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http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/01ISBspecs.html 01-02 Cummings turbo diesel Automatic

My local junkyard will sell them to me for $75 but usually I can talk him down alittle. And I figure I shouldn't need adapters since I know a few people who have run cv's without adapters and have had no problems.

I am looking to upgrade my axles. So far as I see it I have two options. Upgrade the u-joints on my current axles to spicers $50 x4 or upgrade my axles to turbo cv axles $60-75 total. What would be stronger? What one would last longer? Thanks

Fuel pump, electrical connectors, spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, coil, dist, timing, fuel injetors, etc... Not being a smart *** just thats all it can be start checking.

This is how I installed my holset turbo. First you will need a hy35w turbo. You can use an hx35w but you will need a spacer and it will take forever to spool. When you order/get the turbo, make sure you get the 45degree exhaust pipe and v-band clamp. The v-band clamp is $40 at dodge and the pipe is alot more. The supplies you will need are: Holset hy35w turbo (Ebay, Junkyard, etc...)$250-$450 m12 x 1.25 thread tap (Local hardware store)$10 2.75" x ?" Intercooler coupler (?= whatever size pipe you will use)$20 3" mandrel bent u-bend piping (Summit, Jegs, JcWhitney)$25 ?" mandrel bent u-bend piping (For pipe from turbo too intercooler)$25 Mig/Tig Welder (Friends, Muffler shop, Sears)$450-$3k RTV Sealant (Anywhere)$7 O2 Sensor Bung (Auto parts shop, Muffler Shop, Ebay)$6 4" Air Filter (Summit, Jegs, JcWhitney, etc...)$50-70 Stock Turbo/Manifold Gasket (Nissan)$20 Large c-clip Pliers (Tool Place)$15 2 copper washers for oil feed line (Auto Parts store)$6 Die grinder/Dremel (Tool Place)$20-100 Stock 280zx turbo Wastegate Actuator Unbolt the clamp that holds the center section to the exhaust housing. Remove the c-clip that holds the compressor housing to the center section Remove the wastegate actuator and cut off the bracket that held the actuator to the compressor housing Rethread the oil feed hole with the tap and then turn center section upside down blowing all shavings out and then run some thick oil through it to get the leftovers Port the stock wastegate hole as big as you can get. Over 300% larger. Make it so the the wastegate puck barely covers the hole and make sure the hole is even all the way back and does not taper down. If not done enough you WILL have boost creep problems and will have to take the turbo off and redo. Put new manifold gasket on and mount exhaust housing. Put the center section on the exhaust housing and lightly tighen the v-band clamp. Rotate center section untill the drain tube lines up with the bolt holes. Slide the compressor housing onto the center section and clock it at the position you want it. Mark the compressor housing and center section. Remove housing and center section from exhaust housing. Line the marks up and install the c-clip removed earlier. Reinstall the center section with the compressor housing attached. Make sure everything is lining up correctly (oil drain pipe, compressor outlet, and you have enough room for you pcv valve) Tighten the v-band clamp moderately. No need to torque it down it is deceiving on how tight it is Put a light coat of rtv sealant on oil drain tube and install the bolts. Bend stock oil feed line so that it is in the correct location and install the bolt with new copper washers. Using the 45 degree exhaust pipe and 3" mandrel bent pipe make a downpipe. You will need to have the 3" pipe expanded to fit the 3.5" exhaust pipe. But only for an 1" or 2" then it can be 3" the rest of the way. Make the intercooler pipe and install it with the coupler Make a bracket for the stock wastegate actuator either Tig welding it to the compressor housing or mounting it to the intake manifold. Make sure it is a straight angle and the actuator can extend fully. Install 4" air filter and prime the turbo with oil Enjoy the ride! This is my first how-to article so any and all input is welcomed. If you have any questions reply here so that I can answer them so that all can see. These are not my pictures but my setup is similar. Only difference is I used the stock oil feed line instead of an aftermarket braided one, I used a 3" pipe expanded to a 3.5" instead of a special 3.5" to 3" reducer, and I mounted my 280zx actuator to the intake manifold instead of getting the bracket tig welded to the compressor housing.

For a street driven car I would not go lower than a 45 profile tire. If possible 55. You will bend your rims very easily. Coilovers will be a must.

Thanks guys. She has been driving great for the last 2 weeks so I had to see what she will run. I will be going back in the next week or so to get my low 12. 240hoke, with your mods you should be in the 11's with traction no problem I am on a stock bottom end with only a metal head gasket. Materchan, http://www.obsidiansales.com/turbo/turbo.htm if he has any left he sells them for $225 plus shipping. http://www.obsidiansales.com/

Anything that can change your emissions is illegal. Thus changing cam timing would change emissions so its illegal. The no. 1 thing that irks me about this is the fact they put street racing and modifying cars together. Just because you have an intake doesn't mean you street race. Sure it means you are more likely the type of person to race than someone else who hasn't done anything to there car but it does not mean you will 100% be a street racer. Btw he is not giving them tickets for individual parts but a single ticket for non-emission legal parts on the vehicle. From what I understand its a fix-it ticket. So if you fix the parts within a few weeks it gets dismissed no fines. Still BS. Many more civics will be pulled over vs mustangs.

