SleeperZ

Count me in. I've been wanting to install the disks and keep the e-brake for a while.

Thanks for the ideas. The MBC I have is just a pressure relief with a 10# spring in it (it's the MSA kit - $90 for $15 worth of parts). I have put the 0-100# pressure relief in line with it, in an attempt to speed the spoolup. Scottie - your point is well taken that I just am not boosting enough over stock to justify this complicated mess. I think I will try just shortening the wastegate actuator rod.

I have a MBC (manual boost controller) set up to be very similar to what Scottie-GNZ is running with the exception of the shortened wastegate controller rod. I have not dialed in the pressure relief isolating the wastegate yet, it's just running open right now. My target boost, without an IC, is 9psi and my pop-off is adjusted to 10psi. What I am experiencing is fairly extreme variation in boost level, depending on engine temperature. I ran at the track Saturday under very warm condtions (road race), and my boost was over 10psi. I adjusted it down to 9, and now in cool conditions off the track, I am now only boosting to 7psi. I mounted the thing under the hood to the back of the strut tower, behind the heat shield, and the controller body doesn't seem to be getting that hot... What do I have to do? Mount the da@n thing inside the car? Put in a smaller flow restrictor? Suggestions? By the way, Saturday was awesome, Z's rule. With 225/50/15 Dunlop Z-rated tires, I was pulling over 1G in the turns. With a passenger, I chased down a Viper (a new driver, but still...)

The ZX T-5 shifter doesn't have the 2 bolts holding on the upper shifter, unfortunately. I know a guy who hot-sawed half-way through it, bent it and re-welded it. The TChicken is the standard deal for T-5 shifters, it bends back for a fair shift location, but the 2 bolt deal still sticks up too high to avoid any console problems, I had to carve mine out a bit. At least I don't have a radio there anymore to get interfered with.

My '87 300ZXT ECU uses the switch type TPS, and I'm pretty sure I saw in the FSM the N/A model uses the same. I've never seen a pot type TPS on any Z or ZX, but I'm not saying they didn't.

Nice pictures of the motor. It looks like it will need some oil pan work and sump pickup relocation. It's too tall to fit over the crossmember with the forward sump I bet.

Hi Evan - I have the same problem. I wouldn't mind trying out a "ripper" myself, but I don't see anyone with a better price than Summit, and that ain't cheap. Right now I'm running a stock shifter from a TBird TurboCoupe (T5). I bet any T5 shifter will work, and better than the ZX T5 in a Z. Hope this helps.

I can't believe you would see your water temperature rise, despite putting more heat into the system with a water-cooler turbo. As far as I'm concerned, if you have a thermostat in your cylinder head for 185 degrees, and your water temperature rises higher than that, your cooling system is overloaded, and you need a bigger radiator. So if your water temp rises because of cooling the turbo, your cooling system is running on the ragged edge and needs upgrading anyway.

The filter is located immediately after the pump in the lubrication system. Think about this...if the bearings were before the filter, what would happen if you get a piece of metal sucked up by your pump pickup...right into the bearing. The more I thnk about it, the more I'm convinced the filter indeed filters oil all the time, maybe dropping 3-6 psi. There is no way a lubrication system would be designed so the oil was not filtered constantly, and only bypassed when the filter was plugged enough to starve the bearings. My mind is made up!!

Owen - my local NAPA store has all the hydraulic service items, fittings, hose, whatever you need to fix your frontend loader or your hybrid

I used hydraulic hose for my cooler. Withstands 200-300 PSI of hot hydraulic fluid, works great!

I used hydraulic hose for my cooler. Withstands 200-300 PSI of hot hydraulic fluid, works great!

That is interesting material, but I'm not convinced yet. The bypass valve may indeed open at 10-15 psi, but that pressure drop is across the filter, not the total oil pressure. I would hope you would not lose 10-15 psi across your filter in a system that has a total pressure of only 60 psi max. The bypass valve is supposedly designed to open when the filter is so plugged up is does drop 10-15 psi, and thus not starve the bearings of oil. Just my 0.02.

You are probably mostly right. But those "theoretical" numbers came from a stock displacement L28, T-04 S3-trim turbo efficiencies at 15psi boost, and intercooler efficiency of 80%. Naturally the fuel system must be built to handle it, and the intake and exhaust restrictions reduced to the point where you can still meet the turbo efficiencies. This power is also made at at 7000 rpm redline, which is probably a little bit high, especially for the stock cam.

I guess I resemble that too! That's cool stuff Scottie.

What Scottie said.... But check this link out -- http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFmatch.html And 20 psi sounds a bit high for just 350 hp -- for my engine at 15 psi boost, the calculator gives me 370 hp.

I know a fellow who put one in his 260, along with a T-5 and the 280ZX turbo motor. The word is there is nothing different about it, it's a rear diff used in the front of a 4x4, so you in effect get a new wear surface from a used diff. He's actually getting tired of the zippy gears, especially with that T-5. I'm not surprised.

I don't believe there is any difference. I put a L28T from a ZX 2+2 in my '78 coupe.

I was thinking, 2 gallons should be enough, but then you said you have 1/2" line!! Maybe you should try another gallon or two, that is huge fuel line, especially for an EFI system. Just my thoughts, FWIW

The top wite is not used on a turbo, it signals WOT. The center pin is common, and the bottom pin signals idle. You only have to hook up the bottom two, but they should already be in your harness.

Thanks for the tips!

Hi all: I got some factory 14"x6" 6 spoke wheels (big weight savings) to run on the street. Tell me what tires work - I want a sticky tire for my "SleeperZ" just in case a riceboy thinks he's fast. I am thinking the widest I can get on this rim is the 215/60/14, but I should be able to tolerate a taller tire, as I will be putting in a 3.90 diff soon. TIA

I'm doing the brake upgrade Scottie-GNZ did - I have a '78Z, 240Z hubs, '84 ZX 4 bolt vented rotors, and ZX calipers. My calipers came off a '79ZX, and I've been noticing that brake pad applications are different for '79 - '80 and '81 - '83. Does anyone know what the differences are between the calipers or pads?

If you have somewhat stock engine, I'm not sure that either one is very well suited for you, but that depends on how much boost you intend to run. The second one has an appropriate compressor, but the A/R of the turbine is more suited for a 2.0L motor - the stock Z turbo has a t3 with a .63 or .67 A/R. The first turbo may be better for you, depending on which TO4E it is. 60 is probably too much, the other TO4E compressors will probably be OK though. FWIW (I'm not the expert).

Nope