RebekahsZ

I want to see these broken mustache bars. Send photos to my cell by text message. 256-366-4685. I put torque seal wax marker on my suspension and drivetrain bolts. This weekend I noticed that torque had been lost on the nuts and studs that hold the diff to the mustache bar. Very awkward location to try to get a socket on. Tightened as much as I could with a big box end wrench. Each nut took about 1/4-turn of torque.

I don't know what brake kit you are running, but it seems the easiest thing to do is to switch to a 280z hub, which doesn't have the material removed between individual studs. I had a supply problem once on 240z hubs so I ran a 240z hub on one side and a 280z hub on the other. I just had to bolt a 280 hub to a 280 rotor and a 240 hub to a 240 rotor and the caliper lined up fine. I think you said something about having a spacer machined to allow you to switch-that still sounds like the cheapest/easiest solution.

Pictures of the broken mustache bar?

Blow that motor on the AMP course, not at home in your driveway! I'm gonna be limping a bad wheel bearing, so you won't be the lone ranger driving a wounded car.

Every diff I have ever had howled like a werewolf.

Send me some pics and a price and maybe we can work something out. I can get them for free from a buddy who has a field full of Z31s, but I don't like spiders and snakes, so if they look good, I might trade you some axles for some dollars.

I like that! What did it cost and where did ya get it? What is the load rating on the tires?

Finally spent some time on this after trashing more tires. Got to a trailer shop that had a good level concrete floor. Trailer tech says all looks good. Shop owner says its my tires and I need to buy new tires from him. I got out my Longacre camber gauge and all are less than 1-degree camber. Then I got the toe plates. Found front axle is straight. Rear axle has 3/4" toe-in. Bingo! New rear axle on order. $400-ouch. Hope this is truly the solution.

I have only had the 28" tires on VHT one night. It was when they were 28X10.5 on the stickiest track on the planet. I dead hooked, so my 60' probably sucked, and on the third pass I broke that axle, so I haven't even looked at the timeslips. Since then I have bought some 28X9s, so perhaps I won't deadhook. I'm setting up for roadracing now, so I won't have a 60' time with the 28s to report for a while-maybe in November. I may 60' worse, I dunno, but to be able to finish the distance in the desired gear is super nice. There's two ends of a track, you know?

I cut the hell out of my fenders, that's how! They fit great with over an inch of clearance to the modified dogleg and 3" to the to of the fender arch. I keep the rear of the car high just to be sure I don't rub. If you want pics, send me a text to 256-366-4685 and I will send you some pics from my cell phone-too much work to post pictures with my low-technology computer skills. The big tires let me leave the unprepped surface pretty hard, whereas, with my 9" wide 26" slicks I was spinning like crazy. I really like the drag radials for landspeed launches and the slicks for launches on VHT. I'm going 28" tall rear tires all the way because with a 3.54 gear, it just works out nicely. I might want a 26" tire for 1/4-mile, but I rarely do the 1/4-mile.

My properly set up CV axles did 12 1/2-mile passes coming out of the hole easy but shifting hard on 275/60/15 drag radials woth 35 psi on unprepped concrete this weekend with no issues.

No. Look at Hawks Third Gen's kit.

I asked my tuner (who drag races and landspeed races) how much oil to put in my f-body pan since every reference seems to have a different number. He said that for the typical street driven car hecrecommends 6 qts. But for a drag or autocross car he recommends 7 qts. And even though i measured my Lokar dipstick multiple times to be the same length as the stock F-body dipstick, after assembly, the two read differently. I'm running 7.

Z went 148 in the standing 1/2-mile and was a crowd pleaser. Was not the fastest Z car there, that belonged to Ken Shupe in a beautiful sleeper LS6 75 280z. Truck is out of the shop. Feels very soft after driving the Z all weekend: soft springs, vague steering, soft clutch pedal, cable throttle as opposed to DBW on the Z. All in all, I guess I thought it would be as nice as the Z, and it's not. But everything works and it hauls ass. I think I'm gonna have to get used to the new normal. Getting the filthy thing detailed today. Then we start getting ready for Z Nats converting the drag Z to a road race Z in less than a month.

I can't find yesterday's video (Day 4). Josey sent me a text and said track was in terrible shape and that he ran 10.30, I wanna say at 146. He's had two mechanical issues so far: a bad tire (borrowed from a buddy) and he slung a serpentine belt. Sounds pretty good to me-I might have that much trouble just on the way to work. I hope he posts lotsa video when he gets home.

Its easier for us to tell you what to do than for us to get off our butts and get into the shop on our own cars.

Day 3 video, SunnyZ shows up on screen at 41:30. Let's cheer him on! 10.07@149mph on first pass. Go Josey, go! Somebody who knows how, add the video links to my posts, please.

That would be a diploditto.

Ditto

Josey went 10.36@112 on first pass at 27:23 on today's YouTube, 10.07@145 at 53:42, and 10.60@142 at 1:21:30. The red car is a blown BBC 9.22@137 at 1:00:40

PM me if you want a part number for an ARP 12x1.5 stud that you can drill/rheem out to. I should have it in my book. You can get them from Summit and be back on the road quicker if you just go to something with a larger knurl. When I press in studs, they are always a little crooked and I have to tweak the alignment with a rubber mallet before a wheel will bolt up. Do they pull in straighter when you use the pull-in method??

I wonder how many manual shift h-pattern cars are there? Not many I bet. He's representing well! 150-damn that's flying. Isn't that parachute territory?

Don't be surprised if the guys you are paying to do your car work aren't any smarter than you are. Sometimes you just get lucky.

So far mine are fine.

If the photos are good, I wouldn't cut that out. I would just hit it with an abrasive pad or flap sander, and put POR15 on it. You might open up a big can of worms and never drive it again.