Thumper

I have had a problem with the car reving past a certain rpms. I just installed a msd 6a instead of a hei module. It still does the same thing. I have played with the dwell settings and they do make it better. At 75% it will not rev past 2800 and at 50% it won't rev past 3700. At the higher rpm the car's tachometer will start to drop off but the tach in megatune will not miss a beat so it is getting a good clean signal just not sending one. I have my 1k ohm 1/4watt resistor as a pullup as needed. I am running megasquirt v3.0 with a flyback and a relay board. Any ideas? Thanks

Yes you are more likely to get cross-fire that way but magnecores have really good suppression. Only time he might have trouble is if they get really dirty. BTW the best way i've found to clean wires is use wd-40.

Is that a 6th horse or a house? My eyes aren't so good in my older years. Damn nm i'm only 24 the doctors did warn me when I was a kid not to play with it so much:flamedevi

Yes I have two bolts holding down the hei and both are going through the sheet metal and touching the metal rings. Also I have the terminal W grounded to the ignition coil bracket bolt. Thanks any other ideas?

Ok I have got it running better. But still not driveable. I have changed the dwell to 50% and it now goes up to about 3k rpms. No matter what I do it will not rev higher. I have changed the dwell, inverted spark, changed the timing, locked the timing, and changed fuel values but it will not rev past 3k. When I hook up my timing light, timing seems to be right at idle but the higher in the rpms you go the more the timing retards. Then right around 3k rpms and 10 degrees my timing light starts to not show a spark. So it seems like the module is trying to either fire it at the wrong time or just plain ain't working at that rpm. I have wired the coil and module up perfectly. Just as it was decribed in the sticky. I even installed the condensor. I hate letting a car win so if necessary I will buy a msd box which I know for 100% I can hook up right. Any suggestions thanks!?

I just installed megasquirt v3.0 into a friends 260z. It won't rev past 1500rpms I am using a HEI 4pin module. It starts perfectly but after 30-45seconds of running it will slowly die. The module and coil are very hot. Is it my dwell settings? Would should I use. I have a 1k resistor between the fidle and tps 5v ref. Besides dwell what else could cause this? Thanks for your time.

Congrats on the first time. Are all talon tsi's 4wd or just some like eclipses? If you can get a good enough clutch you should be able to get the 60fts much lower. Sub 2.0's if you have 4wd. With 97mph you should be at low 14's. My local track doesn't let me have a passenger ride with me. Even when I was running 15's. Good luck

Just click on the "INSERT IMAGE" button. Like so and etc...

I have used them and they have good product and halfway decent prices but THE WORST customer service. They told me my part would be delivered for almost 2 weeks and I only live 10 minutes away. I finally had to go and pick it up in the back of my buick. Then I get it and I find out I do not need the tranny (my fault) and now they have been promising me for 4 weeks they would come pick it up. I have talk to manager after manager and nothing has come of it. I will probaly have to take it back to them. Also when I talked to them last they said they didn't have the engine and that the website is update monthy. I haven't seen it change in over 3 months. I bought a mazda tranny from them not the l28. I would be cautious if I were you if you want to deal with them.

It is most likely a leak between the afm and the turbo or turbo to the tb. So I would check all the connections/clamps and all the hoses coming off the pipes.

Other than clogging up cats and o2 sensors leaded gas won't hurt your engine. And if my memory is correct you don't have either currently so you are good to go.

From my personal experience with my holset. I had the internal wastegate ported very very much to the max. I would have more boost creep at 12psi almost to 15psi. But when I ran it at 20psi I had no boost creep. So that tells me that the wastegate wasn't big enough at low boost but was at high boost. Any thoughts on this?

I believe this would be better suited in the non-tech forum. Also fill up the tires and see if they leak again. I've had kids once or twice lower my tires. Luckly they didn't slash them.

If you can't find them in the wiring harness try electronic parts outlet. Its a local store down on fondren. Try yahoo yellow pages and give them a call and see if they have 5-6 ohm 25 watt power resistors.

85mph same as the non-digital

Actually our turbos are in more of a need of a turbo timer than newer turbos. This is because ours are only cooled with oil. Newer turbos have oil and water cooling. This helps the turbo keep from cooking the bearings after a hard blast through the gears. But you don't NEED a turbo timer. All you have to do is after you have run half-way hard is idle it for about 60 seconds and then turn it off. If you run your car hard alot then this can and will get annoying so its worth getting a $90 turbo timer. Also with the apexi turbo timer you can input your wideband into and it will display your a/f ratios. So you can save on getting a gauge for your lc-1 or lm-1 or whatever brand wideband you have. Heck it even has a volt meter in it so you save yourself on another guage.

You would hook up the 360 degree one. It is green on the l28's. Good luck

Didn't think about that. I agree there should be exceptions. But only at the moderators discrestion.

I think you should pull timing after 100kpa. I think this in terms of absolute pressure and not boost. At 150kpa which is roughly 7.25psi for me and 10.5psi for you I will roughly have the same amount of air going in as you. So our timing tables should be able to be the same. Now if you were tuning off of boost pressure then yes you would be pulling timing at a different time then me but since we are running map no need. I hope this makes sense. Also I found you can run alot more timing under vacuum then you are running. The next chance I get i'll post my timing map.

I believe pnypwr has a 300zx with a lincoln v8 in it. So it is kindof Z related. But I agree we should keep the timeslips to a z only thing.

Do not plug this up. If you do you will blow your oil seals and pop your oil dipstick up. You can either just leave it open which will through oil places, or you can put a filter on it but air is coming out so it won't help that much. Or you can run it to a ventilated catch can. I know someone who ran it with just a filter on it and never had any trouble.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102244 Look at the second picture/diagram. Good luck

Oops. Well welcome to the club. Don't worry i'm a member. Glad you got it running though. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106774&highlight=worse

I got the same using a 240z spec of 162.8 inches and a distance of 92,955,820.5 miles.