Apex944

I don't know if there is a difference between the AC and Non-AC blower motors but the one I got for my Z came from a 90 - 91 CRX if I remember correctly with AC. Perhaps the fan is smaller or mounts different as the Non-AC car should have a different shaped case where the fan would mount to as there wouldn't be an evaporator in the case, just a heater core.

He's talking about using the Chevy rod BOLTS in the 240Z 9mm rods as a stronger replacement. The Chevy bolts are supposed to be an upgrade from stock nissan rod bolts and cheaper than going with ARP bolts. As far as I know you can't use chevy rods in a L6 block...

I also agree that the Greddy RS is more than enough for a street car. I had one on my '88 Rx7 with a hybrid T04 turbo and it was more than enough for that car. I'm sure that the Greddy S type is even good enough for any factory nissan turbocharged car. Find a Greddy S or RS or an equivalent and you'll be set. They are adjustable of course as well as the RS can be recirculated back into the intake to get rid of the lag between shifts and the slight rich mixture that is the cause of the lag.

It does sound like something is wrong. The crank should move extremely easily without any extra's attached to it. As well as really easy when the main caps aren't torqued down yet either. Perhaps the old oil you used degraded into some kind of sticky or gritty like paste? How did you store the crank shaft, on one of it's ends or on it's side? Was the crank ever knocked over while you had it out of the engine? Correct bearings installed in the correct position? Have any dial calipers to check the main journals of the crank for roundness? I would start with cleaning all of the old oil out and trying some good new royal purple engine build oil or something similar and see if that helps. If not then the crank could be bent or a journal could have an issue. Even the block could be slightly warped, but according to the information i've found for the L6 it's not very common for a block to warp.

I've set my valves when cold everytime, as I have also seen that most companies have their valves adjusted only when engine is cold. Especially in the diesel world, every engine we've adjusted valves on the book calls for the engine to be stone cold. Some manuals even say let it sit overnight and adjust the valves the next day so as the engine is garunteed to be cold. I can also see what your saying about adjusting them when hot and having the possibility of the lash becoming too tight and causing damage to the valvetrain. Although as other's have mentioned their results from checking hot/cold measurements were only off by .001 - .002 max from what theyve seen. What I can see though is the different aftermarket camshafts having different heat expansion rates causing the over tight valve lash possibilty to occur if setting them hot. But hopefully those manufacture's are sending the new lash thickness information with their camshafts to avoid such issue's... Guess I can give it a try sometime in the next week or so... Wouldn't be all that worried if something broke as the engine's hanging on a thread already haha. So, set the valve lash when hot then let it cool, check the lash and record results. Reset the lash cold then get it hot and check the lash while it's hot and then see where it's at when it is cold again. I realize there probably won't be much benefit to doing such work as this but i'm curious myself to see how much the lash is affected when setting it hot and setting it cold. ( Although It's due for an oil change and valve adjustment soon anyways so why not tinker with the valvetrain a little more than normal and see what we can find. )

It seems my car's color has came to be known as "Root Beer" according to my friends and everyone else who has seen it in person. I have no idea what the color actually is, one of the previous owners had it painted this color at one point. It was originally the light blue/silver factory color which I would have preferred but the "Root Beer" is starting to grow on me... If I can get my floor pan finished tomorrow and the under side cleaned up and sealed and if the sun comes out I can get some pictures of it and update this post with pictures of the Root Beer Z.

I was tempted to have a bodyshop do my floor pans sometime in the next year or so to save me the hassle, but for $1200 + new pans I will do them myself and deal with it haha. I'm currently putting in a patch on the passenger side floor where the right rear seat mount goes. Previous owner tried to hide a decent sized rust spot... MIG or TIG both work and take the same amount of time, especially trying to weld the new peice onto the old EXTREMELY thin metal... Went and bought some .23 wire for my MIG as the current .35 I use 90% of the time was way to thick to use on the factory floor pans. Burn straight through just trying to tack weld my patch plate in place... Good luck with your new pan's, whichever way you choose to go.

