Thumper
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Posts posted by Thumper
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Yeah the 03 cobra had intake, exhaust, h-pipe, 15psi pulley, and some other stuff. But the kid wasn't the best driver although his 2nd was a fairly good one.
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11.9 is an ok voltage for the car not running. There are four wires needed to make an alternator work. A ground, a battery wire, and two wires to tell the alternator to turn on and what voltage to control. Another think you can do is most auto parts stores can test alternators out of a car. That way you can know for a fact if its the wiring or the alternator itself. Good luck
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Parking garage + on3go + 73turbo240z + me + video camera + turbo z + very bored + 1/2 quart of mobil 1 oil = This
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If it's a real race car, I'd say go solid rear, a four link and a spool. You might also check with the sanctioning body. Some don't allow welded diffs.
Nah this would be a poor man's drag car if anything. But this does look like something I will do someday. Thanks
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What would be better for 1/4 mile times a 300zx lsd or to weld the diff up for an all out drag car. This car would be trailered to and from the track. I would not be worried about reliability or turns only getting down the 1/4 mile the fastest. Btw my car is a street car and I would never do this to my car just asking cause I think of these things randomly.
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Awesome times on street tires!
What octane are you running?
I run the same setup on the street with 93 octane. But at the track since I was doing alot of back to back runs I decided to put 2 gallons of 104 mixed in with about 4 gallons of 93. I probably wouldn't have had a problem but for $10 you get the added safety.
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your times are known now' date=' apparently the score board lit up the 11 run for a second....
p.s. i'm out working on this BMW's top, bring my **** over.
[/quote']Ehh if it gets alot of people replying to it i'll step in if not who gives.
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Very Impressive! My short term goal is to reach 11 sec. What did you ditch to get your 260 that light?
Stock bumpers, horns, a/c, heater, blower, and air ducts. I still have the factory sound deadening, full interior, radio, speakers, 2nd gen leather rx-7 seats, factory battery, and really big sway bars. My z was an early 260z so it was closer to the 240z except different tail lights. Oh I also have a fuel cell but that only saved 5-10lbs at max. I thought about stripping it just for fun but I like to know what the car runs as is. I think I could get another 100lbs if I removed all above.
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Thanks guys. Yes I will be at SEZ. Look for the ugle red/primer car(blame it on z-gad:mrgreen: ). Yeah after 18 runs my clutch started to slip alittle shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th, but it still held my starts. Other than that the car held up well. I wanted to really push the car so that if it broke it would do it here instead 800miles away at SEZ.
I wish I could lose 20-30lb-tq in first gear and then have full power for the rest of the track:( That would make my 60's alot more easier. I think I can get a 1.8 if I launch perfectly. I also have another 2psi I can go. But as you can tell by my numbers power isn't the problem. Maybe I can borrow someones DR's at SEZ and see if I can break something or get into the mid 11's:mrgreen: Umm maybe not breaking is bad.
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Thanks Mike me too. Just alittle more money and i'll be in mid to low 11's. My guess head, cam, drag radials, and cv's.
Yes that is on stock internals. Only thing I've done to the engine is installed a stolen (on3go's) 1mm metal head gasket. On street driveability is alittle worse than the stock t3. But 12psi comes on by 3100rpms. 18psi by 3300. So nothing too bad. Plus my wastegate hole is slightly to big and alittle bit is seeping past the puck so that doesn't help anything maybe 100rpms difference. I like it though. You can NEVER blow this up. They can take 40psi on a 5.9l inline 6 and still survive. At 18psi i'm just beginning to get into the efficiency of this thing. I would recommend it too anyone.
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Just got back from the track. Last time I ran a 12.508 @ 117.26 Only thing I changed since the last time was I upped the boost by 1psi. Tonight it was 19psi creeping to 21psi. It only creeps between 5400rpms and 6000rpms. My fourth run of the night was my fastest with a:
r/t .542
60' 1.927
330 5.202
1/8 7.821
mph 95.25
1000 10.077
1/4 11.959
mph 119.98
My first 11 second pass ever.
I almost cried. My car weighed 2620 with me in it. Temp was 73 degrees with 85% humidity. Later on I ran 12.044 @ 120.21 that being my highes mph. My quickest 60ft was my only 11 for the night. I did run a 12.025 @ 119.36 with a 1.939 60ft.In total I ran 18 times. And the car never even hickuped. 7 of them I got 1.9's 60fts then about 6 in 2.0's and the rest really bad. When the air got alittle cooler and my car cooled off I started to make more power and spin instead of hooking. So my 60's got unconsistent. I just can't wait to see what this baby will do with some drag radials and a cam for better top-end.
