Apex944

Last I saw it was reported stolen... I believe it was about 4 or 5 months ago, maybe longer. Something about it being built to look like it does here in Sacramento and then a guy in Chico bought it which is probably the starter of this thread. The starter of this thread probably got tired of it so they sold it to someone back here in Sacramento and then a few months after the new owner bought it it was stolen. Whomever it was made a craigslist post about it being stolen, I don't know if it was found or not though. Here's a link to another thread where they were talking about it... My link

Thanks for the link, I'm actually watching those as a back up in case I can't find a set for cheaper as that's a little much for a set of rails. For $90 I could buy a set of seats with the rails attached here locally and get the seats as a bonus. Still looking for the rails if anybody has a set. I have some part's I could trade if anyone's interested.

Looking for a set of driver and passenger side seat rails from a 240Z. I can get by with just a passenger side set for now but would prefer both driver and passenger sides. Please either PM me or post here. Also please be reasonable with the prices. Thanks

Might want to search some foxbody and SN95 forums to find the differences between your '95 engine and fox 85'-93' engine's. Only difference engine wise that I know of is they have cast hyper pistons compared to the fox car's forged pistons. If going to a T5 trans you will need to research and makes sure you know which trans will bolt to your engine as 85'-93' engines cannot use 94-95' transmissions due to the 94'-95' car's using a different input shaft from the trans so I am fairly sure that the 94'-95' car's cannot use the earlier 85'-93' transmissions. Brian's subframe for the 302 engine is a really great piece, it's what I'm using to put an '86 5.0 HO ( not my first choice engine but was practically free with low miles ) engine into my '73 240Z.

Perhaps the last one Les will make out of carbon, he didn't want to bother with it much because of the little pay off from what he told us but I've got my body guy making a few carbon one's off of the scoop I got with some improvements to the mounting design ( mount's being part of the mold and not clips or globs of resin holding the studs in random locations like mine) and a few other thing's...

To help clarify the pricing, my girlfriend bought a fiberglass one for me from Les back in November as a secret Xmas gift. Said she paid $250 plus shipping for it which was $275 total. ( Corrected by her ) Guess Les changed his mind and will be making them to order as RB240ZDET has posted below. I'm having my carbon guy make me one out of carbon fiber as the last Les told us was he wasn't going to make anymore at all when we talked to him.

It just so happens that while I was at SEMA in Vegas this past week there was a new product out that does exactly what you are looking for, it adapts to the end of the red spray tube that you stick into the nozzle of your normal spray paint can. You can feed it into the body cavity that you need to seal and it sprays 360 degree's of whatever you want to spray it with. The rep suggested their weld through primer with zinc similar to what 240zip said as it allows you to weld and not have to be sprayed with a sealer as it doesn't burn. It's basically an extension that slips over the red spray tube that is flexible with a special spray tip on it that spray's in a circle form to coat the surrounding area as you slowly pull the tube back out of the cavity. Unfortunately I have stacks of information I brought back with me that I need to search through to find the company's name but some google searching should turn something up about it. I'll try to go through the pile of stuff tonight and edit this post with the name of the company and the tool.

Ran into the same issue with the AZC springs being NLA myself not to long ago. Located in the FAQ's section... Installing Tokico 280Z HP Springs in 240Z The 280Z spring's are the one's you want NOT the ZX springs. They are linear for a fact as I have a set of them on my '73 240Z and are the same diameter as the 240Z springs so they are a direct fit. The 240Z tokico springs are progressive front/linear rear which is why people use the 280Z linear front and linear rear springs instead which are 185 lb front 200 lb rear spring rates. The tokico springs are currently the only option if wanting a drop in replacement, otherwise you'll have to do a coilover setup using the threaded sleeve's and aftermarket springs from QA1 or other similar spring manufactures to get anything higher than a 200 lb rate spring. I have not yet driven my car but they should be stiff enough for good handling and a comfortable ride for my 302 HO powered Z. Quick search will show other V8 Z owners that use them and like them as well even with a heavier small block chevy 350 in the car. If you still have the L6 they should be enough spring rate for your liking.

No Search and you will find the same answer.

Looking for an MSA type 1 fiberglass front air dam for my 240Z, can pay for shipping if needed. Located in Elk Grove, CA 95624 Feel free to offer other 240Z air dam's though as I currently don't have anything on the front of my car. Thanks

AZC told me they won't be making anymore of the heavy duty springs for the 240Z for a long time if ever when I called them about a month ago....had a pretty rude tone over the phone as well I might add. I instead purchased a set of the 280Z tokico springs from beta motorsports and according to their spec's they are the same spring rate's as the AZC springs. Seem to work quite well for me but I've yet to drop the small block ford into the car and see where and how well it sit's... Perhaps the tokico's will work for you?

I've got one, sending you a PM.

