wheelman

72Zcar, The mis-print, if you have one, is on page 2-3. In my manual (seventh edition) the plate on page 2-2 is the passenger side and 2-3 is the driver's side. The passenger plate should have 5 holes and the driver's 6 holes. The driver's side places the holes used to mount the plate/spacer to the block 1 inch lower then the holes the motor mount bolts to. Assuming you bolt it up the way JTR says to. Tim, I had to mount mine with the plates against the block and the spacers between the plate and the motor mount as well. If I didn't the headers wouldn't clear the spacer. I don't think it will cuase a problem. I made my own plates and had to use 3/8 instead of 5/16 because the thinner stuff wasn't available locally. Wheelman

Ivan, I have a pair of R200 half-shafts I'll sell you cheap. I bought them with an R200 from another HybridZ member and have since decide to do the 300ZX Turbo CV conversion. These shafts are in good shape. I'll let you have them for $25.00 plus shipping. If you don't think thats fair, make me an offer. Wheelman

MrWOT, I have to come down on the side of this is not a 1 day job. My experince is similar to yours, lots of engine work, no body or welding experience. I'm in the process of replacing the entire battery box, passenger footwell and drivers footwell on my 240. I have't taken any welding classes but have read a couple books. I'm finding out that welding the thin sheet even with a good MIG using gas and solid wire takes a lot of practice and patience. It's hard to run long beads without burning through and when you do burn through, resist the temptation to immediately try and fill it. I've been working on mine for the last 2 weeks for a couple hours every day. It takes time to do it right. I've made some mistakes and have learned alot but I'm not under pressure to get it done so I can drive it. I would also say that driving it with the frame rails removed or half installed is asking for more problems than it's worth. You are intending the repair the car by removing the rust but run a good chance of tweeking something by driving it with structural members not in place. I also agree with Dan about finding a Z with less rust that won't have complications with smog laws. California is dry enough that if you're patient you should be able to find a Z with much less rust that you would be able to drive and work on at the same time. Just my $.02 worth. BTW: If you decide to buy a welder be sure to get a good one, it will make a world of difference. Wheelman

I agree with BillZ260, read through the posts and based on what you plan for your car decide what you want to do. There is no one answer for all circumstances. I'm installing an LT1 and have the material to extend the frame rails. I'm going to tie them to the rear sub-frame, install a rollbar and put strut tower braces on the front and rear. It's probably overkill because my car will primarily be a daily driver but I want to be able to AutoX and road race so I'm doing the extra. I know I need to comply with the rules for the various racing classes but the engine swap puts me in the "real" racecar classes anyway and who knows I might change my mind about the amount of reinforcing I do. At a minimum I'm going to extend the frame rails and tie them to the sub-frame and install a rollbar. Wheelman

I know this has been discussed and I did a search so don't roast me to badly but I couldn't find an answer to my question. Here goes. Does anyone know how much the pinion flange angle changes when the rubber bushings and/or washers from the top of the mustache bar mount are removed? I'm going to swap out my R180 for an R200, how much will this change the pinion flange angle if at all? I did a test fit of my drive train and was ready to start fabbing the tranny mount when I decided I'd better measure the angles. There was almost a 10* difference in the vertical plane, can't really measure the horizontal. So I dropped the back of the tranny, but it's lower than I want. Right now the tranny points almost straight down the tunnel left to right. If I lower it I will want to push it to the right so the shifter will clear the hole. Am I correct in my understanding that the total drive line angle should be no more than 3*? I measured the distance from the output shaft to the pinion flange and it's 23 1/2". Is this longer than most and how much would it affect the allowed angle? Wheelman

It boggles my mind that anyone would bid on that!!! Unless they're kust running up the bid so no-one else will bid. Wheelman

Bastaad525, Just to address your actual question about measuring for the correct size. The only way you'll be able to verify you have the correct size is to use plasti-guage. To use it will require removing the bearing cap, inserting the new bearings with plasti-guage in the them, remove the caps again and measure the pasti-guage. If you decide to use it be sure to follow the instructions on the package. I'm not familiar with how the Datsun thrust bearings are installed. Some engine's are integral with the main bearings some are not. Either way you'll need a feeler guage that you insert between the cranks thrust bearing surface and the bearing to verify it's the correct size. I also agree with most of what has been said already. I don't have experience rebuilding an L6 but I would pull the engine if I were you. It will save you a ton of frustration in the long run. It will also be much easier to keep everything clean while you're installing the bearing(s) if you aren't on your back under the car. Wheelman

I'd be careful with the weld through primer as well. Welding it produces zinc fumes which can cause you problems. Make sure the place is well ventilated and/or wear a good respirator, not a dust mask, if you can. As for primers preventing rust, I've heard the same thing, they don't. I haven't had any experience with the zinc-chromate so I won't comment on it but I wouldn't rely on any primer as a long term rust preventative. If it will be a while between when you clean it and weld it wouldn't hurt to shoot it with primer to prevent surface rust but not for long term protection. Wheelman