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Thumper - I noticed you have a 260Z - 240 style or later 280 style? That will affect your decision.
I have heard that the 280ZX Turbo CV's are getting harder to find and that the 300ZX turbo halfshaft/CV upgrade may be the better move for longer term availability of parts.
FWIW - I put new Spicer "Brute force" u-joints on my half-shafts and have already broken one at around 20' date='000 miles after installation. I'm planning on going the CV route when I get time/$$[/quote']
I have an early 260z. 10/73 if I remember correctly. I already know a place where I can get turbo axles for cheap so thats not the problem. Thanks for letting me know about your spicer u-joints. I just broke my first u-joint two weeks ago but that was probably due to old age. I replaced it with some o'reilly brand and it hasn't give me any problems but only time will tell. I will be upgrading too the cv's soon hopefully I won't have to replace my bearings.
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My local junkyard will sell them to me for $75 but usually I can talk him down alittle. And I figure I shouldn't need adapters since I know a few people who have run cv's without adapters and have had no problems.
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I am looking to upgrade my axles. So far as I see it I have two options. Upgrade the u-joints on my current axles to spicers $50 x4 or upgrade my axles to turbo cv axles $60-75 total. What would be stronger? What one would last longer? Thanks
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Fuel pump, electrical connectors, spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, coil, dist, timing, fuel injetors, etc... Not being a smart *** just thats all it can be start checking.
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This is how I installed my holset turbo. First you will need a hy35w turbo. You can use an hx35w but you will need a spacer and it will take forever to spool. When you order/get the turbo, make sure you get the 45degree exhaust pipe and v-band clamp. The v-band clamp is $40 at dodge and the pipe is alot more. The supplies you will need are:
- Holset hy35w turbo (Ebay, Junkyard, etc...)$250-$450
- m12 x 1.25 thread tap (Local hardware store)$10
- 2.75" x ?" Intercooler coupler (?= whatever size pipe you will use)$20
- 3" mandrel bent u-bend piping (Summit, Jegs, JcWhitney)$25
- ?" mandrel bent u-bend piping (For pipe from turbo too intercooler)$25
- Mig/Tig Welder (Friends, Muffler shop, Sears)$450-$3k
- RTV Sealant (Anywhere)$7
- O2 Sensor Bung (Auto parts shop, Muffler Shop, Ebay)$6
- 4" Air Filter (Summit, Jegs, JcWhitney, etc...)$50-70
- Stock Turbo/Manifold Gasket (Nissan)$20
- Large c-clip Pliers (Tool Place)$15
- 2 copper washers for oil feed line (Auto Parts store)$6
- Die grinder/Dremel (Tool Place)$20-100
- Stock 280zx turbo Wastegate Actuator
- Unbolt the clamp that holds the center section to the exhaust housing.
- Remove the c-clip that holds the compressor housing to the center section
- Remove the wastegate actuator and cut off the bracket that held the actuator to the compressor housing
- Rethread the oil feed hole with the tap and then turn center section upside down blowing all shavings out and then run some thick oil through it to get the leftovers
- Port the stock wastegate hole as big as you can get. Over 300% larger. Make it so the the wastegate puck barely covers the hole and make sure the hole is even all the way back and does not taper down. If not done enough you WILL have boost creep problems and will have to take the turbo off and redo.
- Put new manifold gasket on and mount exhaust housing.
- Put the center section on the exhaust housing and lightly tighen the v-band clamp. Rotate center section untill the drain tube lines up with the bolt holes.
- Slide the compressor housing onto the center section and clock it at the position you want it. Mark the compressor housing and center section.
- Remove housing and center section from exhaust housing. Line the marks up and install the c-clip removed earlier.
- Reinstall the center section with the compressor housing attached.
- Make sure everything is lining up correctly (oil drain pipe, compressor outlet, and you have enough room for you pcv valve)
- Tighten the v-band clamp moderately. No need to torque it down it is deceiving on how tight it is
- Put a light coat of rtv sealant on oil drain tube and install the bolts.
- Bend stock oil feed line so that it is in the correct location and install the bolt with new copper washers.
- Using the 45 degree exhaust pipe and 3" mandrel bent pipe make a downpipe. You will need to have the 3" pipe expanded to fit the 3.5" exhaust pipe. But only for an 1" or 2" then it can be 3" the rest of the way.
- Make the intercooler pipe and install it with the coupler
- Make a bracket for the stock wastegate actuator either Tig welding it to the compressor housing or mounting it to the intake manifold. Make sure it is a straight angle and the actuator can extend fully.
