blueovalz

Also, if it is truely a vacuum leak, cup your hands over the choke horn, just enough to cut off the air to the carb. If the engine picks up speed, then it's a good bet you have a vacuum leak, if it dies before you even get close to a good seal with your hands, then it may be running too rich. Good quick and easy way to check the carbs A/F mixture at idle.

The first thing that came to mind on this was "Is he using a choke?". If this engine is running real rich (power valve diaphram broke, etc) then a cold engine may run fine until it starts warming up, and then the over-rich condition rears it's ugly head (Like a choke left closed). An open (vacuume leak) port would make it tough just to keep the engine running when cold.

Isn't the 400 simply a stroked 351M anyway? Besides, I believe the aftermarket inventory is pretty slim for these engines as far as intakes, etc.

I think a good cautionary note here is to install these in the same manner as all the suspension bushings, and that is to do the final tightening (compression of the bushing) with the suspension in it's normal ride height rather than at full droop. This way there is no preloading torsion on the bushings (or the rod and arms).

Well, I may be wrong about it because I (my son) lost my factory service manual, and I can't verify the issue of a crush sleeve or not.

It's all in the wrist action! I watched the F1 guys (4 of them) pick up the front of the Ferrari so they could change the nose when the front wing broke off.

I hope I am correct here, but I believe Datsun used a crush sleeve on their pinion. If this is true, the truely correct way of swapping flanges is to replace the crush sleeve at the same time, BUT, with that said, I simple swapped the flange and as you said, made sure there was a correct amount of torque applied to the nut. Do not apply any more than the specified amount. I have had no problem doing this with many miles put on the 3 rear ends I did this with. Can anybody else verify this?

Looking forward to the pics

I have found that there are at least two different pilot flanges for the R200. One uses 8mm bolts and the other uses 10mm bolts. I found this out one day when I had two R200s side by side. The adapter I made (non-JTR) uses the 8mm holes and I had to swap the flange from one differential to the other, to still use my adapter. There may be other differences that I don't know about here, but I'm guessing the "pattern" is the same, just different sized holes.

Hmmm, I guess I need to keep the wife from seeing that last post. We just put in a Viking comercial range, and the ovens are just the right size for.......oh yeah, a big pan of cookies?, right Hun?

Does anyone know if this coating softens when the temperature of the cured part is again raised to the 400-500 degree mark. Specifically, would a brake caliper coated with this be a waste of time, or does the cured coating have a new higher melting temperature?

The smaller (and I use that term rather loosely because, yes, they are smaller, but the difference in strength is not well documented and only the immediate area of the splines is larger, all other parts of the stub are the same diameter) is 25 splines and the larger is 27 splines. If you want to use the OEM stuff, there are options of vented and non-vented. Check out the "search" to get an idea of what this entails. Either OEM option is going to be about the same work as the caliper is going to need a bracket made to locate the caliper in it's correct relaltionship to the rotor. SCCA also sells a nice aftermarket set-up too. I've not used it, but I think quite a few satisfied customers here on this site have.

Just my $.02 worth. You will not regret spending even a large amount of money to upgrade your brakes, but as SCCA said, less than $200 (and it could be a lot less depending on how you do)is cheap "piece of mind". Balanced and properly sized brakes are not only safer, and make the car easier to drive, but the piece of mind of not having to deal with the fade problems is worth the time and money in itself. High HP gets one into trouble faster, and great brakes helps us to avoid the "unpleasant" outcomes of the prior.

BLKMGK brought up a good point about the webbing above the caps. I've only broke one crank the entire time I've raced, and it broke out the webbing before it broke the main caps. In regards to the 6 quart pan; I run this one myself. You can't have too much oil in an engine. With this pan, plus two "full quart" oil filters and hose, I'm running close to 9 quarts of oil through my motor. Lastly, these hermarphodite looking rods that Ford uses in the 302 have gone to 8 grand more times than I can remember in the past, and to 7 grand now days each and every time I take the car out (same rods I've had for 15 years). They have taken their share of ridicule from other "groups" but they do hold up very well (even with their silly 5/16", 24lbs of torque, rod bolts).

Not the Z IRS. With the Z, the suspension is still intact without the driving halfshafts. With the Corvette, if a halfshaft breaks, the suspension is basically "gone".

Ross, your two numbers appear to be correct of F & R. I just checked my spares and these dimemsions were very close considering the accuratecy of my measuring equipment.

Recently I've had to replace the seals in the brake MC. 5 years ago, I could have gone into any auto parts place and bought a rebuild kit, but now, no one stocks it, or the MC without special orders. Halfshafts used to be rebuilt here (for boots), but now its special order too (entire shaft or nothing at all). Whole Z cars in salvage yards (for rear ends, etc) are almost non-existant too. I have decided to hoard some of the parts that have a history of wearing out, before they too become non-existant.

For some reason 66 or 67mm came to mind when I had the REAR wheels made for my Z a while back, and I think the 70-71mm for the front. Terry

Locking up the fronts before the rears with a rear directed proportioning valve is unusual. Have you thought of removing or bypassing the valve altogether, or putting it up front? This peaks my curiousity as to the brake equipment at the rear and also the tire size difference between the front and rear.

Thanks again Jeff.

I'm looking for a set (2 ea) of spindle rods. Are these sold aftermarket (MSA ?) or do I need to go to the Nissan dealer. Also, does anyone have a phone number or URL address for MSA non-the-less? Thanks ahead.

I've never creased nor crushed a pan using a piece of 2x10 under the sump of the pan. I've done this numerous times. Just make sure the edges of the wood extends all the way out to all the vertical edges of the sump. This way the load is transfered to the strongest part of the pan and will not cave in the bottom. a 2x10x10 worked great on mine and I even drilled a hole in it and hung it on the wall for future use.

I wished I could answer your question, but I cannot. I still use the V-belts. I would have the same concerns also, but if there is not other way to R&R, then I would very carfully loosen it while testing to see if anything is spring loaded or not. All I can say is good luck and let us know what the result is.

It is a '74 by the D4****, but don't know the rest. A lot of the truck 302's had larger main caps (very similar to the old HP289 caps), and a 6 quart oil pan if that helps ID this block.

Well, I'll give this one a shot and hope someone will correct me if I'm incorrect. I believe the casting number is under the row of cylinders either at the front or rear just where the waterjacket meets the oil pan rail.