wheelman

Bart, Go to a local hydraulic system supply store and tell them what you're doing, they'll be able to set you up with the parts you need. Be sure to have the correct sizes and material type for the tubing you need to connect or it won't work. I went to my local store and they set me up with 250 PSI rubber tubing for each end of the fuel lines and the correct fittings to tie it all together. I was thinking I needed to use stainless braided but was informed that unless I really wanted it to look nice it wasn't required for the pressures we're dealing with. Ended up saving myself lots of $$$. Just be sure you know the sizes of the tubing, I'd even take the fuel pump module from the tank and a small chunk of the factory lines if you can. Wheelman

The hot exhaust gasses exitting directly from the dp will destroy the muffler. It needs to be far enough away so that the gasses cool to the point they won't burn up the packing and/or the outside of the muffler. Wheelman

Problem with this is I don't have one. I've been trying to determine which to buy but have not found anyone with enough knowledge to really help me. I've looked at the JTR site where they show several with very short descriptions such as 2 pulse (2000 pulses per mile) square wave DC or 4 pulse (4000 pulses per mile) sine wave AC. Then the description for the LT1 is either 17 or 40 tooth reluctor gear depending on whether the tranny is an auto or manual, doesn't mention AC/DC or simple voltage change. I've also tried to search on the net but I must not be using the correct terms because I can't seem to pull up the info I'm after. So I get confused and frustrated and temporarily give just to come back later and start all over again. Wheelman

Tim, Thanks. I'll get the program and the cable. Once I've downloaded the parameters I'll look at it myself then decide whether I want to send it off to you. I went to lunch right after reading and responding to your post where you mentioned the shipping cost so I was thinking about this and realized I was just being lazy and didn't want to figure it out. Well I'm going to give it a try. I also got to thinking after looking at the screen capture that I should be able to measure the pulses per driveshaft rev with my multimeter and use that value. Wheelman

Tim, My intention is to buy the software and cable but I was thinking I'd have someone who knows more than I do create a baseline for me that I could then tweak. I'm speaking out my ignorance concerning how TunerCat works but is it possible for me to extract the data from my PCM send it you via email, you make the first changes and then I can upload it to the PCM and tweak from there? Wheelman

Tim, I might take you up on that but I gotta warn you my setup has a twist, my T5 tranny doesn't have a VSS and I've not been able to determine which to use so I was going to try going without one. I emailed the guys at PCMforLess and they said the PCM can be programmed to work without a VSS. Can you set it up this way? I'm thinking the only thing that will be affected is idle speed on coast down which I think is the IAC. Any thoughts? Any ideas on a VSS that would work for me? I know they are available that hook into the speedo cable but can the PCM be changed to use a different pulse pattern than the VSS in the T56 or 4L60E? If so can you make that change? If you'd feel comfortable progamming my PCM with this twist then PM me your address and I'll ship it down to you. Let me know how you would want me to provide the definition file for you, a disk in the package with the PCM or $20.00 and you download it on your end. BTW: I'm a software engineer so don't be afraid to use technical computer lingo with me. Wheelman

Tim, I haven't done anything to the PCM other than mount it and I thought that because this LT1 came from a Caprice cop car it didn't have a VATS, do you have any info on this? I do need to have the PCM reprogrammed so maybe I should just do that and then try to track down any problems that might remain, what do you think? BTW: Thanks for the help, sometimes it takes someone outside the situation to ask the right questions to solve a problem. Wheelman

Well it does the same thing with or without the MAF. My son helped me verify that the fuel pump is indeed running after the key is released so fuel is not the problem and it appears there are no vacuum leaks, we sprayed all the vacuum ports I plugged with starter fluid with no reaction. I've removed all the emissions stuff (air pump, egr, vapor canister, etc.) but the PCM has not been reprogrammed yet, could that be causing this problem?? I hope this is it as it will be a fairly easy fix. If not then I must've wired one or more of the sensors wrong which is the last thing I want to find. Anyway keep the ideas coming and I'll keep this thread updated with things I check and the results. Wheelman

I'm going to try plugging the power brake booster line, it's a new booster so it shouldn't leak but it will eliminate it from the equation. Post some pictures of your LS1 tank install. After reading the other threads about this I'm thinking I'll want to do it myself in the future. I welded a sump on my stock tank, which was kind of a pain due to pin hole leaks, but I don't like how low it is and the exposed fuel lines in the back. As Tim put it the "Tampon string". Wheelman

