SleeperZ

I'm running NGK plugs one heat range colder than stock, gapped about 0.035". Haven't felt any missing like I would occasionally feel at the stock gap. I do have a factory ignition system though - be nice to upgrade and keep a big gap.

Sorry Bastaad, I thought I knew who you were talking about, but the fellow I read about on Supraforums was running an IC. There seems to be quite a few people doing it. Personally I think taking off an IC is just plain stupid, but methanol combined with water or other alcohols is fairly effective for controlling detonation, and may be a substitute for race fuel. I like to keep things simple though, and adding another pump and fuel is just asking for something to break down. Two pumps and two fuel injection systems double your odds for failure I was trolling Supraforums, and all I found was one fellow who was intending to build a methanol system and remove the IC, but I didn't run across anyone who was actually doing it. I know you don't make this stuff up.

Wow - I knew the 50 trim was efficient in all the right spots, but 16 psi, NO IC?! That's my dream street turbo, I can't wait to hear how it does once you get it all built. Jersey

Lol! A stock T3 might be able to push 20psi of boost at the compressor housing, but it sure won't be enough air to make 450hp (400rwhp), hot or not. I tend to agree $4k will not normally get you 400rwhp, but it most likely will get you to the 350rwhp point.

This is new to me about the difference in cams between P90A and P90. Yo, how did you find this out? I have a Nissan re-manufactured L28ET in my Z, with a P90A with solid pivots. Makes me curious how I can optimize my setup... FL327, I'm not sure how the difference in the '83 inital ignition timing advance has to do with a camshaft timing difference, but given Yo's info about camshaft timing, they could be related I suppose. I have my cam timed straight-up, and I plan to swap on my old P90 soon, but I may play a little with initial ignition timing.

Those results are excellent. It's very interesting to me to see the differences in the Z31 and the S130 ECUs; makes me glad I did the conversion - the Z31 has much better control over the mixture it seems.

"Easy" depends on your ability to tune and fabricate, but the stock motor is capable of it.

I'm curious, maybe Stony can chime in, but how much power can that engine make on stock twins? 600hp sounds like a whole lot. That is the stock turbo setup isn't it? At least it's the stock plumbing, right? And the reason people put that much power into a car is because they can, that's it. Makes it harder to drive the car, but hey.

Those are some great numbers, especially considering it's a basically stock system. The a/f ratio is quite interesting - I'm wondering what your impression is driving the car. Does it seem sluggish through that extremely rich range? I also wonder if that a/f ratio is typical of the 280ZXT ECCS...my 300ZX ECCS a/f curve is much flatter; varies between 12:1 and 12.5:1 all the way to 6k rpm. Heheh, you know the first step towards curing your addiction is to admit you have a problem. You are still in denial!

One of the reasons you have already covered. There are lots of turbo options, and several models to cover, S30, GS30, S130, GS130. Not a big enough market for a high-end exhaust, even for just S30s with a stock turbo.

Hey we are close enough to race each other, maybe this could turn into a friendly rivalry. I should be ready by springtime to head up to Denver and see what you are up to. I'm looking forward to it. It's hard for me to get out, work and family...

Not OT at all. All you have to do is hook up a voltmeter to the signal into the ECU, and monitor what the value is when you open the flap. Then drive it and see at what RPM, full throttle, the door maxxes it's value, if it does. Sorry, I can't participate - I ditched that piece of junk years ago.

I just tapped out my thermostat housing to accomodate my Autometer water temperature sensor. I tapped 1/4" NPT for that though, 3/8" NPT is big; are you sure you have to get a sensor that big?

Poke! I like my stock unit.

Well said Jersey, I feel the same way. Why spend $200 for something you have to throw out when (not if) you want to make more power. I try to put my money into parts that can support more power than I need at the moment, so I get at least 1 season of use out of them. And one might think that "all you have to do is install an FMU" to make more power is mistaken. There is tuning involved, and you'd better do it on a dyno, because that motor's going bye bye if it's not adjusted right.

Yes, and like JohnC was saying, each cylinder as well as each engine is different. It is wise to run a bit richer to avoid problems. In addition, the extra fuel can help inhibit detonation via it's cooling effect. Using the wideband on the dyno, my a/f mixture was between 12.5 and 12 to 1 over the whole rpm range of WOT - gives plenty of power, and some margin of safety considering I have a modified factory ECU.

You are, of course, free to modify your system anyway you choose. I just posted a response in this thread http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=29016&start=15 regarding the "FMU" as it applies to Nissan ECUs. BTW, It is very cheap to add bigger injectors - I am running Mustang SVO 370cc units I converted to a barb fitting. I spent $7 each for them, and bought enough to flow test and have spares. These Ford 2.3T cars quite literally "litter" the scrap yards.

Bastaad525, I did quite a bit of pontificating on the subject on some of your own threads, as well as Jersey's. All I can suggest is to do a search on some previous turbo or FI threads. As it is a very important point that still seems to be missed, I'll try to make it again. If your ECU can directly measure air, screwing with the fuel pressure (as in "FMU" ) will only confuse it. This will hold true unless you have saturated (exceeded the limit) the air measuring sensor (AFM, MAF). Then you can add a RRFPR, but you will still not be able to tune it correctly, because your ECU will do some of the fueling at boost. You will have trouble with the "FMU" because it starts messing with the fuel pressure as soon as manifold pressure rises above atmospheric. The Nissan and other ECUs that measure air are straight-forward to modify for larger injectors. The AFMs can be tightened, or run in parallel (popular with MKIII Supras). The MAFs can have air bypassed. It is NEVER as simple as just "adding more fuel", that is a dangerous and un-scientific way of approaching the problem. The RRFPR is only a bandaid to get a marginal amount of power out of a system with stock injectors in a ECU that was never designed to be boosted. Can you say 'HONDA'? I'd be happy to debate this issue futher, with Alex, or anyone else. But I speak from experience. Not flaming anyone, just trying to keep it civil, professional, and free from hidden agenda.

I know I sound like a broken record, and I'm not going to repeat my argument against using "FMU"s for Z cars. Suffice it to say for a speed density system not designed for boost, the RRFPR is a good fit. For a Z car with an AFM or a MAF, it is not. Lots of people just install the larger injectors, upgrade the pump and adjust the AFM, with excellent results. Installing the RRFPR will result in a "chasing of tails" and non-ideal fuel mixtures. I'm not trying to sell any products here - I want to keep people from wasting money on un-needed or inappropriate "mods".

You're referring to the cartech RRFPR right? Why do people call them FMU's... confuses everything for me I'm glad you said that though that's exactly the setup I'm getting close to 'settling' on... the more I learn the more it seems this setup will work just fine on my stock setup running higher boost. Honda's use "FMU"s, and that's what the setup is good for. There are better options available, but it seems as though Alex here is a one-recipe kind of guy.

Considering all the labor involved and the quality of your parts, I think you did ok money-wise. You need to check for leaks in the intake, especially your "BOV". If that is set soft, it will leak, and you won't build much boost, and it wil taper off like you describe. A bad pop-off would do the same thing, but you'd hear it, and 5 psi would be too low for it to release on you. Just because the return to the turbo intake is flexible from the bypass valve, it will not cause a lack of power. Mobythevan is right on in his assessment of the boost drop as well. The IC will restrict the airflow slightly, and if you are still controlling boost off the compressor housing, your manifold pressure will drop.

Stock injectors work well with stock EFI, especially if you are limited to 300hp.