blueovalz

I don't know the website, but a posting, on proper brake pad/rotor break-in, as well as driving habits to avoid, appeared on this site some time ago. The information was very informative, and in essence makes the claim that warped rotors can be avoided. Perhaps a search will find it.

Interesting subject in light of a discussion I heard the other day in reference to a new look into why a wing creates lift. I was unable to catch the entire discussion, but in essence, the Bernoulli (spelling?) principal is being questioned, and some researchers claim that the air flow instead follows the top surface of the wing, and in doing so, leaves the wing in a downward direction. This mass of air, accelerated in a different direction (downward) causes an opposite reaction of "lifting" the wing. This discussing immediately brought to mind visions of the F1 wings and the "rooster tail" created in the rain. The water (air) is immediately forced upward as it exits the car, and if this discussion is correct, the equal and opposite reaction to this is to force the car downward. You can make a barn door fly with enough speed, and this would also complement that analogy as well. I know when I was involved in R/C aircraft, I experimented with various airfoils, and the curved top/flat bottom was not the only design that created lift. A symetrical cord worked as well. When you watch a 727 wing double in width due to slats and flaps, and see what the wing's cross section looks like in this configuration, it's not hard to be swayed by this discussion. The researcher's arguments appeared to have merit. Even a flat bladed fan creates "lift" with the proper angle as it spins, so... Perhaps in 20 years we will decide that it will be taught in school that it's a combination of both instead of one or the other, kind of like the wave verses the particle theory of light.

Oh oh , here we go again . What we really need is a forum called "Political Rhetoric."

Trial and error (mostly error I think as I look back). I started out making small parts (scoops, vents, brackets, etc) and then worked my way up to more complicated parts, learning all the while. I've never read a book on doing this stuff, so there is no reference I can recommend, but there have been posts from others recommending reference material. A search may find one. My glasswork is inferior to the professionally done stuff and can be improved upon as far as lay-up and material useage. But I'm probably done with major fiberglass build-up for a while, so the point is moot.

Not surprised at all. A truely awesome looking Z.

I've got a lot of respect for a guy that sequences the photos in their proper order, with the important ones first. What's a car show (or car) without the cupholders

I guess I need tutoring in finding photo galleries as I'm lost when I attempt to find it.

If memory serves me correctly, the rotors will go on without problems, but minor modifications must be performed to use the calipers. The issue that I see here is that the 300ZX rotor, and the 280ZX rotor both can be backfitted to the Z series, but with the 300ZX rotor being bigger than the 280ZX, and the 280ZX caliper works with the 300ZX rotor, why use the dinky 280ZX rotor?

I still do not understand completely the Gleason-Torsen differential action, but after reading this thread, I thought I'd throw this out. My impression of this type of action is similar to the everyday open differential with the exception in the way the gears (spider vs worm) interact with each other. In the normal, everyday, open differential, the spider gears provide the differential action, but because of their design, one gear spinning the adjacent gear offers no "real" mechanical advantage or disadvantage, thus they allow the axle to spin easily relative to each other, AND, with good traction, you have torque applied to both wheels. In the G/T differential though, my understanding is the slope of the worm gear's cut, and their interaction upon the element gears provides for enough of a mechanical "disadvantage" (under torque) that the two halves (axles) no longer spin easily relative to each other. An example of this action is a rack gear in a typical steering rack. It is very easy to turn the pinion gear, and thus move the rack, because the ratio, and hence, the angle that the gear is cut, provides a mechanical advantage (or "gear ratio"). Now let's do the opposite. Move the rack gear in and out and you will immediately recognize it is harder to move the rack gear (and spin the pinion gear) because this previously mentioned mechanical advantage is now reversed and become a disadvantage. Kinda like a big gear turning a small gear verses a small gear turning a big gear. Only this time we are using worm gears which use the angle of the cut helical teeth to provide the advantage or disadvantage. Under load, this difference becomes more pronounced. Thus I contend (and this is the limit of my understanding) that there should be no more (or significant) wear caused by side loading than the OEM open diff has. It's basically a very complicated "open" differential using gear ratios to provide resistance instead of friction plates. The way you change the torque ratio is to change out the gears to a different angle (slope), which then changes the gears ratios, which change the mechanical "disadvanges" these gears have in turning the adjacent element gear. Being you have 6 helical cut gears, shearing the oil under high load, it's no wonder extra heat is produced. But I would think that wear on the internals should be a non-issue, at least in comparison to an open differential. BTW, I've got one in my car, and I love it. I had to change the way I drove out of the corners (set-up), but it was money well spent.

Looks like another quality HybridZ in the making . In reference to the tilt front end: You appear to be pondering how or where to cut the back of the fenders (so that the clip can be tilted up without the rear-bottom of the fender catching the unibody. I feel you should stay with a horizontal line verses the 90-degree cut. Unless the pivot point is below the lowest part of this square cut, then the fender will rubber or "scissor" across the smaller cut off part. Also, unless proper support is offered (which entails added weight) for the long, pointy, unsupported part of the square-cut panel, air resistance will cause it to buffet in the wind. I eventually chose a single horizontal line. I contemplated a horizontal line, aligned with the top of the wheel arch, but this was too visible being the wheel arch became obviously distorted at the point where the panels come together. I finally chose to drop the joint down the back of the wheel arch enough to allow removal without too much rubbing and still keeping the wheel arch-to-joint clean (it's not on a tangent with the arch, and has minimal, or no, angles) and at a lower angle to the eyes making it less obvious or visible: To keep everything aligned in taking the front clip on and off (which has been done at least a hundred times), or up and down in your case, I installed two "ramps" or sloping sheet metal guides that allow the edge of the movable clip to slide down, spread slightly, and into position adjacent to the fixed (cut off parts) portion of the fenders.