- Install 4" air filter and prime the turbo with oil
- Enjoy the ride!
This is my first how-to article so any and all input is welcomed. If you have any questions reply here so that I can answer them so that all can see.
These are not my pictures but my setup is similar. Only difference is I used the stock oil feed line instead of an aftermarket braided one, I used a 3" pipe expanded to a 3.5" instead of a special 3.5" to 3" reducer, and I mounted my 280zx actuator to the intake manifold instead of getting the bracket tig welded to the compressor housing.
- Holset hy35w turbo (Ebay, Junkyard, etc...)$250-$450
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Awesome dude!!
117 is cookin'
As yo have already heard' date=' work on the launch and 11's are right around the corner!!
You still bringing it to SEZ?[/quote']
Thanks. Unfortunately I will not be able too make it to SEZ. Money problems and my girlfriend won't let me borrow any more money.
All said and done it would have cost me atleast $350. Damn and I was REALLY looking forward to it this yr. -
For a street driven car I would not go lower than a 45 profile tire. If possible 55. You will bend your rims very easily. Coilovers will be a must.
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Thanks guys. She has been driving great for the last 2 weeks so I had to see what she will run. I will be going back in the next week or so to get my low 12.
240hoke, with your mods you should be in the 11's with traction no problem I am on a stock bottom end with only a metal head gasket.
Materchan, http://www.obsidiansales.com/turbo/turbo.htm if he has any left he sells them for $225 plus shipping. http://www.obsidiansales.com/
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Anything that can change your emissions is illegal. Thus changing cam timing would change emissions so its illegal. The no. 1 thing that irks me about this is the fact they put street racing and modifying cars together. Just because you have an intake doesn't mean you street race. Sure it means you are more likely the type of person to race than someone else who hasn't done anything to there car but it does not mean you will 100% be a street racer. Btw he is not giving them tickets for individual parts but a single ticket for non-emission legal parts on the vehicle. From what I understand its a fix-it ticket. So if you fix the parts within a few weeks it gets dismissed no fines. Still BS. Many more civics will be pulled over vs mustangs.
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I decidecd to run to the local 1/4 mile track last night. I got there fine then right as I was getting ready to go down the track something went wrong on my z. 3hrs later I found out my rotor screw came loose
Took me so long because I was still getting spark to all 6 cylinders because the rotor was still turning just slower than the rest of engine. Oh well. Then they found a grove on the track 30 minutes to fix that, and then somebody blew there tranny 20 minutes to fix that.So all in all I got three runs in. First one I was at 12psi, I babied it off the line, and missed second big time (I have never before ever missed 2nd, I have missed third but not second). 13.740@109.22 My 280zx turbo at 20psi ran a 12.7@107mph so I was shocked at that mph. Second run I was at 17psi, I bogged if off the line, my foot slipped off the clutch (another first I was probably frustrated because my car broke and the track kept getting messed up) 13.256@112.78 Ok the last run I calm myself down. I up the boost too 19psi creeping to 21psi. I launch and bog alittle then spin.
60 ... 2.195
330' ... 5.580
1/8 ... 8.277
MPH ... 92.89
1000 ... 10.580
1/4 ... 12.508
MPH ... 117.26:flamedevi
I have lots of work on launching this thing. First time for me at the track with this car. But wow with that mph I think I can hit 11's if I can get the 60's down to 1.999 Or put some drag radials and get too 1.8
The car weighed 2520 without me in it and 2670 with me. It had 10 gallons of gas in it. I was running 5000 mile old 225/60 bfgoodrich G-force Sports on the stock turbo rim 15x6. Now I need a better head, cam, and bigger injectors, more boost and I should have an extra 40-50hp. Can't wait.
Thanks
I almost cried. My car weighed 2620 with me in it. Temp was 73 degrees with 85% humidity. Later on I ran 12.044 @ 120.21 that being my highes mph. My quickest 60ft was my only 11 for the night. I did run a 12.025 @ 119.36 with a 1.939 60ft.
All said and done it would have cost me atleast $350. Damn and I was REALLY looking forward to it this yr.
Took me so long because I was still getting spark to all 6 cylinders because the rotor was still turning just slower than the rest of engine. Oh well. Then they found a grove on the track 30 minutes to fix that, and then somebody blew there tranny 20 minutes to fix that.
KA Tranny - The Limit has been found!
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Lol. For some reason I visualized you yelling powRRR while it blew up. Well that sucks that the ka broke on you. We really need to find a tranny that can handle the power. How long did you have this one?