CarJway

Did you try your local parts store? I bought a locking 'Stant' gas cap for under $15 a year ago. The part number for the cap is: 10583

Jon, I know you were waiting on the axles to be shipped... Any new updates? I am eager to get my hands on a set, once you confirm the prototypes are good.

When available, I will buy a set. My car is awaiting the last bits to be drivable, and the axles are one thing that is holding me back!

I read through all 6 pages of that thread, and they are not even sure if Rota makes these wheels. Or if they are even called 'Fast Forwards'; have you found any sites that actually sell this wheel yet?

I also would be interested in a set of shortened 300ZXT shafts. At the stock ride height, they were already a tight fit and now that I have lowered the car, they certainly bind. I am looking locally for a axle shop to solve the issue, as this is holding me back from getting back on the road.

Well it looks like Creation Z has shut down, along with my strut housings, struts, etc. I stopped by last week, and the stop was empty and I can no longer reach the owner David anywhere...

I am actually going to get my struts sectioned at Creation Z. As I do have access to a welder, but would want someone who has done this before to do this. (Not me) Has anyone else in the Northern VA/MD got their struts sectioned by a shop? Otherwise, I will let everyone know how it goes at Creation Z.

Saw this video today... Good song. And the only way I knew about it, is a friend that said “they have 3 of your kinda car’s in itâ€. Friend still doesn’t remember the it’s a Z.

Wow... That color is sexy...

I joined this forum 7 years ago, when I was 17. (wow, my Z has been on off jack stands that long?!) And it took me 35 minutes to write my first post. I actually didn't post my first question for 2 weeks because I didn't want to look like a fool. But guess what I did in those 2 weeks? Searched this forum up and down. Did it solve my problem? NO, but it did educate me a great deal to make my question an actual question, not a 'spoon feed me please' post. As others have said it, this forum isn't 'Cars 101' but rather a place where car enthusiast gather to talk 'car talk'. If you are unfamiliar with what is being discussed, then go READ. Spend HOURS reading, such as most of us do to educate ourselves with the topics being discussed. With the being grammatically correct posts; I agree some member aren’t from the states, but to all those younger guys that are. There is absolutely NO excuse for not having a grammatically correct thought. I know they still teach how to write a full thought on paper in school, as my cousins are still in high school. Would you just blurt out anything to your teacher, and turn it in? If you would, then good luck to you. But why should WE as a community conform to someone's ignorance because they are lazy...

Wow... I have given you my personal cell phone number, AND even asked to look at your logs personally. Quite frankly gone out of my way to provide any help to you. I ask you questions to try and help you even more with that type of response? Let me ask YOU something. How COMPLICATED is it figure out what triggers YOUR Haltech? It takes no more than 5 minutes to figure that out by following the schematic found online. (Google is your friend) I really doubt you should be asking me if I understand anything, because I obviously understand how to get this set up. Otherwise, I wouldn't be asking the questions I am. That is the first response you have given that provides any insight to the Haltechs actions. I have personally set up quite a few Haltechs and run through the same problems you are currently having. Good luck getting this setup with that attitude.

I am not sure what changing the Dizzy would do? Either the Haltech gets signal or not. And this sounds to me like your just changing parts for the fun of it. If you simply follow the White and White/Black shielded wires out of the Haltech, you would understand what is going on. Either your getting Crank/Cam position from the stock dizzy, or have a custom made crank trigger. Look at your Dizzy and see if wires are plugged into it. If so, what colors etc. Also, I have mentioned to you to give me a log/or settings of your trigger to no avail. This is the screen you need to pull up on the Haltech. If the RPM gauge moves, then it's either Haltech settings/Post Haltech. If the RPM gauge doesn't move, then it's either your trigger settings or the actual trigger device. Good luck.

Okay, it looks like nothing has changed... So the same questions I asked from your previous threads apply... 1.HOW is your haltech being triggered? 2.Once you find that, what specific wires are leading to your triggering device Plug up a laptop, and look at the options that state the trigger type. Also, pull up the sensor/timing display on the Haltech, and see what is happening when you crank. That will INSTANTLY tell you is it's pre/post Haltech issues. Again, narrowing down this problem is quiet simple, but with out knowing WHAT triggers your Haltech... I am just shooting in the dark.

