blueovalz

Maybe packing it in dry ice would be a solution the the liquid n2.

Raw gas smell if you snort the exhaust pipe )woo hoo but no dain bramage( will tell you real quick if gas is entering the chambers and being expelled out the exhaust

Pics only on mine too, but I use a solid mounting using plates.

By the way, thanks for the spring rate replies. I guess the Z is no different than my other cars, just a little more balanced weight (thank goodness).

BLKMGK, The inside of the tire may be rubbing the T/C rod. With my deep backspacing I had a rubbing problem too. Found all the paint rubbed of the rod from the sidewall. That's when I made an aluminum plate "stop" attached under the T/C bolts to limit the travel of the steering arm at full lock.

question: The Z car is the only car I've ever had that (from what I have observed) uses a higher spring rate on the rear springs than the front springs (for a front engine vehicle). Every other vehicle that I've raced or messed with always had considerably higher rate springs on the front. Can anybody out there shed some light as to why the Z car is different?

I beleive that when my friend put one in his old Mustang, It was an OEM crank offset ground. He remarked at how much lighter the newer style cranks were (prior to the grinding) vs the older '70's style cranks.

These problems with drums were 80% of the reason I always converted to disc brakes on every car I ever had from my since '66 Mustang on. If it didn't have it, It was one of the very first things put on.

A letter to AW a few weeks ago said: Nascar is to auto racing as the WWF is to wrestling. Anyway, several years ago Roush Racing put two Ford V6s together for a V12 (just for grins as Ford never used it for anything but research).

Does this mean the brake lights are not presently on, or that the brake light don't work when applied? My first guess based on the info is that perhaps you are really looking at brake lights that are stuck on by a bad pedal switch. I've gotten the brake and normal driving lights mixed up before and this may be what is happening here too.

er...yeah, I mean...yeah, I agree with that (I think).

When I did my swap the L24 weighed in at 425lbs. The '69 block 302 (later models had lighter cranks) I replaced it with weighed in at 389lbs. This weight was with the J302 aluminum heads and an aluminum flywheel with a 2x4 carb set-up (heavier than the single carb set-up).

Would this still be a vacuum leak problem as with the older cars, or were the controls changed?

I had some money to waste one day after having some tires ballanced. Still had a shimmy at a particular speed range. Took the car immediately to the speed shop (he calibrates the machine each and every ballance job, but is a bit more expensive) and found the wheel/tire assemblies were indeed NOT ballanced. The shimmy dissappeared after he ballanced them. This happens more often than I care to mention, and especially so when I get the "Life time" ballancing.

Pardon me if I miss-understood the "swapping of the carrier" post. If it is not obvious to the reader, one may get the impression that a "carrier only" swap is possible between different gear ratios. This is not possible without swapping ring and pinion gears together, and not recommender even with the same ratio due to wear differences between the two cases. Secondly, with the much shorter case of the S13, my guess is that the pinion gear configuration is much different in the S13 diff as opposed to the Z diff, but I may be wrong on this point. Best to get entire case to swap or get a "set" of gears made for that particular case.

SCCA brings up a good point. As far as my personal experience goes, The 300ZX rotors need to be turned down IF using the 280ZX front calipers (floaters). With Toyota calipers this may not be necessary. The Z hubs may have only 2 versions. Then you can add at least one more different thickness with the 280ZX hubs which are also useable on the Z spindle. If the caliper was originally set up with a solid rotor, forget using it with the vented rotors (unless you want to go to all the trouble of machining a spacer placed between both halves of the caliper). I don't know which year Toyota calipers came from vented systems, but these would be the ones needed. Also, with the non-floating calipers (i.e the 4 piston Toyotas) you will need wheel spacers if you are going to use the 300ZX rotors because the rotor hat is designed for floater calipers which are much narrower on the outside (wheel side) in comparison to the 4 pucks. Thus the hat is narrower. I can't remember the spacing needed, I think it was around .75" to 1.00"

I would hazard a guess that it would have to be prohibitively small for it to fit "in" the well. Framing would have to be erected, and it most likely would extend above the back shelf at least 5" or 6". Now if you can make a square peg fit in a round hole.....

The diff in my '92 240SX (same as the S13) is an R200 with 4.10 gear ratio, BUT, the design is much different than the R200 that came in the Z cars. It is very similar is design to the Z32 diffs in that it is much shorter with different mounting methods. Terry

I believe you can use the 4 lug 300Zx rotors, with minor shimming IF you have the 240Z hubs (thinner wheel mounting flange). Do a "search" for front brakes and you will find more info than you could read through in one night. You will also find other options and opinions on what to use. Money, resources, and objective account for a lot of variations in Z brakes.

Dave brings up a real good point. Many of the smaller and even the big hardware stores have a large variety of springs, and a weaker but preloaded spring I think would be much be much better than a stiffer and non-preloaded one.

This is practiced by myself each time I re-assemble the motor, but only because if I do have a leak and have to disassemble the heads or front end, I will not have to deal with the antifreeze and oil issue (especially when you have wonderful pet dog that spends a lot of time with you in the garage). Once I know all the seals and gaskets are holding up, then I add the antifreeze.

The small teeth that are used to engage the gears are most likely worn beyond the normal amount of "flat" engagement area. When they become tappered all the way down to the base, they will do this. Also, the sliding splined cylinder that engages these small teeth can get worn too. These two pieces only overlap about 1/4" or less to egage the gears, so there is not much room for a positive engagement, especially when the wear takes hold. And the popping out of gear accelerates the wear to the point that this gear will become unusable.

Lexan is a lot more forgiving than the Plexiglass cousin. Lexan will bend and rebound where Plexiglass will shatter. I use the Lexan in both side windows and rear hatch window. I even saw someone on a race Z make the entire hatch out of Lexan, and then painted it the color of the car leaving a clear rectangular place to be his rear window unpainted. It will permanently bend in a sheet metal break to about 80 degrees without breaking (will leave a milky white line at the bend), and will conform to slight compound curves, as did the sheet I used on my rear hatch, without heating. Yes, it does scratch easily, and yellowing in the UV environment may happen, but I got a slightly grey tint in my sheet, and the yellowing has never appeared, or at least it is not as noticeable if it has happened. Terry

With 215 tires, you should be able to keep a decent R200 under the car. I'd give the R200 another shot. I was boiling the tires off mine (315/35ZR17) last weekend just for grins for the "out of towners", and was a bit concerned during the run, but it still works just great (and this is the same rear end I raced with). There are a lot of R200 success stories out there.

One question to throw up, many years ago the issue of less rigidity with alloy vs steel calipers (spreading under piston pressure to the rotor) was a concern. Has this been resolved with the current design of calipers, or is this issue of rigidity vs weight still a valid arguement.