I have that exact shift lever in my 5 speed swapped 240z. I can't figure out what model and year it came from exactly, but according to the transmission case styling it should be from a 1979 280ZX which would also match the L28 that was swapped in at the same time so it would make sense they are from the same car. But of course that's just a guess as I have no idea where the previous owner got the transmission from. The N47/N42 L28 is definately from the 1979 area though. Perhaps it's why MSA doesn't offer a short shifter kit for the 1979-1983 model year cars... of course the few years of cars that used that type of transmission as well as only a forced induction or high rear end geared cars would enjoy using the tall geared transmissions was also most likely a factor as well... I have yet to see any bushings for sale for that type of shifter, really annoying as it flops around ALOT as the spring allows a little play already. It also has really tall gears, it's way to tall for street driving with only a stock L28 and stock 240Z 3.2??? rearend. Going to a 76-77 model year transmission if I can find one local to me.... Good luck on your wrecking yard search

Also to add take a look inside your distributor, the E12-80 distributor the previous owner put in my L28 swapped '73 had a bad bearing in it. I found this out by accident as I was trying to figure out why mine also had a slight miss and the #5 cylinder was barely firing. Pulled the cap off to look around and noticed 3 BB's sitting in the distributor housing down below the trigger wheel. The bearing came apart and somehow didn't lock anything up inside the distributor or make any noticeable noise, but the rotor moves up and down a good bit as well as side to side ( the rotor is nice and tight on the rotor shaft )....new distributor here we come. Just an idea for something to check out if you can't find anything else wrong with it.

A few are having good luck with the Kia Sportage seals from pick n pull, I couldn't find a Sportage so I used 2 1/2 doors from a Kia Spectra. In the heavy rain we've had here so far they seem to be working very well. I had a small leak but it was due to me not glueing? the cut section together at the bottom of the door. Which I have still yet to finish... Here's the link to the thread- http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153925

Heh, I just saw that earlier tonight myself. Was tempted to go pick it up and strip it down and send the shell off to the scrap yard... Only problem is I don't have the extra $250 to spend right now haha Would be nice to see it go to someone who can get it back on the road though, even though it is a '76 ( smog ).

It could work, but the 90 degree corners would be an issue. The roll of strip can't bend 90 degrees and stay in place, you could cut it but that could cause it to be a leak since its no longer sealed together and would be a point that moves alot from door opening/closing. I was going to buy the repro weather stripping but from what I've found alot of people are unhappy of how unforgiving and thick it is causing door closing issues. Found this thread and found the Kia Spectra in the pick n pull and after looking at how it fits in the Kia and how my stock stripping sat in my car at the moment it made more sense to go with something from a newer car that fit 99% and was easier to use ( as well as the cheapest option ). It had the 90 degree for the upper corner by the 1/4 glass and started to turn in the same area's that the stock Z doors turn allowing it to fit nicely as well as it is more pliable like the others mentioned and thinner yet thick enough to fit and seal without causing major door closing issue's. Now the Kia Spectra's stripping is ~ 1 foot short like I mentioned in my earlier post so using a straight peice from the rear door stripping is needed and can be glued in place to make it a single seal or just cut to fit and put in place which is what I did. I don't see any problems with leaving it as is due to the fact it's in the middle of the bottom of the door where in my mind I don't see too much water getting in as it's the bottom of the door where water would have to go under the door and straight up and not the top where water comes down right into the car. Could be wrong though so we will see when it starts to really pour here... I would go for the Kia Sportage which is what the original poster used as it's longer and only needs 1 cut made to make it fit whereas the Spectra needs a peice added for it to work meaning it'll have 2 cut places. I just couldn't find a Sportage in the junkyard that I go to.

Because driving a manual transmission car and knowing how it works is 2 totally different things.... I know plenty of people who can drive a manual, ask them how it works and they say you push the far left pedal to the floor and put the stick in the middle into 1st gear and slowly let the far left pedal up while giving it some gas and off you go So, it won't go into any gear.... Is there clutch fluid in the clutch master? Have you tried bleeding both the clutch master and slave cylinders? Does the slave cylinder even move the clutch fork when pressing the clutch pedal? Will it go into all gears with the engine off and just sitting still? Basics is what he was trying to tell you... Searching this site and even just googling the symptoms will give you the answers that I just posted and more....

I had the same problem when I found some weatherstripping from a Kia Spectra the other day, was only about 1 foot short. I went with the Kia Spectra due to the fact that the pick n pull I go to was merged with the domestic pick n pull, and of course they did not have any Kia Sportage's... The upper corner by the quarter glass fits perfect and it all slides on like it belongs there. I only had to move the strikers out just a tiny bit to re-align the door latch to the striker, the door closes alot more firm and solid now than it ever did before. Less 'metallic noise' when closing the doors like it had with the old weatherstriping. I'll see if I can upload some pictures of it's fitment later on tonight...

