SleeperZ

Locutus - If you are interested, I have an AC compressor from an '83ZXT junkyard motor (taken out of the yard last month) - no idea as to the condition - you can have it for $20 plus shipping. I can probably dig out my old dash core from my '78 as well.

That's what I did - took out the core inside the dash, took off the compressor and the hoses and the radiator bit too. Now I use the holes in the firewall for my extra gauges and fan control.

I'm putting together a junkyard L28ET with a P90A, and it has dual valve springs. BTW, unless I'm hallucinating, this P90A doesn't have hydraulic lifters - looks identical to my P90.

The knock sensor is very high impedence. If it's shorted it's bad. The only way I know of to test it is the way I tested mine - hook it up to an oscilloscope and rap it on the bench. If you get a waveform on the scope, it's good. If you leave it unplugged, the ECU will not see any knocking, and this applies to a 300ZX ECU as well, that's the only way I got rid of the error code was to leave one terminal disconnected.

I've removed the bumpers, shock mounts, and the AC system from my '78. I am running the 6 spoke factory ZX alloy wheels (light!). I weigh 160, and my Z+me weighed 2780lb with 1/2 tank of gas at the strip. Can't say specifically what the bumpers weigh (I reckon both weigh close to 120lbs) - hope this helps.

Good point iwish, but if you go SBC, you have to do a totally built motor from the get-go to match a stock 2JZ -- seriously, this motor is as legendary as the RB26DETT motor -- can you say 600-700 hp on a stock block?

When you sell an item on Ebay, there is a checkbox indicating whether or not you will accept escrow, and the default is "yes". I would think you can access the transaction, being the auction winner, to check the status. Escrow would be a very good idea, and if the seller won't accept it, watch out! Any reasonable seller will accept it, I wouldn't sweat it too much.

They made turbo ZXs from '81 to '83, and any of them is a good donor. They don't seem to be that rare - I bought my donor car for $750 (bad body damage), and I just bought a scrap yard motor for $150. Keep your eyes open - it is a good idea to buy the whole car, as it is not too hard to swap over all the electronics to get it running, then go aftermarker later when you want to increase the performance.

I could be wrong, but I think the truck diff is a R180.

Check out Andrew Bailey's site. He has all the time slips from Hybrid Z'ers posted, L28 motors included. http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/Times.html

Just curious... Why do you need that much width? All the Z road racers I know run a good sticky compound 205 width to 225 or 235 width. If you go much wider it's hard to pilot the car on the street thats for sure, and more width doesn't (IMHO) help very much with added grip. I know this goes against common thought, so don't flame too hard

1 Bar sensor? If I'm not mistaken, that will not register over atmospheric. For anything up to 15 psi, you would need a 2 bar sensor, and over that you would need a 3 bar sensor for boost up to 30psi. If you want to run more boost than the sensor can handle, you will either run rich at lower boost levels or lean at the higher ones, depending on how you write your map. IMHO, this defeats the purpose of running the SDS, which is to precisely meter fuel according to boost and RPM.

The reason you can't use your 240 tank is there is no return line or baffling in the tank. The FI pressure regulator requires a fuel return to properly regulate fuel pressure. The 240 tank can be modified, but I've heard folks have problems with fuel starvation on acceleration or corners because there is no baffling in the tank. I believe a '75 Z tank will bolt in - just get one of those, a turbo pump and the fuel lines, then you'll be set.

Cost me $750 and change. That was for the whole turbo car, with bent chassis. Transplanted the whole bugger into my 280Z, electronics, tranny and all. IMHO this is the easiest, cheapest and one of the best performing turbo swaps for the Z and ZX there is.

Yes it can, I've seen it done repeatedly. The key here is to control dentonation. At these power levels, this involves very good control of the fuel mixture (no rising rate regulators here) with a good aftermarket EFI system. You must have a good intercooler, very low pressure drop, so it has to be big.

Did I get the nomination???? Anyway, the stock L28 motor can handle quite a bit of boost, but the best way to specify it is not in terms of PSI, but more in terms of horsepower. The stock turbo motor can handle in excess of 400hp reliably. The trick in maintaining reliability is thermal management -- how low can you keep your intake temperatures? A stock 280ZX turbo is going to have trouble providing useable boost over 15psi. An upgraded turbo, say a T3/T04E, can keep the intake temperatures down (with a good intercooler), and you can run 20-25 psi boost on a stock motor. So the real answer is a question, how much boost can you afford?

Actually, the crankshafts are identical - the automatics have a tightly fitting spacer capping the end of the crankshaft to fit the flexplate. You just need to remove, add a pilot bushing, and bolt up the flywheel.

Looks very nice!!

I'm not putting down the power like Scotty, but like him I run a 3.90, and this has got to be the single upgrade that made the most difference in the performance of my turbo Z. It is much easier to drive in traffic, and the off-boost performance is much improved. Maybe because my exhuast is only 2-1/2" I don't get the most on-boost torque that can result from the greater torque load the 3.54 puts on the motor, but I sure don't notice any holding back when I get into the throttle. The 3.90 is also perfect for my T5 gearing - with the 3.54 I wasn't shifting into 4th until right at the traps, so it was either hit the rev limit or shift, both hurt my 1/4 times. Now 4th gear is useful, and it still cruises nicely in 5th.

I have one word for the speed sensor theory - nope. The speed sensor is used only for the cruise control. I originally hooked it up (it's not too hard to install it in the speedo), then I ripped it out, and no difference. I know of several people who have done the turbo/stock electronic installs - none of them installed the ss. If you haven't verified you have good plug wires, cap, rotor, plugs, make sure of that first. The AFM connections should be clean, and check the FSM for the procedure on verifying the proper operation of the oxygen sensor.

The ferrule grips the tube when the nut is tightened. If you pre-crimp it, it will never seal. I tapped my intake manifold for the 1/8" NPT and ran a direct tube to my boost gauge. I'm sure you can dig up some hardware to splice in to an existing vacuum line - the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line comes to mind.

For my front brake upgrade, this is what I spent: $28 Junkyard calipers ('79ZX) $80 New '84 300ZX rotors $35 Machining down OD on rotors $20 Rebuild kits for both calipers $20 New semi-metallic pads ---- $183 I also replaced the front wheel bearings and seals, as well as using some jy 240Z hubs -- these expenses were another $50-$60. I will also be changing the master cylinder, as there is too much travel in the pedal for my taste.

ATM, I am being extremely cheap. I am going to get some 280 stubs as well, who knows, maybe I'll try to graft the two together and make my own CV conversion, heheh. Since I'm getting laid off, and I have a kid going in for major surgery soon, I'm enjoying some time at the Pick-n-Pull - no one else is pulling stub axles, that's for sure!!

It must be running extremely rich. There is no BCDD on a turbo, so don't bother looking for that. Check your fuel pressure - I've had a pressure regulator go out that exhibited similar symptoms. Make sure the head temp sensor is working properly and verify all sensor connectors and ignition timing. It's also possible you have a bad injector or two - they could be sticking open. Once you get a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, check to see if proper fuel pressure is maintained when the pump goes off with the ignition.

You know, I pulled stubs out of an '83 ZXT the other day at a scrapyard. I had no trouble with that nut. I jammed the lug studs with a long crowbar, put a 4' gas pipe over the end of my 25" 1/2" breaker bar, pulled up hard, and it turned right off. The other side came off as well, no problem.