Yeah Dan, I'm riding the fence on this. The OEM tail looks good without the spoiler as well, which is why it's "bolt on" and can be removed in about 2 minutes.

She's a good garage dog. Follows me everywhere, but stays out when I tell her. I've never been a dog person, but I'm gonna miss (but not the dog hair) this animal when she not around any more. She even puts up with the bat poop every night (sleeps under the bat for some reason).

Beautiful pieces. Some day I'll grow up and get something like this under my wheels.

Jon, you're correct. The 4-lug 300ZX rotor is bigger than the 240SX rotor by about 1.25 inches (I put the 300ZX rotors on the back of my 240SX). Here is a photo of the OEM 240SX vs the OEM 300ZX rotors: FYI for archive use: I helped a guy use Ross' MM rear caliper/rotor kit using 14" wheels (the old slotted type) . After much measuring, I had the machine shop take the rotors (replaced the Brembo rotors Ross supplied with a cheaper rotor that was not undercut on the inside radius of the friction surface that the pads grip) and turn the outside radius down by 1/4 inch so that the caliper would clear the wheels and stick-on counterweights. The bracket Ross provides had to be modified a tiny bit to move the calipers inward by that amount (1/4"), but he as a very rigid and flexible design in his brackets that allowed this work with little fan-fare. Here is a before and after photo of the bracket's modification to move the caliper inward toward the axle centerline: And then the new "smaller" rotor with caliper and it's relationship inside the wheel:

The small of her back But then, I still end up taking the shot from the rear: Then I walk away :

So if I understand this correctly, you simply wanted to lower your car another 1", which is why you chose the springs you did. I assume the SBC was already in the car previous to the spring change and that you ended up with more than 1" (I'm guessing from your discription that perhaps these springs have dropped the car closer to 2"). The Tokicos (or any strut, even the high pressure ones) shouldn't have any significant effect to the ride height. The springs are the sole determinate in ride height, all other things being equal. If these are OEM type of spings (non-coil over), it sounds like they just plain sent you the wrong springs. It would seem unlikely that the struts were assembled incorrectly as it is a pretty straight forward set-up, and any missing piece would show up as soon as you were to drive the car. Was the rear lowered the same amount as the front? I would jack the car up, and take a look at the springs, seats (upper and lower), and do an overall inspection to see if anything looks obviously misplaced or missing. It would be nice if you could compare the new springs with the old ones. I know this didn't happen, but it almost sounds like an OEM spring that was cut down (low and bouncy)

I've heard (from the pipe itself) the difference between the single and dual header, and yes, the single "sounds" much better. As for the BMW, don't both tubes eventually end up going to the same muffler in the end (at least on my 325i they do).

Nice web site and project! It's good to see a ZX get the once over in regards to custom bodywork. Keep us updated on the progress.

S14....but I'm partial to my '92 SX. With the same effort I've put into my Z, my SX will out handle it. Within a few more years (192K on it and it still runs great) I expect to see some home-made fiberglass body work on it as well.

My 12 ton was marginal, but did the job. I used it for piston pins, bearings, etc. When I finally replaced it with one of their 20 ton units, I was much happier, and it fit within my narrow confines.

I cannot speak directly toward the JTR mounting, but the differential propeller shaft is offset toward the passenger side of the car's centerline due to the differential's design. On my 240 (using the R200) it comes out close to 1", again toward the passenger side. Do I understand your post to say that the offset at the front of the engine is slightly different than the offset at the transmission mount? If so, (and this is a question to all) is the output shaft centerline supposed to line up with the mounting of the transmission? I could also see that it would be entirely possible for the input and output shafts of the tranny to be on completely different axis' being they are separate shafts. Perhaps I'm confusing the matter more than it needs be.

Pretty neat project there. I did have a gentleman some time ago query me about custom bodywork tips for an Opel GT. I wonder if.... Thanks for the link.

Very nice work here. I'm impressed not only with the quality and discipline involved with the mechanical work, but even more so with the preliminary planning, thus insuring that you've got a clear vision on what you want to achieve. All ingredients for a job well done.

Dan; that last post was soooo awesome, I had to do a double take; literally! BIGSHOT357: Here is one photo of the plates I used for mine. I've no regrets mounting it this way, BUT the car is not a daily driver, AND it has helped a lot in added rigidity to the unibody.

This subject is probably the broadest, and most discussed part of the Z of any on this site. Replacement calipers and rotors run the gammit from updating, using OEM parts (300ZX four lug), to full aftermarket set-up (Wilwood and Outlaw), to wierd stuff like Supra MK3 rotors and calipers, and everything in between. The best thing to do is "search" the archives to see what you might like or dislike, be able to afford or not afford. There is a ton of text on this subject. Keep in mind of what you want to do with the car, and the size of wheels you'll use. Lastly, I'm a firm believer in GOOD brakes, and I don't think you can "get carried away" with this part of the car. As far as your specific mention of the 350z brakes, I don't recall anybody attempting this particular swap (YET).