Thumper
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Posts posted by Thumper
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Umm more details are needed alot more. But my best guess would check for a intake leak behind the afm. The car will idle with a big hole but as soons as you give it gas it will die.
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What type of oil pressure gauge is it? OEM? if so where is it stuck. All the way up? halfway? Look for it to be disconnected or grounded out. Also sounds like you don't have a boost gauge I would highly recommend it for safety reasons and so you can diagnose such a problem much easier. One way to tell if the turbo is the culprit is too remove the intake tube from the turbo (air filter side) and move the shaft up/down and side/side. If it has more than alittle jiggle of movement then that might be the problem. Good luck.
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Sounds good olie. Also you have high compression motor. That also makes it sound better.
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The vg30et has slightly more displacement and has a better top-end. It can be made to handle 500hp on a stock block while a l28 is maxed out around 400hp. There are exceptions but this is usually the case. If you have the choice and don't mind the extra hassle of putting a vg into a early z then go there. But the l28 just drops in while the vg there are slight modifications. Good luck.
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I posted my reply and then had a thought... does the na stock pump in a 81 280zx use the same two springs as the turbo oil pump? Can I take the springs out of my old na oil pump and put them in my new turbo oil pump, in place of the new comp springs it came with? That would be a great option... just didn't know the compatibility of the two... thanks for reading my two overly-descriptive replies... just wanted to be clear
Yes you should but there is only a single spring in the oem oil pumps. No inner and outer.
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on the opposite side of this thread... how low is too low?
sometimes while cruising at just under 3000rpm' date=' my oil pressure will be around 25-30psi. I notice this only happens once the engine is up to full operating temps. I run 10w-30 synthetic. Unless that is normal, I'm going to try 10w-40 for the next oil change and see if anything gets better.[/quote']
Hey olie if you want I have some competition springs from Courtesy. With the turbo automatic oil pump it was too much oil pressure but when I ran my n/a oil pump it was perfect. I have both the inner and outer. You can swap the springs without taking the oil pump off so like 5 minutes. Let me know if you want them.
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Check your vent hoses they are probably blocked. The 280zx has I think 4 of them.
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Thanks for the encouragement' date=' I appreciate it. The wife told me to buy some drag radials and get me some 12's next time. I wouldn't feel bad about upping to 18psi or so with some of the race fuel they sell at the track. Maybe I'll do just that in a few months.
Here's my MS settings as of today.....Note that I run 14psi or about 200kpa at full throttle. I get the full 14psi above 3000RPM.
[/quote']
Looks like you are running the supra injectors do you have resistors inline on the power wires? If so then your PWM should be 100%. Also that seems like way! to much fuel. My constant fuel is 7ms and my highest duration was 98% even at 21psi. Might want to get a wideband on that and see what your a/f ratios are. But for 2900lbs not too bad. I guess thats with you in it? I think with some tuning and getting your 60's down to low 2.0's you should be in mid to high 12's. I've found slipping the clutch is the best way to launch my turbo z. About 4-4.5k rpms then as soon as boost starts to build let off the throttle just enough to keep from spinning. Good luck
Also what compression ratio are you running? The stock pistons and rods can take 18psi easily as long as you stay away from detonation. I've had mine up to 22psi with no problems. Your timing maps look good on boost but under light acceleration and low boost you can run more. I ran 39 total and every 20kpa above 100kpa I lower it 3-4 degrees roughly.
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47psi base. 40 under vacuum. Weapon R FRP 1:1 440cc injectors
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Yepo MX-6 there. It looks but ugly but clean at the same time. I don't know what do you guys think of that hood on my Z it would give me like 100 extra HP
J/K -
My old TT setup used 125shot off the line with the powerglide tranny. I would foot brake ~2800rpm(0psi) and had the nitrous on a full throttle switch. Got instant boost ~17-19psi and the car cut several 1.66 60ft times. Had wheel spin issues most of the time with the Nitto drag radials. Was a bit much depending on whether the track was prepped. Even with a crappy 1.8 60ft the car went 10.6 at 134.1. BTW' date=' this race was against some clown with a supercharger kit on a mustang. He had all the go fast boys around his car thinking it was all that. LATER! I have it on video and need to convert it some time.
[img']http://www.speedshopthagard.com/pics/projects/240Z_twinturbo/timeslip1.jpg[/img]
What would happen if you launched without the nitrous? Bog and the slowly build boost? And you didn't have enough power to spin the tires correct unless you used the nitrous? Thats what i'm trying to get at if you car has enough power without the nitrous to launch as hard as your tires can hold why would nitrous make you launch faster. Thanks
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When you mill a head you RAISE compression. Also if you mill the head more than .020" then you will need to put spacers under your cam towers or have an adjustable cam gear.
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I think the rich top-end is hurting your hp alittle. I tuned mine to be high 11's at low-rpms and then mid 11's by redline. Also I ran 22psi on my stock block with stock head bolts but I did run a metal head gasket. Not sure on the felpro so your block could handle more. Also why would pulling timing make more power? Only way I could see that is if you were getting a miss. But usually more timing equals more power and more likely to detonate.
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I got 24-25mpg in my last 800mile trip. That was doing 80-90mph. But i'm running megasquirt. Also 8-14 inHg
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At band camp...
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with a 400lb
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If they can do a burn in the box then they have enough power to burn at launch. Its all about what rpm you launch at and how fast you dump the clutch. My 2c is that with lots of practic you could find a sweet spot in the lower rpm range where your turbo is not spooled producing the hp that the nitro could help out with. Longer usable hp curve must = faster 60ft times, no?
I don't think thats true. In the burn out box they have water so less traction. Also nitrous is an on/off 35hp-100hp difference so managing that would be harder in my opinion then just modulating the throttle.
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Here is a stock wastegate flapper arm.(Holset turbo)
And here is my shortened flapper arm.
Noticed also that I had to modify the actuator rod so that it would not bind.
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don't forget that by doing that you are reducing the distance from the force to the pivot point (radius), and in turn reducing the amount of torque about that point (torque = Force*radius). If there is enough pressure in the exhaust manifold right before the turbo, there might not be enough force to open the puck, depending on how much force your actuator can produce.
Yepo and I did have that problem. So my stock boost off the boost controller went to 5psi vs 7psi. All I did though was add a $2 spring for sears and its back to 7psi.
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Ok I was having a discussion with ON3GO about if nitrous would help my car get off the line faster. We were talking about 60ft times only. The cars get full boost in first gear by 4k rpms and they will be running 235/60 r15 drag radials.
My argument was that since I can launch my car hard enough that if I wanted to I could spin the tires from when the light comes on untill end of first that I do not need anymore power from nitrous. His argument was nitrous would let us launch at a lower rpm and let us get BETTER 60ft times.
He also said professional drag cars and other such and such cars are faster when they launch with nitrous. I then rebutted they don't have enough power to spin the tires off the line without nitrous I do. So they need the extra power down low in order to get the most out of there tires. I am not looking so much to see who is right (although I know I am:lol: ) more along the lines of the theory behind it. Thanks
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Wow looking good. Another thing I did to my wastegate to get it not to creep was cut and shorten the flapper arm that connects to the actuator arm. What this does is shorten the lever so that when the wastegate actuator opens up its in fact moving the flapper arm more because it is on a smaller pivot point/smaller circle. If this is confusing (i know i'm not using the correct terminology) I can draw some pics or take some pics.
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ON3GO's sisters lovely
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Once upon a
J/K
Time to un-pimp ze auto! (not what you think)
in Non Tech Board
Posted
He was also in Bad Boys 2. "I am the grim reaper"