SleeperZ

When reading this, keep in mind it applies to the factory Z. The ECCS used in 280ZXT and Z31 is different in that it doesn't use a WOT contact, and needs no tachometer input (the ECCS controls the ignition using a crank angle sensor).

As far as I know, the switch closure merely tells the ECU to use the idle map to run the engine. That should mean no ignition advance, and a lean, limited fuel map. Obviously the engine should run better with the idle switch open - it's designed to. If it won't idle properly with the switch closed, there may be something misadjusted, but why worry about it? It's just another emissions device, and if it's not working, why use it?

It makes sense in the context that both Yo and I made that power with a stock fuel system and the Z31 ECU. Maybe it's not the injectors that limit you, but the 280ZXT ECCS.

I've seen the pictures before, right after the show. Very nice car. What sort of carburation are you running?

Yes.

Just plug it, that's easiest. I originally modified mine by installing a second spring inside the first - I got the new spring from an old 240SX turbo pop off valve. It then vented about 12 psi.

Before you shell out your hard earned $$, I was looking for an HK$ FCON, and heard they have older versions to steer clear of. Reason being the MAP sensor is often not included, and the older version of the MAP sensor is NLA. So an older PFC FCON without a MAP sensor may be USELESS.

Just look at the top picture in my (outdated) home page (www link). The horns had to move all the way over to the passenger side, but you should get the idea.

Yes, several times.

Which Supra had a 5MGTE engine? My impression of the earlier Supras (MKII?) is they had a solid axle...?

On a factory turbo with no mods, adding an IC can only increase your safety margin. The reason is the amount of air into the engine does not change. The boost pressure is regulated at the turbo compressor housing, and the IC is installed after that point. You are not increasing boost or air mass, just reducing the temperature of the air. Oh, did I already say YOU WILL NOT HURT THE ENGINE BY ADDING AN INTERCOOLER?

I did. I installed a dual tone air horn, really gets people attention. People get pissed when I honk at them.

Did you check for oil coming out at the turbo end? Maybe your oil line is plugged or coked?

Most people who install an adjustable FPR say "I want more fuel at boost". So they dial in more fuel pressure, and run richer across the rpm band, and possibly avoid detonation at the top end because of the cooling effect of additional fuel. This isn't the reason I use an adjustable FPR. I installed on in my car because of my new MAF setup. I installed the MAF sensor in a larger pipe, which is essentially the same as tightening a spring in an AFM. The effect is the air measurement is smaller for the same amount of air, and the result is less fuel is injected - LEAN. But if you install larger injectors, you run richer. Combine the two, and you balance out the two effects. The only way to fine tune this balance is with fuel pressure. I used a wideband on a dyno to dial in a 12:1 a/f mixture with 43 psi static fuel pressure. I would like to think I did not succumb to superstition or hear-say, and bought an adjustable FPR for the right reasons.

Yes. I'm being conservative. About 2 psi more to run the same equivalent air mass.

Lol! It will probably not break. That sounds like the most ghetto job I've ever heard, I like!

Have you ever heard the phrase "it takes money to make money"? Instead of think about how much the turbo system weighs, think about how much extra power you will need to not notice the weight. My car puts out 1 hp per 8 pounds, so to overcome ?50? extra pounds, the turbo would have to make about 6 hp over your n/a engine. Do you think you can afford the weight gain?

It's BS. Stock regulator will regulate fine at least to 14 psi boost. Many others have run upwards of 20 psi with a stock FPR. I've replaced mine with an adjustable one now, running 16 psi with a custom fuel rail and bigger injectors.

Can't hurt to try, but I was under the impression the ECUs from the Zs to the ZXs were quite a bit different. That doesn't mean the AFMs are, but there's a good chance they are different.

I've used the cam, never had any overheating issues with it. How is your ignition timing? Is your radiator getting old? Are you running a good fuel mixture (not too lean at idle and cruising)? I did run the cam dialed in, not advanced or retarded....

It may be a cheap mod, but what's the point? The stock regulator bypasses enough flow for a Bosch pump at stock pressures - that's all it has to do. Your worst case flow conditions for a regulator are at idle when it has to bypass flow almost all the fuel from the pump (low pressure is when you get greatest flow from the pump). If you are intercooled, you can EASILY run 12 or 13 psi at sea level with stock fuel system. Get a cheap Bosch or Walbro hp pump. The next upgrade is fuel injectors. Then it gets expensive.