SleeperZ

You didn't mention which Z car injectors you are asking about. The factory turbo injectors for the 280ZX and 1st generation 300ZX are rated at 260cc/min @ 37psi fuel pressure. They are low impedence (2.5ohm). You will have some tuning to do if you put in 30lb injectors, as they will run too rich. I don't have any numbers for any other Z car injectors.

As much fun as it is to build a motor, if all you are shooting for is 400 hp, use the stock motor, valve cover to oil pan. Put you money into an efficient turbo (TO4E?) and an efficient intercooler, along with the requisite fuel system upgrade. That setup with 22-25 psi boost will put you into that hp range, and if you keep your timing and intake temperatures in check, the stock motor will produce what you want. MO only, seen it done.

Which caliper type did the bracket have mounted to it? What is the center-center distance of the caliper mounting holes? The only bolt-on offset Maxima caliper brackets I've seen so far had the narrower ears for the old style calipers. I'm on a tight budget right now -- I'm even considering trying to hacksaw and chisel off some welded on Maxima brackets.. Anybody do this??

When I rebuilt my L28, it came with a very thin paper gasket for the pump. I believe you should find one and use it -- that's not an area I would want to goop up and hope it seals (without getting pucky into the pump and bearings....) ooops, I didn't notice this was a V8 question... [ November 05, 2001: Message edited by: SleeperZ ]

I've not used that particular one, but the bleeder-type I am using (MSA adjustable boost - way expensive), behind the heat shield, is extremely temperature sensitive. My boost varies from 8-10 psi depending on outside temperature and how warm the car is. For their price it might be worth it to try it.

I think the '84 non-turbo rotors are the only ones for a 4-lug setup. Any other Z31 300ZX rotor should be good for a 5-lug setup, but check the applications....

I'm not planning on building one in a Z, this question is on a friends Mustang. He has a '90 5.0, and says with stock internals, including camshaft, he could get his 5.0 into the 12's (at 5800 feet, in Denver). The stock 5.0's here can do mid 15's at best, so I'm thinking the only possible way he could get a 3200lb car into the twelves is with an intercooled turbo - like about 550 hp at the crank? How possible? Wouldn't he need stronger rods or crank?

Those rear calipers look like the '81 turbo calipers. The mounting ears are closer together than the later calipers (3.75" vs 4.5"). The later ones have no large frame and the e-brake attachment comes in at an angle.

You got lucky. I called Monday - the number is good, but they saw zero stock nationwide. I'm thinking the correct bracket is on either very late '81 or early '82 Maximas, where they switched to the later brake (like on the '82 -'83 ZX) but hadn't started to weld the hanger to the hub. Thoughts?

Heh, that's funny, I had the opposite problem - I think. I got my heavy hand tools and went today to yank the caliper brackets from an '81 Maxima. The bracket holes were too close together (0.375"), so I left them there. I noticed the old Maxima calipers were the old style with the large frame. I've never pulled stub axles before, so instead of the Maxima stubs, I pulled the ZXT stubs with my 4' cheater. I ended up taking some later Maxima flat caliper brackets and caliper sliders - it looks like the sliders are shorter than the ZXT sliders, but not the 0.5" necessary to make the flat brackets work. What would be ideal now is to find some rotors with a shallow hat (less than the 1.5" of the '83 ZXT rotor) but I found nothing today.

For $2000 you can easily get 200hp out of an L28ET. The turbo motor stock with a little extra boost will do 200hp, which should put you slightly ahead of the offending Mustangs. I paid $750 for a running donor 280ZXT - there is very little extra expense bolting and wiring the motor and electronics. With an intercooler and a bigger fuel pump and injectors you can run low 13 - high 12 second 1/4s which blows them away.

You have a sale here...that sounds great!

I believe the IC for the Ford truck is too big to fit up front. The Spearco IC would be a good one IF the end tanks were at the top and bottom of the core (29.5 X 3.5 charge air area), but they aren't, so the IC is not suited for a large engine - too much pressure drop at the 600-900 CFM flow you will need. I don't have direct experience with either IC, just doing research at the moment, so if someone else has better information they need to pipe up.

Sounds like you may have one bad fuel injector, dragging the ECU injector signal down with it. You could check the resistance of #4, #5, and #6 and make sure they are about 2 ohms. Anything less could certainly cause what you are seeing.

That sounds like a killer pump Mikelly! Do you know if they are available separately and for how much? Or if there is an OEM application? I'm thinking about setting up an injector and pump test bench - I should be able to evaluate flow ratings at pressure for pumps and injectors...One of these days I will upgrade the fuel system on my Z (gotta get that da@n intercooler first...)

The wastegate looks misplaced to me. The wastegate on my T3/TO4 is in the same relative position as the stock actuator (I'm running the same wastegate and actuator as I did stock). With what you show, it's no surprise it won't clear - can you remount it below the compressor outlet? If not, can you use a 280ZXT wastegate actuator and internal wastegate instead?

Hi JT - IMO I would keep it, hassle that it is - some serious heat comes off that exhaust, and any reduction of heat in the intake will help in engine reliablity. How does that N42 work out for you? I have one I'm thinking of putting on my L28ET, but I hear conflicting information on the ID of the runners? Are they the same as the turbo manifold, or do you have to port it out? (Obviously I have not taken off the intake to measure it myself yet).

Has anyone put some miles or testing on the Neapco solid u-joint? I am anticipating I will break an original u-joint soon, and want to get the half-shafts built as strong as I can.

IMHO, a cold air intake is not pointless with an intercooler. If you have the efficiency to spare with your intercooler to compensate for hot engine compartment air, your boost isn't high enough It sems to me the cooler the air is you start with, the cooler the air is when it hits your intercooler and the lower the temp is when it exits the IC. I am too lazy to do the math, but I would think every little bit helps.

Ouch - I see there is no wastegate control hose - what does that sucker boost?? What a screamer - hang on tight!

This is the second post in the Chevy section I've done - I'm an inliner and will probably stay one - unless I can get an OHC turbo V8 out of the concept stage. Car: 1978 280Z, bumperless, A/C-less, air dam, 2780lb with me and 3/4 tank. Engine: L28T, 175k miles, with 270/280 turbo cam. Turbo: T3/TO4 S-trim, not intercooled (yet), full 2-1/2" exhaust with stainless DP. Management: Stock fuel system with stock 300ZX ECU and MAS. I got 27 mpg over 250 miles @ 95mph average . Cooling: 280ZX oil cooler, 4 row radiator, Permacool electric fan. Suspension: Eibach progessives, Tokiko non-adjustable struts, solid T/C kit, urethane all around. On Dunlop 225/50/15 Z-rated tires, I pull 1.05G on the road course. Brakes: 280ZX calipers, 300ZX rotors, stock rear drums. Drive train: Centerforce II clutch, T-5 tranny, 3.90 open diff with a modified stock mount and urethane bushings. I finally got into the 14s (14.9 @ 94mph) at 5800' elevation, Bandimere. L28ET is a force to be reckoned with! [ October 16, 2001: Message edited by: SleeperZ ]

No flames here I don't run a V8, but IMHO, this discussion is what the board's about. You have some strong and well-considered points - the Z rocks from the myriad of possible options - what other car has so many???

Ya, I notice it big time. My diff mount is sheared, and it makes a nasssty clanking when I get on it hard. Get a new mount, or a solid one - both cost about the same.

I had a subscription to AutoSpeed. It was worth it - $10 for some good, informative articles. I read up on intercooling and FI, and enjoyed reading about all the crazy Aussie stuff. I got what I wanted out of it, didn't feel like keeping up the subscription though.