Thumper

Well my car is running perfectly. And I don't have a msd tach adapter at all. I am hooking the wires up to the tach output on the msd box itself. Thanks though.

Umm I kept waiting for him to mess up and take himself out and nobody else. Don't get me wrong I love to drive fast and take my own share of risks but not on the freeway with heavy traffic.

Ok I was driving the other night and it got cool at night, a good 15 degree drop, and of course my car picked up some power. Then as the night went on the temp stayed the same but humidity went up by 30% and power went down. So my question is there a formula for calculating how the temperature AND humidity can effect your power? It would be interesting to see how big of a factor humidity is. My guess is it will not be near the difference the temperature can cause but still significant. Also is the only reason the humidity hurts power is because instead of getting 100% air you are getting water molecues mixed in so less amount of air in the same volume? Or is there other reasons why humidity effects power? Thanks

Just got my new project up and running; with details and pics soon to be posted. It is a 280zx n/a non-digital dash running megasquirt and msd 6al. Everything is working to plan except I have no tachometer. I have hooked both the tach output on the msd and 4 other wires coming out of the stock wiring loom to every possible combination with the same wires wire with some sweet sparks to boot. I have hooked up the black/white wire to the - and + terminal on coil, the blue wire, white wire, etc... I think what I'll end up doing is running the tach output wire on the msd to the correct wire right behind instrument cluster. I have never had much luck with wiring diagrams so does anybody know what color and where I can find this wire or did I not try something earlier that should make it work? Also I have heard I might need a tach adapter but I was under the impression that you only need a tach adapter if your tach works but doesn't read correctly, but with mine it doesn't read at all. Thanks

Ru Sure

Ok I thought tach adapters were only for if you can get a signal but it reads way too high because of the multiple sparks at low rpms? I cannot get any movement on mine tachometer. But if a tach adapter converts the signal from one to another so that the tachometer can read it then that is what I need. Thanks

Just got my new project up and running; with details and pics soon to be posted. It is a 280zx n/a non-digital dash running megasquirt and msd 6al. Everything is working to plan except I have no tachometer. I have hooked both the tach output on the msd and 4 other wires coming out of the stock wiring loom to every possible combination with the same wires wire with some sweet sparks to boot. I have hooked up the black/white wire to the - and + terminal on coil, the blue wire, white wire, etc... I think what I'll end up doing is running the tach output wire on the msd to the correct wire right behind instrument cluster. I have never had much luck with wiring diagrams so does anybody know what color and where I can find this wire or did I not try something earlier that should make it work? Thanks

What you need to do for the first problem is fine the msns_extra.ini settings file that came with the firmware download. It should be in the folder you extract. You copy and past the file into your megatune folder. This way the firmware you downloaded into the ecu is the exact same as the one it looks for when you open up megatune. About the second problem umm good luck? Are you sure you aren't moving the box ever so slightly and a connection is coming undo. Just making sure.

sleepr sleprz dusted so cool = j/k to cool = j/k whistlr = turbo cars 2fas4u ketcup =catch up

It would have to be my custom mounted JTR radiator, and custom mounted intercooler. It might be original for a good reason though.

Looks like tripple mikuni's, 6-2-1 headers, and mallory plug wires. It says built internals do you know the specs? If its the 10:1 that most people do should be good for a high 14's car. Yeah the bumper/rear valance is too square for my taste. Good luck with your build and make sure you know what engine you want before you start. Many a time including myself do hybridz members change what engine we are going to put into our cars mid project costing us some extra money. The most popular swaps in our z's, in no particular order are... l28et (280zx turbo), sr20det (silvia), rb25-26det (skyline), 2jzgte-7mgte (mk4-mk3 supra), 302-351 (Ford motors), ls1-lt1-350-383-454 (Chevy/Gm motors)

Easy for us... Yes. Easy for SuperDan... Probably Not. Plus I think we have enough buttons on top. Although buttons are like gauges you can never have too many:flamedevi

Sounds like somebody is having almost as much fun as me. I think its either a broken camshaft or something with the cam gears or timing chain. Open up the oil cap and check to see if both cams are rotating if they are then its must likely the cam gears are wrong. Good luck

Well knowing my memory he probably wasn't in csp. Not sure what group he was running then maybe CM. Thanks and back to you local hybridZ forum.

What about comparing beading to flareing. Would I be right in assuming beading would be stronger than flareing? The same company for the same price offers flaring or beading.

Damn maybe I should just keep my mouth shut I'd seem smarter that way:flamedevi So Reverse is up-left. And is the zf a 4-spd or 5-spd tranny Either way 3 gates.

Here is the website. http://www.mittlerbros.com/ Its under sheet metal tools. I wonder if you could just use a socket. My sockets are round on the end so I could just find a perfect size and get out my good old hammer.

Wow never heard about that. I knew someone running in csp at the national level (I think) running a really stripped early miata. It was fully stripped and didn't even have a front windshield. I remember him telling me it weighed 1800lbs and the stock weight was 2250 on those. He might not have been running at the national level though so is this a local rule kindof enforced are is it in the rule book that is too long to read at the moment? Thanks and good luck.

I always wondered what those things could weight if fully stripped. If it could get below 2900lbs that would be nice. Aren't they 3300lb stock? Even when the car has stock suspension are you going to run in BSP? And then see how the suspension does. Or are you going to run in BS then upgrade to bsp when you have to you? I just read that the stock Z base model weights 3188lb. And some people have removed 300lbs. So looks like 2900lb should be doable. Maybe even 2800lb if you go more drastic.

I think for 350hp you would want more. I have a large npr and was running 22psi with holset turbo and the inlet temps stayed below danger levels. But I know if I pushed it any more I would have had to upgrade mine. So atleast if you can trade someone or come out close upgrade to the large npr or go with a custom one.

I stand corrected. Ok ok I like the car now. That is a really tight spacing between 1st and 3rd, and 2nd and 4th. I thought they had it in park but they have it in 1st gear. Thanks i'm going to go buy it now. Damn just checked my bank account NM.

Lovely car. I have never seen one in person so I can't say how beatiful they actually are though. Only bad thing is its an auto. My personal preference is except for a full on out drag car auto's suck and sticks rule.

Another thing I would do is check hybridz classifieds, zcar classifieds, autotrader, and ebay for halfway similar cars. There might not be just like yours but you can get a good idea at the current market for that kind of stuff.

My guess is you are going to be closer to 350hp than 300hp. Prob no higher than 370 though unless you have a pretty wicked cam. Let us know what you put down. Good luck.