SleeperZ

pallnet - that looks sweet! You should get a good offer for that. I made my own out of the AZ Speed material as well, but I'm a little sloppy and just made mine work with hose barbs; potential to use the SVO or the RX-7 injectors (similar injector design to the SVOs, Bosch). I also put AN connectors in the ends of mine, and mounted my gauge in the pressure regulator on the right fender. I had drag racing in mind, and put in steel-braided hose.

I'm using 6 Bosch 370cc injectors from Ford 2.3T cars. They cost me $7 each at the scrap yard. A light modification to the inlet plastic, and they will clamp up to the stock rail, and work well. But I'm a cheap bastard.

Not in the true definition of a rising rate. All electronically fuel injected engines use a manifold referenced pressure regulator. A rising rate unit is a big pancake thing used in conjuntion with your stock "manifold pressure referenced" regulator to raise fuel pressure HIGHER than 1 psi per psi boost. It's a regular old fuel injection adjustable fixed rate pressure regulator. And I think it would do a good job in a factory EFI setup provided you are not running a maxxed out system. Under no circumstances EVER get a pressure regulator without a boost reference. edit: The specs on the MSD are a little misleading. They spec a flow rate in single digits of gallons/hour; completely inadequate for the flow of even a stock 280ZX n/a fuel pump. I suspect it's incorrect, and the FPR works fine, but it kept me from buying one last winter. I went hog-wild and bought an AEM Universal. That is a nice regulator.

Sounds very similar to my setup - you will have fun I guarantee.

My first 280ZX donor had the original turbo in it at 180k miles, and it worked fine. It all depends on how you drive it and how well you keep up with the oil changes.

Did you borrow that line from the radiator cooling people who caution against pulling the thermostat? Again, all a restriction is going to do for you is create a pressure drop resulting in more heat in your intake charge.

Simply put, diesel injection pumps are difficult to modify for large power outputs. What they already have is a surplus of air (diesels inherently burn lean), so adding a high octane fuel results in massive power increases.

I wonder how that engine compares to the Viper engine, hp and torque - wise..? Love to see someone shoehorn that into a Z.

I guess I just know a local turbo Buick guy who complains about the IC. He's got a Duttweiler neck upgrade, but he's also got the capability to run 600rwhp as soon as he can figure out how to tune the thing without blowing his tranny out (again). My statement disparaging the GN IC is just based in lack of confidence of OEM intercoolers in general. My Spearco is quite small, 2" inlet and outlet, but is capable of 625 cfm and running 11s in a Z, so I tend to compare from that point of reference.

Hey Shane, how's that beastie been running for you down in the flatlands? We at HAI sure miss the show your car puts on; I'm afraid mine isn't quite up to filling your leftover shoes yet. I did get my 12 finally though

I'm not sure it's much better. At least a stock one is reputed to have a restrictive outlet, and the popular upgrade is to have a larger one welded up. If I'm not mistaken it's a tube and fin type, supposedly more restrictive than the bar-and-plate style from Spearco.

Rear end looks way cool, but doesn't the front end look a little Viperish?

Does the car have a throttle? If so, maybe you bypassed it by removing the turbo, allowing unrestricted air into the manifold...but turbo diesels are different animals indeed.

Pretty sure ScottyMIZ posted pictures of his, back when he ran one.

I can't think of any theoretical differences between forced induction and naturally aspirated flow goals. All of the same parameters are considered: volume of flow, pressure drop, velocity of flow. Forced induction is more forgiving of intake flow restrictions as it can compensate by raising boost pressure (within reason). Another difference, and I'm not sure how it plays out, is the exhaust flow design. Scavenging can be desireable n/a, but I don't know if it applies to exhaust flow into a turbine.

Depends on whether the engine has a throttle. My commuter car has the accelerator linked to the injector pump, and has no throttle. Without a throttle, a BOV is pointless.

That IC looks like it'll do the trick. 3" looks tough to plumb - I saw Shane's install in person, he actually cut into the inner fenders to clear 3" IC plumbing. Good luck!

Calculate the peak current using a 14V source (the charging battery) across 2.7 ohms = about 5A. To hold it effectively, you could easily scale back to 1 or 2 amps, but I don't know the design "hold current".

Electrical problems will not cause overboosting. You should get a boost gauge to verify that is what is happening. Unless the car is really misbehaving, like missing or dying, your computer is probably ok. Overboosting is most likely your wastegate controller or wastegate not opening.

Not sure why he won't accept escrow... Love to hear what he has to say to your proposal.

The amount of heat you need to dissipate to get the temperature down is going to be proportional to flow (or mass). So you can afford to run in a less efficient part of the map, as this should not be taxing to you intercooler. Depending on how you intend to run your engine, on setup would place your maximum power in the most efficient range (for drag racing). Or if you want best streetability, you might consider putting the efficiency in the middle of your flow range...your intercooler should be able to handle running out of the efficiency once in a while on a WOT excursion.

That's an excellent post and point you make Tony. The factory ZXT ECU would seem to have a fairly low limit that is reasonably remedied with a RRFPR. I'm rather happy the factory Z31 ECU works so well - it seems to be better matched to the 260cc injectors.

Hear, hear.

That's why I recirculated my 1st gen. DSM BOV. If it happens to leak off boost, I don't care, as the air is still in my intake. I don't have any issues with boost pressure, so I know it's sealing at boost. What "arm" are you talking about?