SleeperZ

If you crank it with the key, make sure to disable the injectors too!!! No need for any fuel to be squirted in...

A tablespoon or so should be good enough, a good squirt from an oil can.

Tha vacuum leak happens when you don't seal the PCV valve on the bottom of the manifold. I believe you said you capped it and ran the valve cover to the intake. Once the PCV system is disabled, and the intake is sealed so all the air passes through the AFM, you can open your crank case/valve cover to the world with no consequences for your air metering.

Have you checked the crank angle sensor? That will prevent the ECU from triggering the spark.

How'd the compression test go? That can be pretty revealing as to the source of the oil.

You aren't hurting anything, but you may puke some oil into your intake if you get a good amount of blowby. This can happen anyway with the PCV system intact, but it's harder for oil to find it's way from the crankcase breather. Why not put a filter on it instead of capping it?

The return line comes directly off the bottom of the regulator. If you route it backwards, you will not flow fuel.

Dude, are you putting this all together without a FSM or Haynes manual? The Haynes is at least good enough to supply most of the nut and bolt torque specs...

I think FelPro's reason for saying "no retorque" is just to sell the gasket as something you can throw in and go. Very attractive to a mechanic who wants to repair the car and be done. With a normal street car, you can undoubtedly get away with it, however retorquing will certainly help and not hurt.

What do you mean, not AWD? I don't think it's as simple as removing the bits, is it? You need to do something with the transfer case (it does have one of those? forgive my ignorance of the drivetrain) -- the AWD eclipse needs internal mods to disable and freeze the front shaft. And regardless, doesn't the oil pan need to be modified to clear the crossmember, even if you are setting back the engine into a RWD configuration?

I like the magazine as well, but I think the technical articles need more scrutiny. The issue before the current one had an article concerning L28 cooling issues, and there were a number of inaccuracies in it. The main inaccuracy was a point the author made regarding an overheating engine and how a lower temperature thermostat would fix it. That only works if the thermostat itself is causing the overheating (and a standard temp 'stat would fix it as well), but that's not the point that was made. Sounds like a miracle of thermodynamics that lowering the opening temperature will somehow enable the radiator to shed more heat.

Put it this way. What will happen to blowby under boost? Just put a breather on it and be done.

A woman calls an import parts warehouse and asks for a 28-ounce water pump. "A what?" says the confused parts guy. "My husband says he needs a 28-ounce water pump." "A 28-ounce water pump? What kind of car does it fit?" "A Datsun." As he writes down "Datsun, 28 oz. water pump" the light in his head goes on. "Oh yes ma'am. We've got 28-ounce water pumps. We have 24-ounce and 26-ounce water pumps too." "Finally," she says. "You're the first place I've called that knew what I was talking about." "Yes ma'am. That's because we're a full service parts warehouse. It's our job to have the parts you need, like a 28-ounce water pump," he says, smiling, as he jots down customer pick-up, Datsun 280Z water pump, part number . . .

I drag race with a fellow who runs his 350Z. I've never been in it, so I can't attest to how it drives, but so far I'm not that impressed for other reasons. His transmission (3rd gear grinding) is going out already, with 4800 miles. It is getting replaced under warranty, but he tells me he knows of another 350Z owner on his 3rd tranny, with only 10k miles. This is supposedly a Getrag unit! On the other hand, this guy drives the heck out of the car. He raced on Saturday winning 14 straight rounds (in three classes), hitting his dial within 0.03 or better the whole time, and you should have seen his reaction times! 0.003, 0.008, 0.002... worst one was still under 0.100.

Not sure how much you have been lurking around before posting, but this site is the place to search when you are looking to fortify the Datsun structure. Seriously, that's all they talk about here. V8's are all about twisting torque, and most V8 conversions end up with some strengthening.

The tach jumping is your best clue. You have an ignition problem. Check your plugs, wires, cap and rotor, coil, and trigger, and all your electrical connections.

That's looking much better Yo! Your first results I thought were too low for the boost level you were running, especially with the bigger turbo. That's about what I was putting down with stock injectors, I think.

I realize this, and I adjusted it until there was slop in the rod. The pedal travel it takes to disengage the thing is so much less than the old clutch. There isn't much thread left in the adjuster, but I suppose I will run it in some more...thanks.

New best time - R/T 0.162 60' 1.944 330 5.558 1/8 8.481 @ 84.08 1000 10.990 1/4 13.081 @ 108.56 Haha, I bet you're thinking "what's this post doing in the drivetrain forum?" Two things: I have a steel strap mounted over the nose of my diff, and it is getting noisier and noisier. The diff is beating it up, and now I notice there is about a 1/2" clearance above the diff and it's vibrating under torque application. I am gonna tie in some more steel and reduce that damn gap, I'm sick of taking it apart - although I need to check to see if my new factory diff mount is sheared - I hope I limited the travel enough to save it. So once that is tightened and quiet, I will hammer the 60' a bit more, and 12s will be in the bag... The ClutchMasters stage 4 clutch is definitely holding the torque, but the release is halfway up the pedal, and I'm used to my Centerforce II release which was close to the floor. So on my powershifting, I was close to hitting the rev limiter. Here is my question: It seems the L28 turbo Z people are using any old pressure plate (Jersey with the 2+2 PP, LJ with the Z32 PP) and the common theme is the ACT modified street disc. I understand this disc is mounted on a sprung hub, and it has 4 or 6 pucks. What could I expect running this disc with the Centerforce II PP? I'm thinking I should get good holding pressure, and the higher friction material of the puck disc should work well - and I get my pedal travel back. Opinions, questions, comments all welcome.

I don't know if anyone knows for sure what is "better". My intercooler is 2" inlet and outlet, so I ran 2" into and out of the IC, then opened to 2-1/4" then 2-/12", then 3", and flared the 3" out to 3-1/8 for my Weber TB. It works great. My suggestion is do what makes sense to you - personally I'd run 2" out of the turbo, flare it to 2-1/2" for the IC, run 2-1/2" out and transition it to 3 before the TB, in whatever configuration that works for you to fab.

Use 5/16" ID fuel injection (high pressure) fuel line and band style hose clamps. Do not use worm drive clamps, they will tear up the hose. If you are cheap like me, start prowling the pull it yourself scrap yards. They will usually only charge $4-$7 each for injectors, and the good Nissan hose clamps come free!

Me thinks you need more bandwidth Post a pic in your album Ditto, I tried last night and today, you have run out of BW. The price of being popular, Jeff!

Yep, I never had the links go bad, but I just never liked them. I replaced them with real fuses first chance I got.