It is possible, but finding the Nardi hub adapter here in the US is a major pain in the a**. The only one I could find was located in japan and cost $100 without shipping nor taxes. I ended up taking an old beat up stock wheel, cutting off the spokes and machining it on my lathe, then getting a piece of square aluminum and cutting a round circle out of it on my drill press with a hole saw big enough for the new wheel to mount to and then welding it to the stock hub. Then drilling and tapping the bolt hole pattern from the wheel and smoothing the weld out on my lathe for my Nardi Classic wheel to work on my '73 Z. I was tempted to try the *Old Datsun* adapter hubs available from thailand that are for sale on ebay for around $45 shipped that may have the Nardi bolt pattern on it as it has multiple patterns. You could also get the MOMO adapter hub for around $70 and get the MOMO to Nardi adapter and that'll work but it seems like it will be too close to the driver. At least for me it would be too close... Other than those 4 option's I've never had any luck getting the Nardi bolt hole style adapter hub without having to pay a rediculous amount of money to get one. Hope something helps, good luck.

Sorry, no extra fuel pumps. The 240Z's had mechanical fuel pumps, except for the '73 which came with a factory electric fuel pump to help overcome the vapor locking... Kinda hard to work for my dad- minimum 5 years experiance in a deisel shop, have your own tools ( not just basic tools), be able to do brake jobs, LOF's, and minor engine repair, a/c 609 certified, etc... I do have a ballast resistor though. I picked up an MSD coil that came with a ballast resistor, not sure if it will work in your 280z but I don't see why not as they are basically all the same. Worse thing I can see happening is it allows more current to get to your spark plugs which I don't think would be a bad thing You can have it if you want it, just let me know.

Followed me into the Z territory eh? You bought the T2 hood from me a while back for your FC. The car you have there is a 280z, the ZX wasn't around until 1979? if i'm not mistaken. The horsepower on the door plate is exagerated, back then they measured horsepower in a different way that yeilded more power than the way they do it today. Basically on an engine dyno, in an air conditioned room, with no accessories and anything else they could do to help pump up the power to sell the car. The 149 flywheel horsepower is the more correct amount of power that the car came with. Anyways, glad to see there's another Z in town. Was getting kind of lonely as the Z's that I do see around do notice my Z but won't wave back... Let me know if you need a hand with anything.

Yes, that's the way mine are set right now and it runs pretty good.

+1 Looks like it went really well so far. Pictures of it completed would be appreciated, I need to get my interior done and this might be the route that I go with it. Thanks in advance

Hey there, I had the same issue's with my Z when I first got it back in June. Ztherapy has a video on how to setup and tune the SU carbs which is extremely helpful. http://Ztherapy.com According to him, the floats should be set basically even with the ridge that you see when holding the float upside down. By ridge I am referring to the lip that you bolt onto the lower half of the float bowl. Have you tried adjusting the mixture screws on the bottom of the carbs? Like someone said a few posts up start out by screwing them all the way into the carb (leanest) and then turn them out 2 full turns and start from there. Also be sure that you have oil in the carbs as well as no oil will cause issue's as well as to thick or too thin of an oil. From what i've seen on here most use 10w-30 or 20w-50 oil in the carbs for normal engines. Not sure what you have and have not done and what you do and don't know, just trying to cover as much as possible to help out.

I agree with checking the tires for correct balance as well as the wheel bearings and ball joints. See if they can also check your toe as it can cause shudder issues as well, but if you haven't noticed and unusual tire wear on the front tires then the toe may not be your problem. The urethane steering rack bushings were seated properly when you tightened the bolts down correct? Maybe check to see if the brackets came loose as well and are allowing it to move around. I just recently had the same issue on my '73 and found that replacing my TC rods, steering rack bushings, and steering coupler with polyurethane bushings fixed 80% of the shuddering issue. I also had new tires installed before the bushings and had them properly balanced which helped a little but not much. I then installed an MSA 1 inch front sway bar and now have little to no shudder at all, basically a light vibration from time to time but barely noticable. If the tires, wheel bearings and ball joints all seem fine I would check out all of the front end bushings for cracking, chunks missing etc.. If they are original I would replace as much as possible with whichever material bushing you prefer and go from there.