Looking for either new or lightly used stock 240Z or MR2 Tokico HP/Illumina shocks as well as Arizona Z Car springs or something similar. Figure I would see if anybody had anything laying around before buying another new set as they are only temporary anyways. I'm located in Elk Grove, CA 95624 Please PM me with offer's. Thanks

I've got a set of Enkei 92's with center cap's that I just posted in my sale thread. 15x7 0 offset 4x114.3 I'm located in Elk Grove, CA 95624 Can ship all 4 for about $550 OBO Let me know, thanks

Looking for a cheap 280Z tachometer, hopefully in the $20 - $35 shipped range if at all possible. Not looking for anything perfect, housing damage is ok as I only need the gut's from the gauge. Also looking for a 280Z fuel level/voltage gauge in decent shape. I live in Elk Grove, CA and will use verified paypal for payment. Thanks

PM sent.

I have a good driver's side lock and matching key. The passenger's side won't allow the key to go all the way in but you can have it if you want to try to get it to work. Theyre from a 1/71 240Z. I figure $35 shipped for both lock's and key is fair. Let me know, thanks

Whoa! I think this thread win's for oldest thread revived. Last post was April 25th 2002... As far as what did and did not work, I would imagine the light sanding would take off the outer sun bleached "skin" if you will of the wheel and bring out the red/brown original coloring. Then a nice clearcoat and polish to finish it off. I haven't done that myself though so I don't know for sure, just an educated guess to go along with one of the post's that is further up in this thread. Wors't case is that you took off the rougher "wood" and made it smooth so that you can now re-stain it.

The E88 head with all it's valvetrain would be worth pulling and trying to sell as well as the connecting rod's as they are the commonly used rod's that the 3.0/3.1/3.2 stroker guy's use. Those are really the only main peices that I can think of off the top of my head other than if it has a good starter and maybe the a/c if it has it. I'm in the same boat, I sold off the L24 rod's and still have 1 of my E88 head's left along with the P30? L24 block and all the rest of the engine that I might take with me on my next trip to the scrap yard for a few dollars. Would be nice to keep it in case I feel like being nostalgic and want an original L24 back in the car one day but there's only so much room which is already occupied by my current RB20DET project and a few 13BT ( Rotary Engine from the Rx-7 FYI ) engine's that I have to build for some customer's. Have you tried your local craigslist to see if anybody nearby might want it for like $10 or even free for their restoration project?

I hate to break it to you but those compression number's are impossible to reach on an RB25DET, let alone any RB engine. The maximum PSI that can be reached on a brand new RB engine is 185 PSI on each chamber, at least that is how the Factory Service Manual has it. 13 Kg/CM2 converted to PSI is 185 PSI which is actually only seen on the RB20DE engine. The RB26DETT only reaches 171 PSI meaning it's 12 Kg/CM2 in the manual. I would temporarily hook it up and do another compression test on it as it seem's they put some oil in each cylinder to raise the compression number's to make it look good to buyers. Now i'm no pro but I doubt that the FSM is wrong and that far off of real world spec's. I installed an H22 engine into a family friend's Prelude and it ended up being a bad engine that was dressed up to look good, it was also bought from Venus Auto... Not trying to bad mouth them but they have still yet to impress me with the engine's that they sell. As far as the top end rebuild kit goes I have yet to see one as well for the RB engine, I do know you can buy a gasket kit which would most likely cover the top end and also the bottom end gaskets for later use. I would suggest a new timing belt as well as the timing belt idler and tensioner.

Then what keeps the rear wheel cylinder's from leaking brake fluid when they collapse from the lack of brake pressure?

Good call Dtsnlvrs, definately check your ignition timing before tweaking on your carb. Overly retarded ignition timing can cause high HC and CO as well. I haven't had do do any hard thinking on 5 gas readings in over a year, should pull out my books and read over it all again The only way you can tell if it's improved is if you run it on a 5 gas machine (smog test) again and see if it improved.

I've been using the Falken Ziex ZE-502 and love them, good wear and really good grip in wet and dry condition's. I don't have very much experience with different tire's nor much experience in certain situations such as race track usage but I would give them a 10/10 for both their price and how they perform. I paid ~$230 shipped for all 4 tires in a 205/50/15 size. I had them on my last car which was an '88 Rx-7 T2 and they were just as good as they are on my '73 240Z.

I don't know of any extra valve in the rear of a Z that holds the left over pressure in the back but I know that in the master cylinder there should be a check valve that holds residual pressure of 6 - 25 PSI to keep the seals on the wheel cylinder's from leaking brake fluid when they collapse from a lack of pressure. I just looked in the FSM for my '73 and it doesn't have any extra part's other than the 3 way connector in the brake line system so I'm assuming that in the Datsun Z car's this valve is in the master cylinder like most vehicles have that have rear drum brakes. Now there is an NPR valve that controls the front to rear pressure to keep the rear brakes from locking before the front's so it's basically your proportioning valve from the factory. It has other function's as well but not really worth posting in here when it can be more easily understood by reading about it in the FSM. My guess is that if you switch to the 15/16 master cylinder it shouldn't have the residual pressure valve like the early Z car's had because the ZX, as far as I know, had rear disc brakes from the factory so there was no need for a residual pressure valve since they have pistons instead of wheel cylinders.

Search The information on how to swap the R200 into the 240Z has been covered alot of times on this site. If I remember correctly there's a sticky that covers how to and what parts are needed for the R200 swap and other rearend swaps. Just a matter of time for a Mod to move this thread to the Shed...