SleeperZ

Sounds like a big problem to me. The TPS is on or off.

Sounds like a great conversion. Ought to be lots of parts around for the Ford 2.3s, and lots of folks build them up. I think it would be a nice fit to a 240SX, and tons cheaper than the SR20DET.

Do tell... I wouldn't use either one myself, the flapper sucks. That's why I went with the Z31 ECCS. And the NA and turbo Z31 ECCS are so similar, I think a turbo motor is better off with a turbo ECM.

All the CAS does it tell the ECU where the motor is mechanically. Advance is done electronically internal to the ECU. All you set with the distributor is the initial advance with the TPS closed. The ECU does the rest by timing the signal to the coil. Yes, if your CAS was bad, the car would not run at all. Have you tried what I suggested earlier with your timing? Watch the timing mark when you open the TPS. I don't mean by opening the throttle, I mean by pulling the connector off. If it doesn't move, your TPS may not be working.

Just do it. It's the best way to not have to respool the turbo, and for me it's always good for another tenth or two (but I'm not the best at shifting either.)

My carbon kevlar pads (Porterfield R) dust like mad! But they also are the best performing pads I've ever used...

Lol! Drax is right. AFTER the FPR is the return line. BEFORE the FPR is the injectors and fuel rail. The pump is putting out the pressure, the regulator is passing enough fuel to the return to keep the proper pressure in the injectors. The easiest place to measure the fuel pressure in a stock system is in the pressure line going to the rail.

I'm using a steel strap to hold the nose of my diff down too. I used 1/8" thick by 1" wide stock, and didn't bolt it down close enough to the bend at the crossmember - it is now pulling up from repeated launches. I need to drill a second hole and strap that sucker down! Very nice numbers indeed, congratulations!

It should be possible for a higher flowing pump to overwhelm a stock regulator, especially at idle. If you can monitor fuel pressure while driving, you can confirm that problem by checking the pressure goes down under moderate loads, or verifying once under boost that your pressure is 37 psi plus your boost pressure.

My last turbo engine had 100-105 across all cylinders, and it ran well with no oil burning. The rebuilt low mileage engine I have now tested 125 across all cylinders. As long as you have less than 10 psi between, you should be good to go. By the way, I think compression test pressures are lower at altitude (I'm at 5280').

If your TPS is closed, it will not advance timing off initial. If you know TPS is open, you got a strange problem - the ECU will change timing, even if it's just going from a closed TPS to open, you should see timing change.

If you have the ball and spring type controller, temperature affects them as well. And the way it's built will cause boost to drop with temperature, that's the point I was trying to make.

Jersey, you have a bad pressure regulator. If it's not 38 or so psi with the reference removed, it's bad. And it will cause it to run rich at idle, I know, because I had one do that on me. Caused me to fail an emissions test, and it ran poorly too.

I had temperature related boost issues with my MBC from MSA. It is a bleeder type with a pressure relief valve. It has a spring inside that seemed to lose tension with heat, as my boost would actually rise with increasing under-hood temperatures. Not what I would call an ideal setup. So I broke down and found a deal on a Greedy Profec B and it rocks. Boost is solid, and tunable to reduce or eliminate spiking and creeping.

Ohhhh, so the conspiracy unravels! Was ON3GO's tank allocated to you, per chance?

It seems broken to me too, and here is my experience, albeit with the Z31 turbo ECU. My first ECU swap was an '87 Z31 turbo. I wired it in and it all worked well enough, but I had a bit of popping on throttle lift, just like you. It would get pretty bad on engine braking downhill, but not explosive, just pop-pop-pop-pop-pop.... I didn't have any driveability problems with it, either on the street or the dragstrip. Then I turned it loose on a local road course, and I'd get into it for a few laps, hard braking, hard acceleration, you know. After a bit, it would start stumbling, then if I stayed in it, I would lose engine power completely. If I just coasted in gear with the throttle open, it would eventually catch and run again, but only if I took it easy. I checked the plugs: 1, 2, 3 were great, and 4, 5, 6 would be soaked with fuel; it was flooding with all the throttle lifting I was doing. I tried everything, and the problem on the road course was always there, for two years. I never fixed it until I swapped in another ECU, this year, I got an '86 Z31 turbo ECU. It doesn't have the pop-pop-pop at all, and it kicks butt around the road course. My guess is the ECU has a bad injector driver that will not allow it to shut off in a reasonable time. Like I said,the only problem I ever had was with multiple throttle lifts and very hard driving.

Lol! You know that ECUs (same as computers) only do what you tell them to do..

That is a great deal! I'm anxious to hear how it works out for you, I may be next in buying one.

I don't know who told you that the stock FI tanks won't work, but it's common for 240Z turbo conversions to bolt in a '75 or '76 tank because the old 240Z/260Z carb tanks do not work well. Just a suggestion, as a fuel cell is a nice thing, but I'd recommend getting the turbo engine in and working first before going whole hog on a fuel system upgrade. You will need to fabricate tank mounts, fuel lines, fuel pump and plumbing, custom rail and regulator. I bet it'll be at least another $700-$800 before you are done, and troubleshooting a bunch of problems is much harder than one at a time. I'm still using the stock tank with upgraded fuel system, as long as I keep it filled more than 1/4 tank, I never have any problems.

I hear you Jersey, on the money thing. I have 2 young kids too, and a very limited budget. Interesting on the O2 sensor and how your meter was so far off. But that's one sensor that will die on you, no surprise. The rest of them are very durable, I haven't lost any yet. Of course the air temperature sensor bears on the injector pulse width, but I can't say whether it affects the WOT maps or not, but certainly in closed-loop calculations and trim. Personally I can't stand the stupid flapper AFM, and that's why I got rid of it with a Z31 ECU conversion. The TPS of course is for idle. With zero load, throttle closed, it is indicating to the ECU to run the motor lean for best emissions, and I believe that is not closed loop; runs off a programmed map. So when you come off idle, it switches modes to cruising, and uses the O2 sensor to balance the mixture. There is no input to the turbo ECU to indicate WOT, and that's why you can't hook it up. I'm sure there is a ghetto rig possible, but the ECU just seems to know when you are WOT, and it fuels properly. I don't see a need for it personally.

Lol! If they had actually built one before, I'm sure they would include real pictures...

Stock inlet and outlet lines for what? The tank? A stock fuel rail? Do you mean the size of the stock hard fuel lines? Assuming you are talking about fuel lines, most of the stock stuff is 5/16", or 8mm, including the stock fuel lines, pressure and return. The tank outlet/pump inlet is 7/16".