FasterByFosta, This engine came from a Caprice cop car so there is no VATS module. I'm going to do a search to try and find the thread where someone else mentioned this same problem. I can't remember if the solution was posted but I do remember the thread. Wheelman

Well I finally got to hear the LT1 run in the Z tonight. Ahhh the sound of open headers, music to my ears!!! Now I can't hear very well but it was worth it. It's been almost 2 years since I started this project and I fired her tonight. Still a ways to go before I can drive it but this is a real milestone for me. The engine fired right away but has the run for a few seconds problem that Bartman reported with his, at least I think it was Bartman. I know it's not the fuel pump because I could hear it continue to run the whole time, at least I thought I could, it is very loud. In fact the pump even continued to run after I turned off the ignition at one point so I'm going to need to trace out the fuel pump circuit to make sure I wired it correctly. Anyway I still need to build the exhaust system so there are no O2 sensors connected right now and I was running it without the radiator just to see if it would fire, so once I get the radiator and electric fan installed I'll spend more time messing with it. I need to move it out of the garage though, it is loud!!! Doin the Happy Dance!!!!! :D:D:D Editted to correct spelling errors. Wheelman

Driftz, Is the car on the cardomain site yours? If so it's a 280ZX and has a much different rear suspension than a 280Z so when you go to research parts be sure you're looking at the correct model. The 280ZX has a semi-trailing arm rear suspension and the 240, 260, and 280 Zs all have transverse link rear suspension. You can debate which is better but they are different which is the point I wanted to make. As for cutting the springs, if you're going to throw them away later anyway I say go for it but you'll definately want to upgrade everything at some point so it's adjustable and very stiff. I'd look at the filler neck and all the vent tubes to try to determine where the fuel is spilling out. It might be a vent hose or it could be that the gasket in the cap is bad and replacing it will cure the problem. Wheelman

Is $250.00 a good price for a TPI setup? A guy I know locally is selling all the intake parts forward of the firewall as a package. The setup includes the following: Upper and lower manifolds Runners Fuel rails Injectors Distributor Coil HEI or ISE module? ECU All sensors Wiring harness Custom programmed chip for high performance 350 Air filter intake tract from the filter box(es) back He says it uses a MAF sensor but I'm not sure about that, when I started to try to get more info regarding this aspect of it he seemed to get his terms confused. Maybe I'm wrong but I thought those systems were speed density. He also said it came from an 89 IROC Z28 Camaro. Wheelman

Bartman, I though you were still using the stock 240Z hard lines. If so the fuelk feed line from the original tank is 5/16" and the vent line you're using for return is something like 1/4". If this is the case I'd run new lines from the new tank to the engine bay so that you are guaranteed to never have a problem with fuel starvation. If I'm wrong just ignore this post. Wheelman

I think I can explain this. It will leave out a few factors so don't jump on me about an incomplete picture here. The amount the boost on a stock setup is generated by the flow though the turbine (hot) side of the turbo which is directly affected by the exhaust system. The waste gate is controlled by the pressure (vacuum) in the intake and the spring, so the gate will open a set amount for each PSI increase in the intake. When the flow rate on the exhaust side is increased the amount of pressure on the intake increases in turn opening the waste gate further which should regulate the intake pressure to the preset value, but the original setting was a balance point between the spring pressure, intake pressure on the waste gate diaphram and the flow rate of the exhaust though the DP and the waste gate outlet which has not changed. This balance point has now changed due to the better flow in the DP which will increase the efficiency of the overall system thereby causing the maximum boost balance point to be raised. At first glance it doesn't make sense but after a deeper examination you should see that it will do exactly what Bastaad525 has stated. I'm not a turbo expert so if I'm wrong here please correct me. Wheelman

I would grab that braided clutch line just in case. I remember seeing a thread on here where a guy said he was able to make a Camaro clutch master cylinder work but no pictures. It may have also been an 80s series Camaro so do a search. Did you grab the cruise control module? I would take it also as well as all the radiator hoses and the electric fan(s). Can't think of anything else right now but I'd grab everything you can unbolt and then sell or toss what you don't use later. Wheelman

What is the car you're planning on putting it into? How much will a 5-speed for the VG30DE cost and how hard are they to find? Will the older tranny stand up to the HP you plan to make? Seems to me you already answered your own question when you say you'll replace or modify everything except the basic block. Unless the search for a 5-speed that's compatible with the VG30DE turns out to be a lost cause then go that direction otherwise the VG30DETT will eliminate that variable because it comes with one. The real question is "How much is it worth to you to have to search out a tranny for the VG30DE?" Wheelman

