blueovalz

Dang firewall. But I did enjoy a couple of these. Thanks!

The Kligon mating ritual in it's finest moments.

If that does not work, a torch applied to the plug will loosen it up (breaking it loose while hot).

Thanks for the posting way above. Neat photos

Something that got me past this predicament was that I took one of these NEW nuts, cut it in half (so that you end up with 2 half-moon shaped pieces) so that each side could be pushed up against the GOOD threads of the stub (don't cross thread this step!). Then I placed this assembly (half nut-stub-other half nut) into a vise, and then slowlly turned the stub out of the bisected nut (e.g. unscrewed the stub from the nut). This restored the threads well enough so that I could start a new nut onto the the damaged threads. Be sure to clean up the nut's threads prior to putting them onto the stub. The cleaner the cut, the better it will work.

It was also on a 240SX forum as well.

FYI, the 280zx nuts are the same size/pitch as well with the exception that they do not have the area to peen the nut onto the stub. The ZX nut (which I prefer) is a conventional locking flange-nut.

I am personally attracted to this engine. Perhaps because of the piece of racing history associated with this engine and it's age. It would make a unique swap to say the least.

Kevin.... cute post!

That's one party I wished I'd gone to.

I've never seen any hard data on this subject, but one reason I run the largest oil filter possible, and on top of that, use two filters in parallel is due to my assumption that more paper means less pump resistance or backpressure on the pump. As to what the real effect of an oil filter is to the overall resistance of oil flow in a "blueprinted" motor is unknown to me.

Billet Specialties. I can't remember the model name, but I've not seen it in their catalog recently.

Rubens won, Schumacher finished up 8th (after screwing up running into the back of Sato on a bad pass attempt and then locking up and having his brother rub the side planes of his front wing all over Schumacher's rear tire). Kept waiting for that tire to go flat, but it lasted till the finish.

What about that post not too many days ago about the Vetec I-4. Looked reasonably priced and very light with respectable power. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=26689

The Red F1 team won. the race, team championship and driver's championship.....FINALLY.

IMHO a good street spring rate window of 160lb-200lb should give you what you want, but this will only exasperate the current problem of bottoming out on the curves unless you work with the anti-sway bars as well.

I agree. I wished I had gone over the underside as well as some of you guys have. Keep updates and pictures coming.

I had to laugh on the post by Zachb55. I took this car down to the local SoloII races a few weekends ago. This guy that was racing a late model RX7 that had be set up very well (professionally done with some turbo mods as well) looked at my car and said "it's only money." It was one of those moments when you didn't know what to say . I probably had half the money in my car that he had in his. I didn't know if he meant I threw a bunch of money at the car or if he meant is looked like I had. Anyway, it kinda bothered me 'cause my money spent on this car goes to support the local salvage yard and body shop supply stores, and not the local speed shop.

I see!. Nice to have it connected to the OEM gas door! It looked smaller from the photo (I was guessing 8-10 gallons at most). Good job.

But this was part of my confusion. The turbo ZX axles did not have the nuts peened onto the axle. Instead they used a conventional locking nut that can be removed without damaging the threads. So why were the threads all screwed up? (wrong axles?)

Interesting fuel cell shape and location. What is the capacity, and why did you chose the configuration you chose.

Don't know yet. I've actually got a paint booth arranged for, so I hope to be squirting some paint on it soon.

Check these two links or strings for more information on "other" swaps http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=25049&highlight=corvette http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6617&highlight=corvette

If no one chimes in here, I'd suggest removing a a shaft, it's axle nut and companion flange and carefully count the splines. One question pops to mind though, and that is "why were the threads trashed?" This thread problem is typical with the "peened" nuts that were flattened against the axle stub "flats" to prevent the nut from backing off, but on ALL the ZX turbo cv jointed shafts I've ever seen, the nuts were changed to the more traditional locking nut that does not trash the threads when this nut is removed (perhaps an impact wrench's high speed removal of the nut caused this). There is only a 2 spline (?) difference between the 280z and the 280zx turbo splines (turbo being smaller or less count). I do not know if this difference was carried through onto the ZX line or not (turbo vs non-turbo). If your non-turbo axle nuts are peened onto the axle "flats", then I'd be inclined to believe this difference may exist.

I believe there has been some amount of success using the R200 for the levels of torque you write of. Obviously there are other factors such as launch style and tires. Use of the CV jointed ZX turbo shafts have been helpful as well, especially when involved with higher shaft angles on launch (severe squat).