blueovalz

Jon, I misled you on that pin dimension. The spindle pins are about .630" and not the larger dimension I stated earlier. It would appear a 3/4" bolt would work in threading the spindle pin receiver. There is gobs of room in this area to install rod ends far away from any brake components.

Neat commercial. This was posted a while back if I recall.

This is correct. The early 240, as I best recall, used a small booster, and replacing it with a 280 booster will work, but places the edge of the booster within about 1/4" of the clutch MC (at least on my application). The ZX is even larger in diameter, which would then interfere with the clutch MC. The choice of the brake MC bore diameter may depend on the caliper bore cross-section of the OEM calipers verses their replacement (4 puck Nissan in your case). If the cross-section is larger on the replacement calipers, then replacing your MC with a larger bore will help return the OEM "feel" to the brakes. Other than the ZX MC swap, I've not heard of any other being used.

From what I can see here, it is similar to the GM or Ford supercharger except that this is powered (or spun) by 3 DC motors. Interesting approach. I've seen many motors similar to the 3 shown in the photos (I use one very similar as the motor for my rotating spark gap on my tesla coil). If these are permanent magnet motors I would be concerned about underhood temperatures and it's effect on these motors.

I like!!!

Looks to me to be a little soft on power, but it may be because of the fuzzy logic used in the ECU. Even then, I bet it beats the stuffing out of any other motor it's size.

Sounds like a classic case of MC or SC failure. Loss of fluid prevents the clutch from disengaging, and thus makes it very hard to shift into gear from a stop. Just about any transmission can be up or down shifted without disengaging the clutch once the vehicle is moving (but timing is everything). But from a dead stop into a gear is going to be very hard if not impossible if you've got air in the system (you'll probably notice the car tries to roll forward as you push the shifter into gear because the synchros are trying to turn the gearshaft in the tranny). You lost fluid, and that's where you need to focus your attention.

dazed and confused My brake system is only slightly smaller than you are using, and the 280 booster works very well. Are you needing better performance from your booster or are you wanting to try another type of booster and MC?

While it's on my mind, I would consider, if you can swing it, spreading the distance between the rod ends verses closing them in on the strut base. The closer these to rod ends are, the more leverage any torque or twist applied to these rod ends. My thoughts (thinking aloud here) are to space these rod ends away from each other to the maximum allowable. The OEM bushings are approximately 1.5" long. This would then mean you could use a 3/4" spacer between the strut base, and the rod ends. An unresolved issue was the spindle pin. Mine measured .780" when I was investigating this issue. The pin could be turned down on a lathe to .750" for the use of 3/4" rod ends, or another option of tapping the ID of the spindle pin receiver, and thus screwing some grade 8 bolts into the base as a replacement for the spindle pin, but once this was done, you would have to do it again if you were to ever replace the strut tube. They would need to be at least 7/8" or bigger to be able to tap out the threads to full depth.

If'in you're wanting some comments, I'll throw a bone out. When I did my front control arms, I used two methods, of which I liked the latter of the two. These methods I feel could be used on the rear as well. One method was the threaded tube as you've mentioned. The other was a threaded stud (actually, a 3/4" bolt with the head cut off. I preferred the stud because They were very strong, long enough to thoroughly weld them to the arm, and any welding done on them would be away from the threads where as the threaded tube, if not careful, would end up having some of the threads ruined if the weld penetration went deep (I prefer good penetration in cases such as these). I've considered doing the same thing as you mentioned, and in the case of the rear arms, their larger cross-section of tubing (after the ends have been cut off) probably warrents the use of a threaded tube instead of the stud. I would like to be corrected here if I'm wrong, but the only thing that would cause the rod end's threaded shaft to "take a pounding" would be a stiff sway bar? I say this because all suspension side loading should be a tension/compression stress at the rod ends, but I am unsure about the torque loading upon acceleration. Does the movement of the wheel pulling the car forward cause the front rod end to compress while placing tension on the rear rod end, or does this action or force cause shear loads to be developed on the rod ends instead. In other words, does the wheel want to rotate about a point centered in between both of the rod ends, or does the wheel wish to simply roll forward placing shear stresses on the rod end shafts?. If it is the former only, then the sway bar will be the only factor in placing lateral loads on the threaded shaft of the rod end.

Normally I wouldn't tell this on myself, but after a week of driving a rental car (auto tranny), I returned home, and at the airport parking I got into my Z, came up to the lot's corner, leaned on the brake pedal, and NOTHING (repeatedly, each time I hit the pedal). Fortunately I was going slow and a quick pull of the emergency brake kept me out of trouble. Then It dawned on me that I was pressing the clutch pedal instead of the brake. How embarrassing .