It appears from the pictures that you're using the stock 71 fuel lines, is this true? Are you sure they will flow enough for the current 350HP and for the expected 500HP? I'm asking because I went to the hassle of running 3/8" feed and return lines for my LT1 which isn't going to put out as much power as your motor. I did this because I thought I had learned that the stock 240Z 5/16" feed and 1/4" vapor return line would not handle the required flow rates and either starve or flood your engine because of the restricted feed and return capabilities. Does this make sense? I'm beginning to think all I had to do was replace the 1/4" return to prevent fuel pressure buildup and use the 5/16" feed. Any thoughts on this? BTW: Good idea to rob the baffling from the Supra tank and also good advice about welding on a gas tank without knowing what you're doing. I welded a sump on my stock 73 tank and was very nervous doing it. Obviously I didn't have any problems but it was nerve racking. Wheelman

The ones we were drinking when my buddy had his problem were called Jelly-Beans. They are made with Grenadene, Galleano and Tequila I think and I'm not sure about the spellings either. Anyway you start by pouring the grenadene into a shot glass then layer galleano on top and then the tequila which you light on fire. You're supposed to blow out the flames before drinking it but my buddy forgot and gulped the shot all at once still lit. It burned all the hair out of his nose and some of the 5 o-clock shadow on his face before it was put out. The drinks taste just like a jelly bean if you take the whole shot at once, hence the name. I don't drink them anymore, way to sweet for me and they produce a wicked hang-over. Zhadman, That is great story, I particularly like the "phantom shitter". There were several officers I encountered while in the Airforce I wanted to do that to, this guy just got lucky and hit the jackpot. I'm still chuckling to myself and I will remember this story to pass on to the younger generation. My son is shipping out for Airforce basic on July 17th, he'll get a kick out of it. Wheelman

I watched this happen to a friend of mine when I was in the Airforce. The guy was too drunk at the time to even feel it burning so a couple of us dunked his head in the sink to put it out. Surprisingly enough he wasn't badly burned because of the high alcohol content of the stuff he was drinking. All of us learned a lesson that night about being more aware of just how drunk someone is before giving them another drink, especially one thats on fire. Wheelman

How many of you have traveled by air lately? I just returned from a second trip to Finland several weeks ago and can only comment that something like this ID is just another thing to hassle with that provides no real security. I also have to say that passing from Europe to the US felt like I was entering a zone where I was under suspicion at every single point where my ID or bags could be checked and had to prove I wasn't a terrorist. By comparison Europe was relaxed and sensible about security. Don't get me wrong I'm not America bashing, I love this country, but it really saddens me that things have changed so much. In other threads I have defended the Patriot Act and other measures used to combat terrorism but I have to say I'm beginning to think it's not worth it. There is a very perceptible difference in the attitude of the airport personel between here and Europe. The ones I had to deal with here in the states were surly, rude and arrogant while those in Europe were there but remained relatively unobtrusive. Forgive my rambling, I've had a very long week and it's only Wednesday, back to the subject of this thread. As Johnc stated, this ID will do nothing to provide additional security and will be very expensive. It's a waste of resources and will turn out to be another power grab for beaurocrats. Wheelman

So, do you have a 240 or a 280? There are significant differences in the body strength. A 240 is much more flexible than a 280 and requires more bracing, although the cages you've been talking about will go a long way to strengthening a 240 for any kind of torque you might throw at it. You can use a Mustang or Subaru WRX power rack if you really need power steering but most people report that it isn't needed even with a "heavy" V8 installed. There are several threads on here that discuss this so do a search and they'll show up. As for street racing, just don't be stupid and do it where there are others that get killed because of a mistake you make!!! We've lost several high schoolers in our area this year due to street racing accidents, one kid even ended up thrown through the window of a house when the car he was "riding" in flipped and he was ejected. Wheelman

There is a member here (alsil) who makes a crossmember mount for ford small blocks. You can then use the transmission crossmember from JTR (jagsthatrun.com) to complete the engine mounting. You might have to cut the steering shaft depending on the routing of the exhuast but if you are building a custom turbo setup then you can route it however you want. Do some searches on the Ford V8 forum and you're bound to run across threads that mention Al's mount. I almost bought one from him but decided to go with an LT1 instead. Wheelman