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Thumper
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Posts posted by Thumper
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It would have to be my custom mounted JTR radiator, and custom mounted intercooler. It might be original for a good reason though.
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Looks like tripple mikuni's, 6-2-1 headers, and mallory plug wires. It says built internals do you know the specs? If its the 10:1 that most people do should be good for a high 14's car. Yeah the bumper/rear valance is too square for my taste. Good luck with your build and make sure you know what engine you want before you start. Many a time including myself do hybridz members change what engine we are going to put into our cars mid project costing us some extra money. The most popular swaps in our z's, in no particular order are... l28et (280zx turbo), sr20det (silvia), rb25-26det (skyline), 2jzgte-7mgte (mk4-mk3 supra), 302-351 (Ford motors), ls1-lt1-350-383-454 (Chevy/Gm motors)
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Easy for us... Yes. Easy for SuperDan... Probably Not. Plus I think we have enough buttons on top. Although buttons are like gauges you can never have too many:flamedevi
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Sounds like somebody is having almost as much fun as me. I think its either a broken camshaft or something with the cam gears or timing chain. Open up the oil cap and check to see if both cams are rotating if they are then its must likely the cam gears are wrong. Good luck
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That would not be a legal SP car. You must run a glass windshield (and all other stock glass), full interior, and stock metal body panels.
Well knowing my memory he probably wasn't in csp. Not sure what group he was running then maybe CM. Thanks and back to you local hybridZ forum.
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What about comparing beading to flareing. Would I be right in assuming beading would be stronger than flareing? The same company for the same price offers flaring or beading.
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.. zf tranny.. 1st gear is actually down and to the left by itself, second goes up to the right, then third straight down.. and so on.. its wierd.
Damn maybe I should just keep my mouth shut I'd seem smarter that way:flamedevi So Reverse is up-left. And is the zf a 4-spd or 5-spd tranny Either way 3 gates.
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Here is the website. http://www.mittlerbros.com/ Its under sheet metal tools. I wonder if you could just use a socket. My sockets are round on the end so I could just find a perfect size and get out my good old hammer.
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"Typical" SP legal weight reduction is around 15% of the original vehcile weight. I'll be corner weighing the car on Wednesday 7/12.
Wow never heard about that. I knew someone running in csp at the national level (I think) running a really stripped early miata. It was fully stripped and didn't even have a front windshield. I remember him telling me it weighed 1800lbs and the stock weight was 2250 on those. He might not have been running at the national level though so is this a local rule kindof enforced are is it in the rule book that is too long to read at the moment? Thanks and good luck.
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I always wondered what those things could weight if fully stripped. If it could get below 2900lbs that would be nice. Aren't they 3300lb stock? Even when the car has stock suspension are you going to run in BSP? And then see how the suspension does. Or are you going to run in BS then upgrade to bsp when you have to you?
I just read that the stock Z base model weights 3188lb. And some people have removed 300lbs. So looks like 2900lb should be doable. Maybe even 2800lb if you go more drastic.
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I think for 350hp you would want more. I have a large npr and was running 22psi with holset turbo and the inlet temps stayed below danger levels. But I know if I pushed it any more I would have had to upgrade mine. So atleast if you can trade someone or come out close upgrade to the large npr or go with a custom one.
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I stand corrected. Ok ok I like the car now.
That is a really tight spacing between 1st and 3rd, and 2nd and 4th. I thought they had it in park but they have it in 1st gear. Thanks i'm going to go buy it now.
Damn just checked my bank account NM.
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Lovely car. I have never seen one in person so I can't say how beatiful they actually are though. Only bad thing is its an auto. My personal preference is except for a full on out drag car auto's suck and sticks rule.
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So you've lost 20lbs by punching holes in all those panels? So if 100lbs of weight savings equals about 10HP' date=' you've gained 2 HP by doing this? Seems like a lot of work for not much of a reward?
(Dont take this post in a bad way, I'm just curious
)[/quote']
I agree 20lbs isn't that much of a difference in any way breaking, acceleration, and turning. But if you remove 20lbs from that then remove the interior panels 10lbs. Sound deadening 15lbs, and etc... It can easily add up to 100lbs or more which is a big difference in not only acceleration, but also but in how the car drives. I would rather drive a 500hp 2000lbs car than a 1000hp 4000lb car. Sure theoritically(sp) they would accelerate the same but what one would be more fun to drive? The lighter one. I know I know not comparing apples to apples but you get why I love to make my z's lightweight. Then I add the extra power anyway and its all gravy.
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Another thing I would do is check hybridz classifieds, zcar classifieds, autotrader, and ebay for halfway similar cars. There might not be just like yours but you can get a good idea at the current market for that kind of stuff.
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My guess is you are going to be closer to 350hp than 300hp. Prob no higher than 370 though unless you have a pretty wicked cam. Let us know what you put down. Good luck.
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I know we have just wanted to do it again since its been awhile. My 260z was completely gutted under dash, fuel cell, full exhaust, l28 turbo, 2ng gen rx-7 leather seats, and no bumpers. I weighed it three different times at two different race tracks.
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Lets see who has the lightest z. Don't care what engine it has just let us know.
74' 260z 2450lb (2.8 turbo without me in it)
83' 280zx 2530lb (2.8 turbo ghetto beast)
83' 280zx 3075lb (2.8 turbo Fully loaded)
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engine is from a MR2 with a distributor ignition supercharged 4agze
going into Jover's 1985 ae86 corolla' date=' from Driftstar.com
him and I are building the car.[/quote']
One thing you need to remember when swapping from the 4age to the 4agze is the alternator on the 4agze is externally regulated while the 4age is internal. The external regulator is located on the passenger side of the rear trunk. Good luck I had fun with that swap:lol:
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It could also be you have your accel enrichment to high. Try turning it down. Or turning it up that way you know if its fuel related. Your timing map looks great if not alittle low in the rpms but not much.
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The evilness and power of boobies. Damn women and their boobies.
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I'm glad it wasn't the boost creep I experienced. That would have been a PIA. Have you had a chance to tune it better to get better boost response?
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Drilling a vent hole in the mbc will not fix a overboost/boost creep problem. It will fix a boost spike or boost drop but not boost creep. Your boost creep is the same problem 73turbo240z and I had. The wastegate isn't flowing enough air to lower the boost. Remember this turbo was used on a 5.9l I6 running at 18psi stock. I ported the wastegate just about to the max. I don't know if you can port it more. Your only two choices is try to port it more or go external. Its weird that it was ok on my car and its creeping on yours. The either means your engine is flowing less air than mine, your exhaust is more free flowing, or your engine is burning more exhaust from a more efficient burn than mine. What exhaust are you running right now?
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I am not a cam master but I would not think the 2 degrees would make a world of difference. I would be more worried about the 44 to 57 degree diffence on the overlap. I hope z-gad reads this and confirm his numbers from his previous post.
Licence Tag Ideas again..
in Non Tech Board
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sleepr
sleprz
dusted
so cool = j/k
to cool = j/k
whistlr = turbo cars
2fas4u
ketcup =catch up