I decidecd to run to the local 1/4 mile track last night. I got there fine then right as I was getting ready to go down the track something went wrong on my z. 3hrs later I found out my rotor screw came loose Took me so long because I was still getting spark to all 6 cylinders because the rotor was still turning just slower than the rest of engine. Oh well. Then they found a grove on the track 30 minutes to fix that, and then somebody blew there tranny 20 minutes to fix that. So all in all I got three runs in. First one I was at 12psi, I babied it off the line, and missed second big time (I have never before ever missed 2nd, I have missed third but not second). 13.740@109.22 My 280zx turbo at 20psi ran a 12.7@107mph so I was shocked at that mph. Second run I was at 17psi, I bogged if off the line, my foot slipped off the clutch (another first I was probably frustrated because my car broke and the track kept getting messed up) 13.256@112.78 Ok the last run I calm myself down. I up the boost too 19psi creeping to 21psi. I launch and bog alittle then spin. 60 ... 2.195 330' ... 5.580 1/8 ... 8.277 MPH ... 92.89 1000 ... 10.580 1/4 ... 12.508 MPH ... 117.26:flamedevi I have lots of work on launching this thing. First time for me at the track with this car. But wow with that mph I think I can hit 11's if I can get the 60's down to 1.999 Or put some drag radials and get too 1.8 The car weighed 2520 without me in it and 2670 with me. It had 10 gallons of gas in it. I was running 5000 mile old 225/60 bfgoodrich G-force Sports on the stock turbo rim 15x6. Now I need a better head, cam, and bigger injectors, more boost and I should have an extra 40-50hp. Can't wait.

I was running an n/a oil pump out of a 260z motor with the comp springs and the oil pressure was a good 10-15psi lower than the turbo/automatic with stock spring pressure. So that tells you how much more the turbo oil pump flows. Plus my top-end feels stronger (hydraulic lifters), and my turbo spools a tad quicker. My oil pressure b4 was 38psi at full throttle and now it is 55psi.

Wow looks good. In my n/a 280zx I got around the same but that was with better aerodynamics, and less mods. Btw I have a gps that can tell you exactly how fast and how far you traveled. So next time you come up and we remember:icon10: we can test it.

Sounds like me with oil pumps and turbos. Did you get adapters machined or did you install a p90 solid head? If you got adapters machined how much did it cost. Thanks

Hey mike just had an idea. It might be the fuel injectors. Remember when we had two stuck injectors and then we loosened the hold downs and they started to work. Well I would loosen all the hold downs and lightly tigheten them. Then hook up your wideband and make sure it isn't running lean. Damn umm just remember I never saw your a/f ratios go lean when you had this problem so that might not be the problem but its still worth a try only 5 minutes to do.

Well I drove the car around for about half an hour and by 3500-4000rpms the pressure would be at 70-80psi. I never took it above that. So I swapped in the stock oil pump spring and all is good. By 3000rpms 50psi by 3500rpms 56psi and it stays there intill redline. I am sure that after a week of driving both the oil pump and oil will lower the pressure. I am running 10w-30 mobil 1 and its 80+ plus here so that was not an issue.

Ok I installed a new turbo/automatic oil pump into my z. I also have the competition inner and outer springs in it. The oil pressure while cold or even after sitting in my driveway awhile will go up past 80psi. I stop the rpms when it goes this high. I am about to take a slow drive and see if after a few miles the oil gets thinner and oil drops. I was wondering what would be TOO high for oil pressure? I know too much is bad for seals so my guess would be 55psi max. Thanks.

Well I moved my cam two teeth forward and two teeth back and compression got worse and then alittle better still not good. So I put the cam back the way I had it and installed my stock cam and bingo it worked perfectly. So... My theory is that the cam with higher lift is overpowering my hydraulic lifters at low rpm/low oil pressure. Then when i rev it oil pressure goes up and then they work normal. So basically my hydraulic lifters cannot handle the higher lift of the A cam out of 75' 280z. Well there went 6 hrs of my life:icon51:

Ok I just swapped out an oil pump and a n/a cam into my z. The cam was off of a n42 head so I had to convert to external oiling. The car will not idle. But it will rev fine. I can hold the the throttle open and keep it running at 2000-2500rpms. If I let it go down to idle the vacuum will be around 5-0 mmHg. At higher idle 15mmHG. Upon deceleration 20+. The distributor timing is correct. The mark in the cam gear lines up perfectly with the mark on the cam tower. I am in the no.1 position. Both of the no.1 cylinder cam lobes are facing up. And are opposite each other. Maybe just maybe I am off one tooth but from what I can see I don't think so. Any suggestions please help? I knew I shouldn't have touched the car it was running so good.

HIP! HIP! HOORAY!!! Nah i'm just messing with you mike. Sucks to see you leave. Especially since we finally have all three turbo z's running. But you gotta take what life throws at ya. I hope your mom' date=' pop, and grandma get well soon. I sure will miss all of us going out prowling the streets. You have fun in the sun and get laid in the shade down in Florida. I know you said you would be back but when do you think it will be? Hopefully by then i'll be able to return the head gasket I stole from you:mrgreen: [/size']

Did you drill a small hole in the wastegate side of the mbc? Also is the ball and spring inside the mbc binding? Those are the two things I would check first.

I meant stock bottom end too. Crank, rods, and pistons.

Yeah I am running the turbo flywheel and clutch. With the stock 4spd. I had a choice of either running a fidanza 225 clutch and dual centerforce clutch or stock turbo and unknown clutch. The unknown clutch seems to holding for now.

Nope just a 1mm hks metal head gasket that I stole from ON3GO. You can run up to 22psi on the stock block as long as you have no detonation at all. At that boost level though any detonation will break something. Since i'm running a more effiecient turbo then most I will only be taking it to 20psi.

I will be getting a zx 5-spd this week and putting it in my car so I decided to tune for higher boost with my current 4spd. I tuned it for 19psi which should be roughly 350hp-400lb-tq. I have done multiple drag launches and 3rd and 4th gear pulls and it works perfectly. I even spanked a 05' 911 turbo:flamedevi Only thing is its hard to get into 3rd and 4th gear but it did this when I ran 7psi so it might just be a bad tranny to start with. So if anybody wants to know the 240z 4spd can handle some power. Not to sure for how long it will hold but it did for two nights straight.