Evil, I'm still working on it. I have most of the battery box welded in and still need to fill in some more on the passenger side footwell right above the seam. Once that's complete I'll cut out the drivers side. I was back under it yesterday measuring the tranny mount for fabrication and found more rust on the drivers side. I'm going to need to cut across at the seam between the floor and the firewall up about 3 or 4 inches and all the way across the drivers side footwell to get rid of all of it. This will give me a good look inside the drivers side frame rail so I'm not to upset about it. I'll post some pictures when I get more of it done. I'm just learning to weld so it's been quite an adventure replacing the battery box. So far it's turned out OK but I need to fill a couple small holes where I burned through. I have a Hobart Handler 135 MIG with gas, does anyone have some advice on how to prevent burn through when welding this thin metal? I have used both solid wire with gas and the self-shielded wire and had problems with both. I also think the regulator I've got is junk. As the pressure in the bottle drops the flow rate increases so I end up using a lot more gas than I should and wasting it. Any suggestions about this as well. Wheelman

love-my-V8-280Z, I still need to deal with this issue, could you post some pictures of how you routed the belt. I'm thinking about building my own bracket out of some 1/4" plate that will replace the AC and PS pulleys and locate them centered between where the original pulleys were. Does this make sense? Wheelman

I think he's talking to Vegeta! Kind of throws a new light onto all that was said in the V8 vs inline 4 thread. Wheelman

Thanks Tim. I'm a Software Engineer and didn't realize that M$ had updated Paint to handle JPG files. That'll teach me to make assumptions about the capabilities of the software included with Windows. I'm wondering if I should go ahead and slot the motor mount holes to allow adjustment of the tranny alignment. I tried to measure it today but it's hard to get under the car. I need to put it back on the jack stands so I can check the alignment real good. I'm also going to have to clearance the shifter hole a small amount but the shifter ended up right in the center of the hole front to back. I have a Camaro bellhousing so the shifter is tilted to the left which causes it to hit the left side of the hole when put into first and second. Wheelman

Here are some pictures of the first test fit of the LT1. The T5 is also installed but I didn't take any shots of it. I did the install in order measure where the tranny crossmember will be. I have been planning to use the Datsun crossmember and fab some hangers to replace the stock ones but I'm thinking it's not going to work. When I measured everything today the passenger side of the CM will be right against the tranny tunnel and the drivers side is pretty far out. I don't like the JTR method but maybe I'll use it anyway. What do you guys think? Has anyone else used the Datsun CM and fabbed some hangers to mount it in the tranny tunnel? Please post some pics of it. Here are some shots of the LT1 in the engine bay. I actually bolted it right through the original Datsun mount holes without slotting them and everything lined up very well. The engine could only go back about another 1/4 inch so I think I'll leave it where it is. The full front shot Left side header, these are Headman Tight Tubes, lots of clearance. Right side header, again lots of clearance Engine bay shot Still alot of work to do but it's getting there. If anyone has some software that can reduce the size of these let me know, my camera was set on high quality and the files are to big, Sorry. BTW I noticed the bottom of the oil pan is about 1.5" below the front crossmember, is this normal or do I have weird pan. The engine is from 1995 Caprice Cop car. Wheelman

Bastaad525, When you were levering on the crank was the tranny in gear? Did you have the E-brake set? If the tranny was in gear and holding the car on a slight incline it might have put enough pressure on the drive-train so that the crank was effectively locked in place. Just a guess. Wheelman

I've got some stuff called Jasco that I used to strip paint/stain from the base boards in my house when I refinished them. I never considered using it to strip paint from the Z until after I read this post. Has anyone ever tried it or something similar? I read the directions on the can and it said to store it in metal containers so I don't think it will harm the car. It worked great on the based boards, they had several layers of paint and stain as well as grime and this stuff took it all right off. I'm going to try it as soon as I'm done welding in my battery box patch panel. I'll let post the results, unfortunately for me I didn't think of it sooner or I wouldn't have spent so many hours using the grinder. On Second thought I'm going to try it on a small patch right now. Wheelman

Evil, What stripper did you use? I've been using a wire brush on my grinder to strip my engine bay and there are spots I just can't get to. BTW, I would go with the POR-15 treatment rather than paint. Wheelman

Mine was pretty well dried out. I used an air chisel to get most of it off and will finish with oven cleaner. The air chisel can leave little marks if your not carefull but they will be covered up again anyway. Take the opportunity to look for rust problems and take care of any you find. Wheelman

