blueovalz

Great progress and it looks great on what you've done with the tilt front!

Was on the license plate of the dark blue S30 doing a drag race at Bristol on Dream Car Garage (Speedvision). It looked to be a turbo motor from the way it left

" Now when was the last time Law Enforcement admitted that there was even a scintilla of question in their interpretation of the events. It would be nice to hear Smith say, "Yeah, there could be question of did he do 205 or did he do 185, or did he do somewhere in between. It really doesn't matter as he needs to be removed from the roads for a while, and we can make 185 stick!. Besides, if I don't get my "catch" over 200mph, I've lost my bragging rights, and that that's what really hurts." Now that's a response I could respect!

I had some POR-15 left in the can not long ago (after finishing a job on another part of the car) and used it on part of the cage. I was somewhat amazed at how well it looked. The brush strokes disappeared (even when using a cheap brush) to a "sprayed on" gloss, and the stuff is hard as nails. I liked it so well that I bought another pint and brush painted the rest of the cage with it.

I know I'll get barbequed on this one, but here is something I've had in the back of my mind, but never fully pursued the idea. Obviously this is something that I conjured up in an attempt to fabricate a suspension that would allow a deep wheel, OEM rear differential and modified OEM arms and such, and allow me to express myself with the tools and welder in my garage. Basically, it's a, "lets see if I can do this, regardless of other options" idea. My brainstorm was to cut the strut tube short, weld a bracket on top to receive a ball joint for an upper control arm, and then fabricate the reinforcement and inner mounting for the upper control arm. Then run a strut from a point inboard of the OEM strut location on the lower control arm, up through the upper control arm, and into the strut tower (where the angular difference would need to be addressed). It was more a study in engineering and of "how different can I get this and still have a suspension based on OEM parts. In the drawing below, (not to scale) I've tried to illustrate my concept. The dark heavy lines (box) are the inner circumference of the wheel showing a max OEM backspacing (dashed line) and a new modified backspacing (heavy solid line). The gray areas are the new additions to the suspension and the dashed lines on the OEM strut tube are the removed portions. With proper accounting for basic suspension geometry and proper reinforcement, I believe this to be a viable option for the masochist in all of us. Presented for your entertainment:

Will wheel spacers be an issue for you?

So....you're serving 4 masters? Well, you know what they say

Have you considered POR-15? I had some left over from a job on another part of the car, and used a brush to apply it to a section of the cage. I was impressed (amazed actually) at how the brush strokes disappeared (even with a cheap brush) to gloss out just as if it had been sprayed on. And it is hard as nails. I've popped it a few times accidentally (with the seat belt harness locks) and it's never chipped. I eventually bought a pint of it and painted the entire cage.

I believe Ford contracted Roush to do such a thing with their aluminum block V6 many years ago (for an experimental V12), and has been experimented with by others since then. Custom crank and cams was the biggest hurdles.

A2Z; Welcome on board

It's great to see another model being hybridized. Great looking job! I hope you've documented the install as I'm sure many will be wanting this reference data for future swaps. BTW, that top radiator hose looks like trouble

To put material like this in the hands of a child should be a crime in itself. Sad and madening.

Yes, so if the government couldn't manage the data leading up to 9/11, what makes one think that they can manage 10X the data post Patriot Act? It was a piece of "feel good" legislation that gave Sheeple the warm fuzzy they craved after 9/11 so that they could believe in their hearts that "something" was being done to stop this. Like the hate crimes bill and every other bill that was passed in the heat of passion rather than logic.

I would ask him why the bearings need to be replaced. I've got 197K on mine ('92), and the bearings appear to be fine. In fact this has been about the best, most maintenance free, vehicle I've had in a while (and I drive it hard!). So, depending on the mileage, I'd take that into consideration.

vs Kind of a broad brush there if we're dealing with individuals. It's very similar to how they group us together as a "common enemy".

All it needs now is a drink beside it.

Good color!

When you cut out part the inner fenders, did you tie it back together with the outer fender (weld) when done? These two "parts" are welded together from the factory and aid in the rigidity of the unibody. The separation of the two (in cutting out the lips for wide tires) may weaken this aspect of the chassis.

When you "prepped it with POR15", what is it you did? Is the mat laid over the POR15? If so, can you elaborate?

You'll have to search for it, but there is one member that I recall that did this rear end swap (entire subframe). He did not have the HICAS feature though. The swap fit fairly neatly under the car, and I remember several photos in that string showing reinforced panels and modifications (I think he used it under an S30 with a Cobra body kit on top.

Ernie is just a bit too humble with his photo collection. Zs, engines, prototypes; he's got a lot of good stuff I've seen over the years and he's always concerned that he may "bore" others with his pictures (no way). Thanks for sharing and entertaining us with your collection.

I'd find out what the bore size is of the OEM master cylinder for the clutch set-up that you want to use (for whatever engine/tranny you chose). Then compare this to the OEM Z (which is 5/8"). If there is a difference (and even a small amount can make a big difference in feel) I'd check into the aftermarket clutch master cylinders (Tilton, Girling, etc) and find the matching bore in them, BECAUSE, these aftermarket master cylinders have an almost identical bolt pattern as the Z master cylinder has (just a small amount of filing in one hole will get it to fit fine) which makes it almost a no-brainer. A small amount of fabrication may be in order for the pedal hook-up as well, but this will be the fact regardless of what you put on if it's not the OEM Z master cylinder.

I believe (and I hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong) all box fans now produced are induction motor fans (brushless)

I've not seen any documented swaps with either of these as well. Both swaps will most likely require the same amount of mechanical skills and time or work, but the 4.9L is the way I'd go if doing this myself (but obviously more information is required, such as weight, dimensions, etc). The long bonnet of the Z almost begs for the "long engine". The KA24de is what I've got in my '92 SX, and even though they are a neat little engine, I can't see giving up 50% displacement over a basically new engine that would have much more visual "wow" appeal (and torque no less). Make a statement and go with the 6!

Thanks for the link!