Jump to content
HybridZ

Thumper

Members
  • Posts

    1080
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Thumper

  1. Unless your hydraulic lifters are in tip top shape or have been modified you cannont run an aftermarket cam. Even if they don't make noise doesn't mean they are in tip top condition. Tom I am switching out my hydraulic head for a solid head so that I can run my VERY MILD cam. It would not run on my hydraulic head due to not enough lifter strength at idle. This was with a turbo automatic oil pump with competition springs. 15psi at idle and 55psi by 3500rpms. So oil pressure was not the problem. I also have dissembled and cleaned my lifters multiple times.

  2. Unless your hydraulic lifters are in tip top shape or have been modified you cannont run an aftermarket cam. Even if they don't make noise doesn't mean they are in tip top condition. Tom I am switching out my hydraulic head for a solid head so that I can run my VERY MILD cam. It would not run on my hydraulic head due to not enough lifter strength at idle. This was with a turbo automatic oil pump with competition springs. 15psi at idle and 55psi by 3500rpms. So oil pressure was not the problem. I also have dissembled and cleaned my lifters multiple times.

  3. Be careful and dont get caught up in the N/A high RPM mentality. Just because it is capable of revving to 67-6800 does not mean it should be revved that high. If it has the stock cams[/b'], there is no need to rev it much past 6200 and I am willing to bet, with the boost level you are running, that if you shifted the 1-2 & 2-3 at 6200 and let the engine spend more time under load in 3rd and 4th, it will go quicker and faster!

     

    I don't want to say the specs of build while i'm not in the protected thread. But my question was what is the max rpm for the stock block? Thanks

  4. I am about to change my rear diff from a r200 to a welded r180. I am doing this for being lighter, better gearing (3.36 compared to 3.545), and this will be welded so better traction. This will be only a drag car and will not have to worry about turns except in the staging lanes. I know the welds tend to turn on autocross type courses and on the street but what about straight line? The specs on the build are here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109709 Thanks

  5. I am looking to remove the most amount of weight while spending no money. I am going to be removing the sound deadening, all electrical wires, headlights, wipers, mirrors, etc... but I was wondering where can I cut the frame to remove weight? I was thinking the rear storage compartments, gut/cut the doors, cut all uncessary brackets and tabs, and swiss cheese the front core support. Any other ideas? This is a Drag only car and will not have to worry about safety inspections. Also it will have a roll bar for added stiffness. The specs on the build are here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109709 Thanks

  6. Ummm !!!! Well I got her running. I reinstalled the wires 180 degree out and Varooom!!! I guess the dizzy was rebuilt some time in it's passed with the shaft 180 degrees out.

     

    Did you accidently rotate the crank when you removed the dizzy? Because the dizzy goes at half-speed as the crank same as the cam. You can be at top dead center on the crank pulley but not on the compression stroke for the cam. You can tell if you are by putting the crank pulley at tdc opening open you oil cap and looking at the cam lobes. The one closest to the front of the car should be at 2 o'clock (looking from the front of the car) and the second cam lobe should be at the 10 o'clock position. Basically both of should be facing up slightly. Then take off your distributor cap and make sure your dizzy is facing towards the front of the car/ number 1 cylinder. Good luck

  7. I searched and only found one answer but he had aftermarket pistons.

     

    I am wondering what will stock turbo crank/rods/pistons will handle rpm whise untill something breaks or falls apart. The head will be able to handle 7500rpms. And I should be making power up to atleast 6500rpms. But if i'm still making power I was wondering what is the max I can take the rpms so that I can optimise my shift points. The engine is a turbo engine running high boost. I will need to spin it to 6500 atleast but would like 6700-6800 just to make sure I'm not making power there. Thanks

  8. Look at my signature......Would this work good for me? Is it ALOT better than the piece of crap I have now?

     

    I have run both the volvo intercooler and the starion intercooler. The volvo intercooler had detonation at 15psi but the starion intercooler I ran 21psi with detonation very rarely. Both of these psi were with stock efi running 25 degrees timing on an 83 ecu, and running the stock t3. Now i'm running the npr and the intercooler is by far better than the npr. So take what you will.

  9. The pinks thread has been moved into the private thread for more security. If you would like to join the private thread click on the USERCP link at the top of the page. Then click group memberships. Then click join Pinks thread. Before you can see any of the posts though you have to be apporved and that will take a few hrs so please be patient while you are. Thanks for you help.

     

    Ted

×
×
  • Create New...