The other place you want to check real good is the foot wells on both sides. I cleaned the undercoating from the inside and outside of my floors. Everything looked great until I got to the drviers side footwell where I found the floor was not rusted through yet but was very thin. I used an air chisel to clean the coating from the floor and it went through at the thin spot. I haven't cut the spot out yet becuase I've been working on the passenger side battery box, fender well and firewall. This area was pretty badly rusted so I cut it all out and just started welding the new stuff in today. I thought it was going to be realtively easy but it's not, I didn't practice near enough before I started and I've burned though a couple spots and will have a big job grinding the extra filler flat. Anyway the jist of all this is to be thorough in your search to find all the rust and get rid of it when you find it. Next Z I buy is definitely going to be as rust free as I can find. I live in south eastern Washington which is also a desert environment but gets some snow in the winter so I should be able to find a decent Z if I'm patient. I'm not looking right now but a friend of my son has expressed an interest in having me build him a Z while He's stationed in Italy with the Air Force. Wheelman

The T56 is the only manual trans I know of that works with the LS1 unless someone else knows of a bell housing that will adapt a Tremec TKO or TKOII. I wouldn't put a T5 behind one unless it was beefed up considerably, maybe a G-Force kit. As for the 350 being lighter than the inline 6, that doesn't apply to the old style iron SBC. If you run as much aluminum as you can on one the car will gain somewhere around 80-90 lbs. If you run a standard SBC setup with iron heads and manifolds the car gains around 150 lbs. IF you can find a decent LS1 for 2K you are doing good but you'll need the tranny which will be another 1.5K or 2K. The John's Cars kit is another 1.5K or so. I can't remember but wasn't your budget somewhere around 2K? I guess that just went out the window. Wheelman

Which Whaletail are you running? Is it one of the universal types that bolt to the rear hatch or the old style that is molded to fit the Z? Has anyone tried this or a similar experiment with the smaller 1 or 3 piece rear spoilers? I'm debating about whether to use the smaller spoiler or leave the rear alone. My wife wants the car to be more of a sleeper but I've always liked the old style whaletail and the smaller spoilers. Wheelman

He's not joking, the LS1 can end up being lighter than a turbo inline, especially if you install an IC on the turbo motor. The LS1 install is getting more common and John's cars (http://www.brokenkitty.com) has developed a kit to install one. A Ford small block also has the potential to be lighter than the NA inline 6. If you put as many aluminum parts on it, heads, water pump, intake, etc. The Ford install isn't as common as the Chevy but several guys have done it. The 5.0 engines are easy to get these days and the Ford T5 tranny is also very easy to come by. Ford's AOD isn't as good as the GM auto but it can still be used. Just like everyone else said, the key to an inexpensive install is avoiding the "While I'm at it" syndrome. I thought I was going to be able to but I'm not making it. I decided that if I was going to spend money and time on the car I wanted it to be something I would be happy with and it went from there. I'm still in the process of getting rid of rust but I've acquired an R200 and CV shafts when I had already decided not to go that direction. Anyway my opinion is don't get to stressed about the cost just make sure to do it within your budget and on a time table that will allow you to spend as much money as you feel you need to to build a car you'll be satisfied with. Wheelman

The JTR book doesn't have any info on it other than to say it was more expensive than a SBC swap and had less potential for HP than a SBC. They showed a picture of the engine bay, clean looking swap. Do any of you who've done this swap have any pictures of how you mounted the engine and other information such as transmissions used, radiators, sumps, etc. I live in the states and these 1UZ-FE motors can be had at very reasonable prices. I'm in the middle of an LT1 swap right now but a friend of my son wants me to build a car for him and I've decided I want to use the Toyota engine if I do it. Thanks Wheelman

RPMS, The mistake you're making is assuming it's against the rules to choose the empty door. When you make your first choice the odds are 1/3 because you can choose from any of the 3 with no knowledge about any of them. Once the first choice is made and a door has been revealed you now have the oppportunity to choose 1 of the 3 doors again but unless the revealed door was the car you won't choose it so that eliminates one of the 3 leaving 2, the one you chose and the 3rd door. If you don't change the choice your odds remain 1/3 because thats what they were when the door was chosen, if you change to the 3rd you are really choosing 2 doors instead of 3 because you chose not to pick the revealed door and chose to pick the 3rd, thus making a choice which includes 2 doors making the odds 2/3. We all tend to make the assumption that the revealed door can't be picked but the rules didn't say that, you could pick it if you wanted. Kevin, I wasn't trying to postulate a conspiracy theory but introduce quantum theory into the discussion, but nobody bit on it. I guess it either went right past everyone or it was just to esoteric, it also doesn't help to clear-up the confusion. Anyway no conspiracy theory intended. Pop N Wood, Your explanation was pretty good, I'm not sure mine was any better although we're effectively saying the same thing. These types of questions generate a lot of confusion because they're counter-intuitive, everyone wants to exclude the revealed door from the second choice because we know what's behind it and it's not what we want even though it's a valid option. Wheelman

Having the throttle plate open allows the engine to pull more air in for each stroke of the pistion. With more air in the cylinder the compression reading on the guage will top out in fewer strokes. Wheelman

Looks like a classic case of to much inbreeding. VERY VERY disturbing!!! Wheelman