SleeperZ

Those don't even look close to dead!

Search and ye shall find.

Battery voltage is always present at the injectors. The injectors are turned on by the ECU pulling one terminal down to ground to get the current flowing. How are you measuring continuity? The injectors themselves have very low resistance, and can be mistaken for a short (~2-3 ohms).

There are a lot of people here who can probably identify with the mechanic problem, that is, the problem of having someone else do the work for you. What I have found is, no matter how good or dedicated your mechanic is, the work will never measure up to your expectations. This leaves you with a choice. Either lower your expectations of the car, or learn to do it yourself. I, for one, have not taken my car to a mechanic for 3 years, and my Z hasn't been to one, including fast lube places, for going on 9 years. You have to deal with the frustration of having to learn how to fix these things, but the rewards are worth it - you can meet your own expectations. Good luck, and don't hold your breath on getting the mechanic to "make it right."

Connect them to nothing.

heh heh....... I haven't practiced my launches yet because I still had the 4spd and R180. But it looks like this weekend the BW T-5 and R200 will be in, so I'll have to work on that a bit before I head down to the track, since I have the luxury of backroads... Let me know when you are going. I will see if I can meet you - I'm quite anxious to see your car. I will be at Bandimere on the 5th of September and Second Creek on the 6th.

Well, a bad battery will certainly cause problems in the ECU. I tried to start on a mostly discharged unit, and the car was just wacky. Verify the voltage. If it is below 12V, you may have issues. But as far as measuring continuity, you can't reliably measure it with live circuits. Any voltage externally applied will screw with your meter. Start checking stuff with the voltage meter when you are testing live circuits.

At idle you will probably feel a vacuum, as the motor is pulling air from the crankcase via the PCV valve, and yes you have one mounted on the underside of the intake manifold. And you cannot compare the PCV system with a carburated system, as electronic fuel injection measures the air with a sensor, and fires the injectors appropriately. In a carbureted system, as long as all the air goes through the carb, you will be ok. If you cap the valve cover, under non-vacuum conditions the blowby has no place to vent, and you may puke oil out valve cover gaskets and other strange places. Not recommended. I suggest keeping your valve cover vented to the same place it was originally; it's too small for the BOV. If your BOV doesn't leak (it may though), just vent it to atmosphere until you can plumb it right. I built myself a custom intake pipe out of exhaust tubing, with all the right fittings for a fuel cannister vent, valve cover vent and recirculation of my BOV. Find out what others have done, as most will recirculate the BOV with stock EFI.

Either slip the clutch, maintaining your RPMs, or dump the clutch. By bogging it, you lose your boost and hit the dreaded "turbo lag" everyone professes to hate. Keep up the RPMs, that's how to get a fast time with the turbo motor. For me, it's either bog it, or boil it (the tires). And now, the clutch is slipping on me. Expect to wear out clutches and tires.

You are forgetting the other half of the equation - the PCV valve. It is plumbed into the block. If you unseal your valve cover, you create a huge vacuum leak. If you are going to remove the valve cover hose and vent it, vent the block where the PCV hose goes as well, and plug the hole in the intake manifold where the PCV valve used to be.

Personally I love the site, and often feel like I have something to contribute. I'm afraid I would miss VERY MUCH the Turbo, Ignition, and L6 forums. You say "go to the other sites", but have you been there? I have, and there is NO COMPARISON. The information here is consistantly reliable, courteous, and very well thought out. No other site has information or technical experience that even comes close. I am totally with you on moderating the crap out of the site, especially to keep the trolls and spoon-feeders down. But please don't discriminate your membership merely based on the fact folks choose to keep the powerplant that came originally in the cars. I don't go around promoting a purist attitude, and very few other turbo L28 folks here do either. There is too much here to have to root around elsewhere, and too many common interests that bridge the gap to the V8'rs.

Wow! Cool swap!

I am using the gusset set from my '82 auto 2+2 on my tranny with a B/W. Lined up great. Have you tried to swap sides with them? They should fit.

Make sure you didn't wire the MAF backwards, piping 12V into the signal to the ECU. IT TAKES OUT THE ECU. I tried to repair one from a friend, and had no luck finding the problem internally, but it would not read the MAF.

I replaced the nasty stock lines on the factory cooler. Just cut the things off retaining the fittings, got some appropriately sized hydraulic hose from NAPA and replumbed the thing with hose clamps. It's been working well for nearly 6 years. I mounted my oil cooler in the forward section of the right fender - right beside the frame rail, and my air dam duct points right at it.

I have to agree with Afshin, the low vacuum is a side effect of too much much fuel or too little air. You may have one or more stuck injectors - check out how they sound. I think if one was stuck, it might still click, but it would sound differently than the others. Just a thought.

Sweet! Gotta love it when it finally comes together! Congratulations.

For me the injector wiring swap did nothing. The firing order of the straight 6 is different than the VG, and the turbo ECU injector wiring is different too, so I doubt it'd make a difference. Can't hurt to try. If it's running and not puking any codes on you, I would say you are down to the basics - fuel pressure and spark advance.

It shouldn't stumble. But the causes are simple (ignition timing or mixture), it's finding the solutions that's the tough part. My car will not stumble when floored at a low rpm, but the "lag" is there if you can call it that. I call it "off-boost" response, and it just isn't good with a 7.4:1 compression engine. I've never dealt with an '81 with the separate CAS, or I'd try to help out with it. All I can say is you have to find out how to measure the ignition timing; there has to be reference marks on the damper. Turn the motor to TDC by hand, and just see what lines up. Once you know how much it's off, you can set it right.

Drag racing sanctioning bodies do not allow firewall mounting of fuel systems for (I believe) one reason -- clutch and tranny explosions tend to take out components on the firewall, for rear wheel drive. I think in general it is a bad idea to run fuel lines in harm's way, such as behind or in front of an engine where they can get damaged in a crash. Datsun had a reason for running the fuel lines in steel across the engine. That's why I turned to the reinforced, braided lines to run mine, despite the fact I'm a cheapskate.

I've got a set of 6 2nd gen RX-7 injectors ready to test and install if the duty cycle on the SVO units gets too high... Gotta rebuild the test bench, find out how much those babies really flow.

Now that the write-up is in "sticky" form, the information can be kept up to date, and prevent the pitfalls you are identifying. Nice job Drax!

Now that the write-up is in "sticky" form, the information can be kept up to date, and prevent the pitfalls you are identifying. Nice job Drax!

I can't remember my exact calculations, but the 43 psi (base pressure) is actually exactly what I calculated. I used 260cc/min for my old stock injectors, and I flow tested the SVO units at the stock base pressure of 37 psi to 360cc/min. The ID of the MAF was close to 2.8" and the ID of the intake tubing (AWG16, 3-1/2" OD steel exhaust pipe) I used was something like 3.4". I don't know what mixture ratio I was running with stock injectors at WOT, but I believe it was leaning out on me at the top RPM. After dyno testing on 41 psi, and getting a mixture ratio of 12.5:1 - 13:1, I increased my base pressure to 43 psi. I didn't get to check the results on the wideband. I need to make a harness for my portable scope so I can measure injector duty, and I still need to figure the wiring for a used HKS EGT I haven't installed. All of my testing I had about 30% 100 octane mixed with 91, for safety, but I've run straight pump on 15 psi. I've not used up my last tank, so I haven't tried running 16 psi on the 91. I did detonate near the top of 4th gear (all 91 octane) when I'd forgotten to turn on the electric cooling fan, and my coolant temperature was around 200*. Talk about a close call!