Thumper

The monte looked like it was running a high 11's all motor and low 10's on the juice. The z was running mid 12's and I believe they were running all out on the 4th non-nitrous run or atleast most of the way.

Fuel pressure at idle should be around 30psi. Under no vacuum 37psi. First I would put a screwdrive up to every injector and make sure they are all firing. If they aren't then I would check your wiring. Find the injector that isn't working and switch the injector cap with another injector cap that is working. If that injector starts working then its the wiring if it still doesn't work then its the injector. Then you should with the car in the on position get 12 volts at every injector. If you are getting that then you need to trace the other wire all the way back to the ecu and make sure it hasn't been cut or grounded out. It could also be a clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, or fuel pressure regulator since you are saying you only have 20psi. So check those also.

My guess would be overheating. If it was modified then yes detonation/pinging. Should be just take off head get it cleaned and shaved put in new head gasket and good to go.

Doh yeah warren's right. I've used the exhaust manifold before and never had troubles but you are "suppose" to use the last intake manifold bolt. Much stronger:flamedevi It looks like the last exhaust manifold bolt got broken off in there. You will need to drill and retap the hole in order to not have any leaks if you take off the intake and exhaust manifold.

The two best places to lift is the bolt the holds the exhaust manifold on in the rear and the bolt near the water outlet or power steering pump. As long as its alteast a 12mm bolt and you can get good thread depth with it it should be able to hold. Good luck.

I think it was 2 months and they left alot of things to last minute that they could have done 2 months earlier. (Wiring ecu and car, fixing body panels, installing fuel cell, planning it better, etc...) No offense but 4hrs should not be a big difference when you have had 2 months to build a car and at first you thought you only had 3 weeks. It was poor management of the build that lost that race not the engine or circumstances.

No need. If this car was built properly and the engine tuned correctly the z would have been just as fast as the monte if not faster.

What did you have your lumpiness set at? I put my way down so that it would be smoother. Although this way it takes longer to tune it.

Yeah I'm running 440cc's on my l28 so they are manageable. Although at idle the lowest I can get them is 1.8msec before they start to flutter. That is usually 12.5:1 so i'm keeping it around 12:1. Boy do I love autotune. My last car I tuned with a lm-1 gauge and just played with ve table for hrs. This time put in my afr's I wanted. Told it to adjust all my ve table except below 1300rpms and then drove for awhile. Changed my boost from 6psi all the way through to 15psi and then presto a perfectly tuned megasquirt. Although I am cleaning up the ve table alittle cause their are some big jumps mostly at high boost. Now I just need to install my tach and put in a 3.5 rear-end and i'm good to go.

Yeah I just went driving and put in .5 volt on a 0-5v wideband and it still tuned it to my afr table.

What was your weight and mods in your zx? 9.2 should be mid 14's which is pretty good for a non-intercooled 10psi stock zx. But slow for a fully built intercooled 10psi stripped zx. Get my point?

Does anybody know if the ego switch point is muted when you turn on the afr table? I've searched msefi and can't get a straight answer. Thanks

Yeah that was sweat. Didn't know the slick slipped so much. Just think about this. At 8000rpms the crank is rotating 133.33 times per second. Thats 1.33 per milli second and you can actually see every cylinder firing. That my friends is cool in my book.

Earlier I was able to view them 2 hrs ago but now I can't. So it looks like there server went down.

They told you to install two of them so that if one fails you can hook the other one up as a back up?!? That is sad but funny. Me on the other hand have never had any of my msd's go out. I even have had the current msd I have on 4 different vehicles and never a problem. The bad thing is I've heard lots of stories about crane electronics as well.

With my 280zx with just an intake and exhaust I ran a 15.6 @ 85mph with more to go. It sounds like either your lifters are too loose or possibly your cam is off a tooth. But if your cam was off a tooth you would have much lower compression. It could also be ignition miss or lack of fuel at high rpms. You should be able to get into the low 15's atleast with those mods.

Glad it was something you can fix quickly. A couple months ago I went to the track with my 260z and had a similar problem. I drove it there and ran two runs but then all of sudden it ran rough and would barely start. Then it wouldn't start. Finally I took off my dizzy cap and the rotor screw came loose. Boy was I pissed that I lost 3hrs of track time because the screw came loose. Don't you hate the little things:flamedevi

I at first ran jacob electronics for all my spark related stuff but had to return 4 of them over a 2yr period. And will never buy their products because of that. Since I've switched to msd I've never had a problem. I have heard of one of my friends having problems and then there was a few on this board but I wonder if its just normal wear and tear or actually poor quality. I have always used the rubber mounts that came with box to mount it though and I know my friend who had the problem did not use them. Did you use the rubber mounts? Now that I think about it most of the problems I have heard about have been with the 7a's or digital versions. Anybody hear about alot of problems with that 6a's?

Looks like your Z will be that much more reliable. Hopefully this will help with worring about stuff breaking or going wrong during the run so that you can drive the car at its full potential. Good luck.

I would say bbc but it would be too heavy for a track car. So either sbc or 2jz in my opinion. Maybe GN if they engines aren't that heavy.

I think that having the list would cure some peoples curiousity and confussion on why someone was banned BUT in the long run it would cause people to get offended and want to argue about such things. I have been a member awhile and have seen only a few people banned and every single one of them was valid in my opinion. Plus I don't think an admin has banned someone without telling us why (except with the person who was banned yesterday, but I believe all will be told when the time is right).

Good fuse? Usually located somewhere on the back of the radio itself. Are you getting it to turn on but no sound or does it not even turn on?

Bump