blueovalz

Tom, I have been using a solidly mounted rear end in mine for many years (racing years) with no cracks. My only concern, and I've never brought this up before, is if you use solid mounts on one end (either end) of the differential, then you should use them on both ends. The reason I FEEL this should be the case, is that the solidly mounted end is not really designed to flex, but if the other end is moving around, then obviously the solid mount and/or the aluminum case has got to flex too, and this, to me, is the setting for something to crack or break. Even if the movement is a fraction of an inch, in time fatique will take it's toll. Again, this is only my opinion, but you should go all the way with either one (solid mounts) or the other (flexable mounts), but not both. IMHO mixing is asking for trouble.

Several of us Ford guys have the T-5 behind our 302s. Plenty of room for them.

Speaking for the Ford camp (the boundries of which are fuzzy and vague at times with the other makes of hybrids here), we look forward to any input you can offer, or be offered. Terry

What will really PMO is if he gets some kind of golden parachute (not sure if this is the correct application) of megabucks because he didn't do his job right.

Don't know who or what "Z boy" is. Perhaps our fearless leaders (moderators) can put together a link for all members with the ability to list members by location, name, handle, and car. Kinda a "serch" tool for members instead of Z information (not like you guys aren't too busy as it is)

There's nothing like a well defined vision of your destiny during the journey to make it a pleasure getting there.

Mike; that's funny because I just got done sending him a link to the photos. I'll post it here too for all to view. A brief discription of the photo is under the picture once you click on the photo. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1541023&a=13306335&f=0 Terry

82racecar, I sent you an E-mail with my address on it.

Well, if the ammeter is indeed showing current (ammeter is in series with the terminal and the lead), than you certainly do have a ground somewhere. Let us know what you find. Terry

I'm not good with hieroglyphics (my 12 year old daughter is though) but here goes: Your voltmeter (or VOM) would probably work fine, but you need it on the "dc amp" setting (if you have this), and not voltage. Start with the highest amp setting first, then work down to a useable range, as this will help prevent you from burning out the meter. With all your fuses in, you should read no amperage (except a very small amount for the electric clock and or to keep the radio tuner/clock set if you have an aftermarket radio). If you are reading a substantial current (my guess is anything over a couple of amps) then it looks like a ground is present on one of the circuits. With all the fuses out, there should be no current flowing. Look for changes with each fuse pulled. A big drop in current when a fuse is pulled indicates that circuit had a load on the battery, and should be investigated. With all fuses pulled, you should not have any current flowing at all (or the test light goes out). IF you have a bad cell in the battery, this may cause the battery to go bad regardless of the load. I would also suggest that both + and - wires be removed from the battery (making sure it has a good charge when you do this), leave it over night in the car, and the next day check to see if it is drained again. This will tell you the battery itself is bad. If the battery is still good, you've got some work ahead in finding the ground. Good luck Terry

No great discovery here, but, after some experimenting, I found out that with enough forward velocity, that the fans windmilling will actually put a small charge back into the battery. What this means to me is that the amp draw listed by the manufacturer, is with the car at rest. Once up to speed the current draw become less and less as the ram effect of the air being pushed into the radiator becomes greater with higher speed. This explained the lessened current draw off the battery at speed before I installed the alternator. But at speed I did not need a fan anyway. Just an observation FYI

And to add to what DavyZ said, These light cars just can't use a lot of grunt on low end. once you get established on a run, I've found that a torque range that peaks on the high end is more "useful" than one on the low end (again, for spirited street racing).

How did you go about testing to see if it was a LSD? When you moved the driveshaft (I assume you rotated it), did both axles rotate in the same direction?

( is good, then he won't be distracted by his passenger. (a) is bad, and even if you save him, what about the other folks at the other end of a collision. My boy was given an old honda with the rear seat taken out (because of () and with no radio the first 6 months of driving. So far, no accidents and he now has his own car at the ripe old age of 21.

Holloween has already hit me hard. Terry

quote How does lowering the car make the spring rate change (using up the softer part of the spring), or did I read this wrong?

quote This is true of the original OEM U-joints. The current offering by Nissan is not the same U-joint anymore, and is weaker. When I was going thru U-joints back in the pre CV period, I compared the two. It was quite a difference. IMHO, of the four types I used repeatedly, the OEM was best, then Spicer, then the current crop of Nissan U-joints, and last; the AutoZone PoS.

I'm thinking that was close to the NA version, and that the TT was around 3600 wet. I was quite surprised at the weight gain in the TT.

How does that Twilight Zone music go??

Here it is again. This photo is up-side-down. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1541023&a=13789583&p=55308064

What I used was a Ford power steering pump, that was ever so slightly modified to fit between the driveshaft and the diff (actually the adapter plate to the diff). The electricals will run for 40 minutes (fans, fuel pump, ign) on just the battery alone. With the alternator, tests around town are very positive on keeping the battery up on charge. The pulley ratio is 3:1, but I have a 5:1 set-up if I need more speed. Here is a look at the other side http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1541023&a=13789583&p=55308064. The noise is much less noticable than that hog Holley fuel pump, and yes, a cover will be going over this to keep clothes and fingers out. Terry

I finally got the alternator mounted, and with no weight added to the front end. Thanks for all the alternator wiring info on a previous post. This thing starts charging at 14vdc at about 20mph. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1541023&a=13789583&p=55308062 .

Black, I believe you're right. That,and the fact that the disc still may have a light amount of minor contact with the rotating flywheel/PP with the cluch in (were talking about clearances of only up to about 25 thousandths of an inch here at most. In fact, even out of gear, I can since a very small amount of torque going to the rear wheels with the engine running and the car up (viscous friction?). But my T-5 does the same thing too.

I know this sounds like a stupid reply, but back in the good ole days when I used to correspond with Jim Biondo, he had the same problem. It was the clutch plate that was installed backwards.

You should be fine, in fact, you would probably be OK even with the 5/6" all the way.