Gad you were able to get on here and tell us your bad news personally. Now time to do all those things you wanted to the first time, eh?

This then is the tail lights of the HZTDV (HybridZ Tee-shirt Delivery Vehicle)? To get the T-shirt's business and tail lights going at the same time says a lot. Coming to your town soon

Looking really good Tim. It's great to see the progress on your car as you proceed through it. I enjoy your unique approach to the tail lights. Any more overall pics to add to this?

Can't answer that final question, but I hope someone chimes in here that can. I'm not familar with your PP and disc, but with that said I am puzzled that you are required to use full travel AND apparently, a lot of pressure to operate your clutch. Normally it is one, or the other, but not both (except for poorly designed systems, or those badly mismatched). I'd look over your system one more time and make sure there is nothing obvious that is causing problems. I'd also talk with the manufacturer and get the specific movement required of the throwout bearing to fully disengage the clutch, or what the SC movement should be with the recommended pedal travel. Then you can compare this to what your system is doing. As you describe it in your first post, you'll have a worsening problem with any increase in MC size. It makes me wonder if something is not binding up on the way from your foot to the clutch.

I've only solidly mounted a Z diff, but again, the gear noise is a little more pronounced. Not so bad though that I find it objectionable, but that's a subjective viewpoint.

Don't you love it when a good plan starts coming together? Thanks for the pic.

If the OEM MC is 5/8" and this is heavy (understood by me to mean a bit stiff or hard to push being the firewall is flexing), then installing a larger diameter MC will only exasperate the problem. Pedal movement will shorten with a larger MC, but pedal pressure will increase appreciably. A 7/8" bore (with no other changes made at the slave cylinder) change from the OEM 5/8" bore will double the pressure at the pedal, which means even more firewall flexing. I am a bit surprised the OEM bore is a problem. I run a 3/4" bore (but I cannot say what the comparable bore of the hydraulic thowout bearing is) with a stiff Long style PP using only a light to moderate effort. It appears from your post that with the statement of the pedal being all the way up, that it can be assumed that you are also using full pedal travel to disengage your clutch. Is this a new problem since a part change-out? In regards to the lines themselves, I did as mentioned above and cut, installed an 5/16" fitting, and re-flared the tubing and all worked fine.

Spotfitz, The reason I did not use the sharpie mounted in the swingarm was because the flare moves toward and away from the swingarm as I rotate the arm around the circumference of the wheel opening. This required the sharpie (or any other marking instrument) to be able to slide in and out of the tool, which was a bit troublesome. The laser, when correctly aligned, shoots the beam perfectly so that the wheel opening will always remain perfectly round, regardless of the side contours, when viewed straight-on from the axle. This also allows quick reference by moving it from one side of the car to the other quickly to verify symetry between openings. It is important to note that the car must be at a level ride height, and the front wheels MUST be pointed straight ahead for these openings to be symetrical. Jhaag, The reference to the constant radius was as viewed from a tangent of a radial from the axle. It is roughly a 6" radius curve from the door skin, up until the tanget of this curve meets the tangent of the curve (roughly 4") that then sweeps the opposite direction around the outside edges of the tires. These two curves (as viewed as a cross-section of the flares front contour) create sort of a "S" curve, and remain the same from the bottom of the front of the flare up until they blend into the top of the quarterpanel where the panel's top is essentially a flat transition from the roof pillar down the the 4" radius curve that again wraps around the edges of the tire.

Make sure the primaries are open before attempting to open the secondaries. Closed primaries lock down the secondary linkage. I have seen the base of the manifold interfere with this linkage as well.

Besides laying out perfectly straight lines on a contoured body, a laser pointer can be very useful for creating perfect wheel arches on custom bodywork or fenders (quarterpanels). I spent about 2 hours fabricating an adjustable arm that bolts onto the hub and holds the laser pointer.

How would this be different from the practice of sectioning the strut tube, say on the bottom half of the tube, as some on this forum have done. It would seem to be a viable alternative provided the design between the two were similar in that the lower control arm continued to provide some lateral support in the immediate area of the spindle itself. If I'm not mistaken, Datsun slipped the spindle onto the bottom of the strut tube and then welded them together only at the bottom, under the strut tube boss.

Keeping good salvage in a chicken house? (that's what they appear to be) Curious, I wonder if the chicken waste that covers the floors in these houses has any bearing on the intensity of the fire, especially when combined with flamable substances usually associated with auto parts.

Sounds like good news, and future pictures as well

Very nice indeed. A twin turbo carb motor with respectable boost! Thanks so much for sharing the information on this Z. This is something I see myself doing once I'm finished painting my primer queen. It's especially nice to see the sanitary job you've done without using a hatchet to gain the necessary clearance.