SleeperZ

BTW, for a taller 5th gear, use a tranny from a non-turbo ZX, years 81-83. That IS a direct bolt-in.

Actually, I don't believe it is a direct swap. Since the ZX trannies bolt right into the Zs, and my T-5 needed a custom drive shaft and modified crossmember, I think you will have to do similar things to yours, such as starting with the offset crossmember from the turboZX. The output shaft is larger, and the flange on the diff is different too, so you can't just swap in the turbo drive shaft. Hope this helps (anyone correct me please if I am wrong).

A good low cost option could be 2nd gen RX7 injectors (from normally aspirated motor). I hear they flow about 420cc or so and have the right impedence. I don't know if they will have the right nose to go into the manifold like the Mustang SVO injectors. And I know nothing about Z32 injectors -- there is a high cost option from NISMO -- 550cc.

If you are going to use a nice flexible system like SDS, you have no need for a rising rate FPR. Those things are bandaids for inadequate injection systems. If you are doing a high HP build-up you will need bigger injectors. The brown-top SVO turbo injectors are rated at 370cc/min, good for maybe 350 HP depending on fuel pressure. You may need a bigger pump too, I don't know what the stock turbo pump flows, but it's not enough for 300 HP I bet.

You really need to know how you want to use the motor and how much power you want to make. For my street application, shooting for 15 psi boost, stock redline, stock displacement, the TO4 S-trim is ideal. For all out racing, higher RPM, lots of folks like the 60-1. There are lots of choices and lots of compromises, so study up.

Oh, and by the way, new lifters for that P90 head are d@mn expensive (almost $20 each)-- and you have to get new lifters.

J, That price seems ballpark, provided the work is good. I paid a guy in Colorado almost $1300 for my turbo head -- thats a new camshaft and lifters, resurfacing, some mild valve unshrouding and stock valves. Maybe I paid too much, but I'll tell you the job was done right. If you pay less and it's not done right, you paid WAY too much.

Well, here's the skinny, if anyone is interested. The adapter from Nissan doesn't work, the thread is huge, wont fit in the 18mmx1.5mm thread for the "normal" O2 sensors. I bought a 18x1.5 oil drain plug, chopped off the hex end, drilled it out and tapped it for the small O2 sensor (12mmx1.25mm), and made my own adapter.

Sounds like a good price if it hasn't got any rust. Check very carefully underneath the body, especially where the seats and the firewall meet along the frame rails (I think the ZX has these like the Z). The auto tranny is very tough, I wouldn't worry about it with a more powerful engine. The engine is barely getting broken in with 87,000 miles -- I'm running a stock bottom end with 170k, no problems. Good luck and enjoy.

LOL! This thing they say draws 50A from the electrical system. They also say "The eRAM is designed for low duty cycle use and therefore is on only when you are at full throttle." I bet I know why...the thing starts to heat up pretty good, so you get 1/2psi of HOT air.

Well, that's what I thought too. But according to the 300ZX service manual, the N/A uses a normal O2 sensor that generates 0-1V in the presence of )2 in the exhaust. The turbo ECU uses a different sensor that changes it's resistance in the presence of O2 in the exhaust. I have not verified the different O2 bung size, but thats what I have gathered from searching the archives at Z31.com. They can't seem to answer my question over there though. I suppose I shall just purchase the correct sensor and see if I can have an adapter machined.

Apparently I need a strange type of O2 sensor for my '87ZXT ECU to function properly, and the stock (non-universal) part has a smaller bung fitting than the normal 22mm. Has anyone heard of a (stainless) adapter that will interface the 17mm sensor with a 22mm bung? If anyone can tell me more about the screwy O2 sensors on the 300ZX turbos, I'd appreciate it.

I plan to put '84 4 lug rotors and 280ZX calipers on my '78 280. I got a set of 240 hubs this weekend, and will get new bearings and seals. Do I need to get the parts for a 280 or a 240? Are there bearing differences or spindle differences between the two models? TIA '78ZXT

Well, after 3 months of down time, I've finally done it. The old '78 ZXT had a fueling problem I attributed to the AFM or the computer, so I ripped out the '82 electronics, bought a used 300ZXT AFM and computer, and wired them in. It's not a simple swap; I rewired the ignition coil, the AFM, the fuel pump, the fuel and EFI relays, the air regulator, and installed a 300ZX distributor disc in the old distributor. I wired it all in, tested the power circuits, plugged in the computer, and BINGO! It fired right up, no mistakes! Oh joy! Back on the road! Just thought I'd let y'all know. '78ZXT Now on to decompiling the code inside it to modify fuel delivery and ignition mapping when I install the intercooler

I'm pretty new too, but I've done exactly what you are looking to do. Just get a stock turbo engine from a '81-'83 ZX. SDS is very popular, and that combined with the stock engine, and an intercooler will easily get you 300hp. You will probably be on the ragged edge of the fuel system, so just get some bigger injectors (SVO turbo Mustang ones work) and an upgraded fuel pump. Truly, 300 reliable HP is very easy with the ZXT motor.

Hey! Cool to see all the Colorado folks here. The altitude is sure favorable to turbos, and I love having one in a car that didn't come with one!! ------------------ '78ZXT