CarJway

Count me in! Just waiting on some more good news...

Ok, looked at the thread (thanks Preith) and pretty much just cut the shaft where it starts to taper down. But as far as getting the Shaft for a LD28, where could I possible get one. I go to the local Junk Yards often to look for Z's and Maxima's but can not get my hands on them. And if I do, there is usually nothing usable left. Thanks a lot for helping me out. But I guess I am going to do cut it up and throw it back in...

Well I have finally gotten around to put my Turbo Z together. I am running SDS em-4f and need to get rid of the distributor. (since it will serve no purpose) So what I am asking is what did you guys do about the shaft coming from the oil pump to the bottom of the distributor? It seems to be a little loose since there is no support at the top of the shaft now. I know it slides through that little alignment hole towards the top of the front cover, but is that enough? I was thinking of a bushing or something along those lines. Any imput on this would greatly helpful! thanks...

Ok thanks a lot guys.. I figured 6 screws would be enough to hold the pressure plate. Just wanted some imput from other people with this flywheel... don't want it flying off and cutting me in half... : )

Well I am almost ready to do my Turbo swap into my Z and I received my Fidanza flywheel with some issues I think. As you guys know you have to press in the alignment dowls which is no problem but when choosing the correct hole for the dowls I can only get 6 out of the 9 screws to line up. (the ones that hold down the pressure plate.) I will try to explain this as best as possible... The hole that does not line up, is the center of the three screws that are in like a series. Im sure you guys know what im talking about. I bought the Spec clutch for the 240mm flywheel and the fidanza flywheel that is for both 220 and 240mm if i am correct. So is this how the flywheel is supposed to fit? It is only going to use 6 screws insted of the 9 that line up on the stock flywheel? Any input would be very helpful.

It could possible be the Throw out bearing. I have replaced it in my mustang twice only to figure out it is the self adjusting mechanism on the clutch pedal. It's keeping the bearing engaged just enough to keep it spining all day. And by making it spin all day it's taking a crap again. It does have vibration on the pedal also when I let out 35% of the clutch pedal. But this buzz noise it makes does go up as the revs do. Just a thought. Could be way off......

Guess im kind of joining in a little late... But what about Vivid Canary Yellow.. Ford put it on probes for one year in 1993... I saw it today at the paint store... And well now thats what imma paint my Z in two weeks... Heres a paint chip to kinda get an idea.... http://autocolorlibrary.com/cgi-bin/search/searchpic.pl?1993-ford-pg03.jpg carlos

Need to find the perfect yellow to paint my Z.... Then thinking of some mirror's along these lines...... http://www.importfan.com/product.asp?0=0&1=0&3=4737

Hey myth66... Not try'n to steal your topic.. But like you asked earlier. What injectors will actully fit into the l28 manifold. Not worried about the connection of the injector or anything. Going to run after market management system..... Will any injector fit like zguy95135 said or no ? thanks carlos

That Por 15 stuff looks like some good stuff... I will order a kit of that stuff tomorrow and hopefully get that soon so i can put my engine in. Yea, my main concern was this stuff fading and chipping and stuff... But Im going to try this and see what happen's..... thanks for the website cygnusx1.... Hey guys thanks again for your inputs..... carlos

Hey guys thanks a lot for the input. Going to try to get this done this weekend. As for the preping of the engine i was thinking some thing along the lines of sanding it with a light sand paper. Something in 600 and up area. But probally won't try that. Just get it nice and clean.. Guess now the only problem is to pick the right color......

I searched this for a while but never found anyone explain or give tips on what paint they used and what they have seen works good. What have you guys used to paint your engine and what prep work is needed. I know for a fact that everything must be free of any type of oil so the paint can stick. Any certain brands i should be looking for?? thanks carlos

Well took the valve cover off... Chain is tight all of a sudden... I orderded a Factory Service Manual on tuesday so it should be here by tomorrow so i can set the timing and see whats wrong with this thing... I guess i will post tomorrow and see what I find... Hey thanks for all your help so far guys... Really appreciate all the help...

How much play should the timing chain have in it? because i was about to adjust my valves and i felt the chain. I could lift it off like 3-5 teeth off the gear. I think that is just a little to much play. Could this be causing my car to have like a studder, no power along the rpm band problem ? Befor i stumbled along this I changed the AFM and injectors, thinking that was the cause. But wouldn't the chain being so loose cause the timing to be retarded and causing all my problems ? carlos

Yea you can still buy the Fusible Link wires from the dealer ship. It comes out to like 32 bucks or something. I don't have the numbers for the parts but 3 wires are one thickness and one is thinner.

Ummm just a guess... but i had a problem like this and it was my Fusible Link wires... or am i completely off ??? just a thought

Are you serious! Im such an idiot! I thought you couldn't take these cars to get hooked up to the computer! Oh about pay'n to get this checked out isn't a problem. Hey does anyone know of some good shops in Maryland ? Do you guys think a dealership could possible find the problem ? Hey man thanks a lot. hopefully i can have this thing going befor it desides to snow again!!

Hey thanks a lot guys... Im going to try to put plug wires, plugs and cap today but it's kinda antartica cold outside.. I think that screw adjust's idle only now that i search a little more but i will see what i can come up with today.....

Hey thanks guys.... But do you guys have some where to start checking? Im going to start with new plugs and wire's. Then from there start seeing what happens. Yeah and the bad thing about the AFM is MSA said it was bad.. which im starting to doubt very much. i tested it my self I came up with it being bad but maybe that isn't all that is wrong. Anyone have Info on my AFM screw problem.... and any more in-sight on the ignition problem is welcomed... oh and by the way... what are some good spark plugs to buy... ??

Well i just got my Re - built AFM from MSA and i thought this would fix my hesitation, studder'n, no power along the RPM band, jumping tach problem.... But once again this didn't fix anything. I just put new injector's in. New plugs for the injectors, PVC valve and fuel filter. The engine has only 61k on it too... But since i was getting irritated and desperate, i started to mess with the lean - rich screw. Only not to know which way is which. I think it's running way to rich now because of the fact it almost die's when i give it WOT. But is there a way to get this semi back to the center. Like screw it all the way in, then 2 turn's out or something ? And any help on the main problem... hesitationg, studder'n, no power and so forth problem would be extreamly help full......... carlos

hey guys thanks a lot for your help! i didn't think i would get so much feed back! Well i tried taking the TPS sensor off and that didn't really fix it... it had a rough idle and still wouldn't rev. But i just noticed something when it starts to studder, the RPM's bounce around and stuff... werid... *datsunlover* hey i would really appreciate if you could scan that for me.. I took the ohm/volt meter from work so is thier anything else i could check with this.. i herd something about setting up the TPS with a voltmeter or something. Oh and just in case i didn't mention this is a 78 280z.