I currently have this in my car, and I have had it in the car since Jan 2010. I haven't driven the car for more than 2 miles, and only started the car about 7 times, and always starts right up. I don't unplug the negative wire or anything. So, I have had good luck with keeping the battery outside, and unmonitored.

bump...

I purchased the rear disc brake brackets in the following thread, but never received them. The only reason I am interested in these specific brackets, is due to the ability to mount SN95 Mustang calipers on them... Bracket Thread So, if you bought a set, and never used them, I am interested.

Getting the car to start/idle/timing setup is probably the hardest thing to do, when you are not familiar with the engine... But this has already been done for the tuner, so the Haltech is like most other EFI's out there. 3D Map, tabular values, 2D Scale, etc. Find anyone that tunes an AEM, and they will have no problem with the E11. There are PLENTY of people out there that tune AEM's.

280zbeeT, Lets cut straight to the chase here... You NEED to do the following to get this car running, or if you want to ever drive this car... The thread should stop here, unless you can verify the following: 1. Get your timing chain timing correct; I read in another post you said that your timing is off. 2. Make sure the timing for your Dizzy is correct. (clocked correctly) This is completely different than your timing chain... 3. GO, get a lighter spring for your Wastegate. I don't know what you have, or I would give you a direct link of what you need 4. Dig into this car and find out how the Haltech is being triggered. I don't even think the Z31 dizzy will fit. Take a picture of the dizzy. I have also mentioned to you before, send me your base map. I also mentioned tell me exactly what color wires are going into your dizzy. I have been around Haltechs for quite some time... I believe a few others are with me on this one, this thread is going no where. We are all what "if'ing" here. Verify the items above, and we will help you to get your car running. Also, at this point, stop worrying about your engine setup if the car doesn't even run. Once we get this car running, then lets jump back onto the TUNING precautions, DUE to a higher compression ratio. At the moment, your tune would pop FORGED pistons. I can't stress this enough, that you need to take this to someone who knows how to tune. Let me rephrase; once this is running, we can all re-comment on what pointers/limitations your tuner should take to make this safe. Again, I am just trying to help here, but we need to get definite answers here... You need to start from scratch, and stop telling us what "He" said. Imagine that dude moved to Antarctica. Open up the wastegate, and figure out if it truly has a 17# spring in it. I am starting to doubt it doesn't, since your watching boost, on a Wideband which measures air/fuel ratio.

280zbeeT, As we have discussed on the phone... I feel like you keep going back in circles, based on the information your "friend" is giving you. Also, I don't think your "friend" knows what an E11 is capable of doing. I get this from the constant mention of "retarding" your timing. You have a full standalone ECU; retarding the timing is not the correct word to use here. The map is simply built around the characteristics of your engine. i.e.: Timing/Fuel will respond a certain way when vacuum is in the manifold, and then the map points will be different when there is positive pressure in the manifold. It's as simple as that, it's really NOT "retarding" your timing, it's just simply how the map is built for your setup. The MSD/Coil you keep referring to is only going to fire when the Haltech tells it too. Stop worrying about the MSD, retarding timing, and focus on the following to get this car nailed down... ****HOW is the Haltech being triggered; I doubt you have a Z31 dizzy, but rather a Z31 CAS wheel as I have mentioned before Without this, I really can’t give you further advice, and you’re just guessing here. Because, for all I know, they could be using the E11 for fuel only. (Which would be stupid) Also, pull down the base map, and send it to me. I will be able to see what you have going on here. Now, the most important thing here… Take this to get tuned. End of story. Take it to a tuner that knows the E11, and you will be done with it. Trust me, with some of the comments you have stated about “road tuning†this thing, you’re going to end up needing a new engine. I will send you my map, and with the current map you have, it will help the tuner get an idea of where he sits. If you want to go over this in a little more detail, give me a call. Again, I am not trying to be harsh here, but I have seen a few threads you have been posting, and don’t want you to end up with a hole in the side of your block. I know how frustrating this can be, because I see it all the time. Just trying to help you get a car you can “enjoyâ€.