Thumper
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Posts posted by Thumper
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Does the KA tranny bolt on to the L6' date=' or do you need to mod the bell housing? Does it weight more or less? Just want yes or no answers.
Sorry I didn't want to make another thread just for these quick questions.[/quote']
Best write up out there.
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html
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we swapped in my spare 4 speed today, and it lasted i'd guess about 10 miles before thumper was speaking of some vibrations in the shifter, intially he thought his downpipe might be rubbing, but after inspection no dice, so the trans apparently is already ready to grenade.
Actually I think we might have been premature. Sure 3rd and 4th gear can be hard to get into but I put a prybar between my downpipe and tranny this morning and it is better. As in it only shakes at higher rpms or under heavy load instead of any load like last night. So i'm going to get underneath her today and pry it out some. See if that helps.
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I have been having an oil problem on/off for awhile. Whenever I install a new or junkyard oil pump the oil pressure is fine for about a day or two. Then after that it start to goe low. Like 15psi at 3000rpms low. But for the first day or two its up at 30psi+. The drop is not gradual it might go down 5psi or so at first but then one minute its fine and then 10minutes later its low. I have installed 4 oil pumps now and all of them have done this. I have also replaced the oil pressure springs with competition ones from courtesy, and i've replaced the oil pump shaft with no changes. When I remove the old oil pump the oil pump shaft is hard to turn and remove from the oil pump housing. But when I install a new/junkyard oil pump it slides on and off easily and turns easily.
So between the two days of installing it and when I notice the pressure is low my oil presssure falls off and the clearances between the shaft and oil pump housing get smaller. I know it can't be the shaft slipping because the distributor is on the same shaft and the car runs great. Very little if any oil comes out tailpipe in the morning. And compression on the engine is ok. I do have a oil leak around the lower portion of the front cover maybe from the oil pump gasket. I have always used a factory gasket on the oil pump. I do not have a gasket on the distributor. BTW all pressure readings are done with an autometer mechanical pressure gauge. I have checked the gauge with another known good one and both read the same. Any input is greatly appreciated thanks.
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Well considering I blew my tranny two days ago and 73turbo240z blew his a few weeks ago its about time we upgraded. Any updates on this? Pricing? Thanks
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50 million gigawatts
Thanks for your response. Any body with a usefull input please chime in.
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I just blew my 5-spd and don't have the money for another tranny at the moment. I have a 4-spd out of my 260z lying on ground and was wondering what is the power these blow at. Will it take 200hp? 300hp? 400hp? Drag launches on street tires at 200hp? 300hp? etc... If need be i'll just baby this but this is my 2nd car and I have AAA so I don't mind pushing the limit on the 4spd just want to know where that limit is. Thanks.
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Unplug and clean all your electrical connections. AFM, TPS, ECU, etc... Sounds like a bad afm connection though. On these old electronics sometimes if you just breath wrong on the plug they will get messed up.
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Yeah I'm just so use to saying I blew my turbo that I just automatically type it. Well turbo and tranny both start with a t so close. BTW I first wrote turbo then I edited it.
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Boost creep fixed. I took off the turbo housing and ported it too the max. It it no longer creeps at boost abover 12psi. At 7psi it slowly creeps to 12 psi between 5400rpms-6100rpms. I was never afraid of blowing my motor because I told my ecu to cut ignition at anything above 18psi. So if it hit it then I would basically run into a rev limiter. Because of the biger surface area and some slight leakage around the puck boost comes on a tad bit slower roughly 200rpms later. But still 12psi in 3rd gear by 3200rpms is good enough for me. On to my next problem. I just blew my tranny:fmad: . Time to fix that.
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We measured the movement of the stock holset actuator and we measured the movement of the stock 280zx actuator and the 280zx had more of a movement. Plus even with the wastegate puck disconnected and all the way open it will still build too much boost in 4th and 5th gears.
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i have 440cc injectors
440cc injectors running at 40psi base will handle roughly 370hp after that you will need to upgrade to 550'ccs or 6??cc's.
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I haven't seen a flow-chart in awhile but I know that on a 5.9l diesel they can put out 28psi-32psi. On my car it spools 12psi by 3000rpms. So its no slouch either. Remember i'm looking to keep the car internal gated so I don't want to block it off and go external.
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I have put compressed air into the lines and every thing moves as it should. The lines are less than 6 inches total. 4" going from manifold to boost solenoid, then 2" going from solenoid to the actuator. Both hoses are brand new do not leak. It does not spike before it starts to creep.
Ngrimm, What do you mean that they cut a hole in the flange? Thanks
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Even if I bypass the ebc and hook up the lines directly to my turbo it still boost creeps. So I don't think its my ebc thanks though.
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Without going with an external wastegate that is.
73turbo240z and I are having problems with boost creep. We are running the holset hy35w with an internal wastegate, megasquirt ecu, and a profec-b electronic boost controller. The turbo was designed for a 5.9l diesel running 18psi stock. We want it to run 12-18psi on a 2.8l. We have enlarged the internal wastegate hole twice its normal size and shortened the flap arm so that the flap opens further from the same amount of movement by the actuator. Any other tips either mechanical or tuning that might help us controll the boost creep? We would rather not have to upgrade to external wastegate. Any other thoughts? Thanks
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All new cars are rated at the flywheel. Not 100% sure but on 70-74 z's they were rated at the rear wheels and then in 75 with the 280z they went to flywheel.
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I've been to 158 with my old setup. It was rock solid. Adjustable struts, eibach springs, aftermarket sway bars, poly bushings all around, and w rated tires 160+ I beleive. I could have gone more but wasn't 100% sure how smooth the rest of the freeway was. Btw this was at 4 a.m. and I passed no cars and never even caught up to a car. Still not safe.
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We want to keep our cars as street as possible. No race gas and no additivies. Our boost comes 15psi by 3200rpms by 3rd gear so it builds alot quicker. Also remember these are not race engines they are either a stock junkyard motor, or an engine that has been rebuilt with new pistons so nothing fancy smancy. I think i'm going to try these settings for awhile and see what happens.
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Lol
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What are you more worried about breaking? turbo or TB. I've always put them right near the turbo.
When the tb is closed all that air hits a wall and reverberates backwards. It is strongest and most efficient to vent close to the tb. If you do by the turbo then it is weak and have already slowed down the turbo because the air is travelling backwards. So closer to the tb the better.
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Oops Fixed!
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On z cars the afm is before the turbo so there is no pressure. So DO NOT install the bov any where before the turbo cause it just won't work right.
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Supra one is not a great one but will work if you have no choice. Do not get a 2nd gen eclispe, talon bov. Your best oem bov is a 1st gen Bov off of a eclipse or talon. They can be had for $20 at a junkyard or $30-40 off of ebay. I ran one of those for awhile and it worked perfectly.
Interesting Oil Problem
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Ok I took apart two oil pumps. One known good one and the one that has been in the engine for maybe 5hrs of driving time. The bad one has scratches and gouges on all metal clearance parts is very hard to turn by hand. The oil pump shaft cog is in good condition and is installed the correct way. No rounded edges or scratches. I can not think of what is causing this. Both of the bad parts are on the right. Thanks