Apex944

Definately running rich, you can tell by how low the NOx reading is. The extra fuel is cooling off the cylinder creating less NOx which is good for less NOx but bad because your wasting alot of fuel. Leaning out the carb/carb's should clean it up.

Pat, your the man Your picture just helped me decide which way i'm going to go as far as motor mounts go, which is going to be with the stock Skyline mounts. Thank you for the quick reply and clear picture. If I can't get our race boat's oil pan fabricator to make me a rear sump pan for my RB20DET then you will definately be getting my business here very soon

Not trying to threadjack too much, but how far forward does the gear shifter sit in the stock shift hole? I found one picture of how far forward it sat when using the Skyline mounts in a 280ZX RB swap but not any of how it sit's in an S30 when using the Skyline mounts. If you have picture's of how it sits I would greatly appreciate it, as well as the others in this thread probably will too.

I've seen that same orange Z a few times now, he used to park his car at the "crazy prices" or something like that warehouse over on iron rock way I believe is the name of the street off of East Stockton Blvd next to highway 99. That warehouse closed recently though and I haven't seen that car since. You should chase him down the next time you see him . Have you seen the factory colored dark green all stock 240Z or the all stock white one running around town too? I've only seen them 1 time and waved at the green one when we were both stuck at a red light going the opposite direction...only reaction I got was a long stare that lasted until the light turned...

Should answer the how to view the file's questions . Thanks for going out and getting that information, I may put it to use here soon myself when I order my new set of gauges...

Holy crap those are some great numbers, how do you like the 60-1 T04 turbo so far? I would imagine it would feel peaky as it's a large turbo for the L6 engine but then again I don't know much in the L6 world as I do in the Rotary world . I'm sure that ball bearing upgrade you chose to purchase for a little extra was well worth it according to your max power rpm. A T04 is a common bolt on for the Rotary 13B engine's as the T3/T4 turbocharger's that are commonly used here in the Nissan/Datsun world are too tiny for a 13B to use.

Looking good, missing the drain plug would definately suck haha. I will soon be possibly making my own pan for my RB20DET swap in the next few months. How long did it roughly take you to get as far as you are with that pan? Still on the fence if I really want to take the time to make a pan or just send my dimensions to our drag boat oil pan fabricator and have him make me a few

Have you checked the classifieds section that is further down the main page and/or your local craigslist for cars that are being parted out? Zcarsource sell's the glass for $167 - http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/55417/catid/7725/Door_Glass_70_76_Coupe_Left_used

I have no idea how to setup the E12-80 distributor but if you use the factory service manual for your 280z the electrical diagrams should clearly show where the wires go and what they do... If your asking what the wires from that specific ZX module do and where they go then lookup a 280zx factory service manuals electrical diagram...

The answers to your last post can be easily found by searching. If the float is set correctly and the needle ( I beleive it's the correct peice that the float rests on to allow/block fuel ) isn't clogged with debris the bowl shouldn't overflow out of the overflow tube. Clamping the fuel feed hose with pliers and having the engine smooth out clearly shows the rear 3 cylinders are being flooded by the carb. Do a quick search on how to setup the SU carb's and there should be some good info on getting them setup correctly. Also if you haven't already done so check out ztherapy.com, they have a video on how to rebuild and setup the SU carbs. I don't know if the '73 flat top carbs are the exact same but they should be similar to the early round top's but I don't know for sure. The float bowl can be taken off by itself without removing the entire carburetor but again that's assuming it's similar to the early round tops.

The picture's of the plugs aren't working for me.... It sounds like a carb issue to me as well, I had similar problems with my '73 which had the floats all screwed up and some linkage installed wrong. Have you checked the ignition timing? It should be 10 degree's which can be seen on the timing tab that might need to be wiped clean as it get's dirty pretty quick making it hard to read. Also, have you checked out ztherapy.com? Best place ever if you are using the factory SU carbs. If you do a quick search on how to setup the SU carbs on here you should find some good information to get the carbs setup well enough to drive it around if that is what's wrong with the car. All that you will really need to buy is an airflow synchronizer to be able to match the front and rear carb's airflow.

They do have great stuff from time to time as far as the larger equipment goes, but alot of their air or electric powered tools are just crap. I am tempted to try out some of their paint guns though...

Unfortunately I must agree with him about the strutbar, that thin walled conduit tubing probably isn't doing sqaut for you other than making it look "cool". Good idea and good try though. The paint didn't turn out too bad though on the car.

This looks like an awesome alternative to the other coilover options that are currently available, but I need to see pictures of them installed and if you noticed any other problems with them yet. I was going to order my new struts/springs soon and this thread just put a hold on that seeing as these S13 coilovers look like a much better route. Please post pictures soon .

+1 to both posts above, ticking injectors don't go quiet after the engine is warm. As well as a broken exhaust stud is a clear sign of where an exhaust leak is occuring or will occur soon, as there's nothing clamping that part of the exhaust gasket down to keep it from blowing out and causing a leak.

I am definately going with a set of these gauges once the rest of the car is sqaured away. Theyre not too expensive for the quality and they all actually match unlike trying to get a set of matched autometer gauges that also have a speedo and tach in the right sizes to match... I was looking at the black face white/green lettering but it seems really dark. Hoping to keep it close to the factory green if possible. Anybody see a set in green in person? If I can't find any good examples in their green color I'll go with the black face white/white lettering.

I realize that you said you don't like the generic racing wheel look, but have you looked into the Nardi wheels? I have the Nardi Classic wheel in my car and love it, I just with it wasn't so old so as the leather grip would be in better shape. I'm tempted to sandblast the classic black off and leave it a rough aluminum look... I couldn't find much else either as far as steering wheels go that went with the interior of the Z, the MSA wheels look OK but seem kind of cheap as well as the other "bolt in" wheels that you can buy. I had to fabricate the adapter for my classic wheel on my lathe out of a block of aluminum to the stock Z hub as I couldn't find a Nardi adapter for under $100 that didn't put the wheel in my face. Good luck with your search.

That turned out really good, too bad my center vent actually works on my car otherwise I would give it a shot. Thumbs up for a good idea for those who have little need for a center vent.

That's a really nice looking setup, very clean job on the manifolds and routing. I can't believe it's that tight of a squeeze though, what are the plans as far as heat shielding goes? Perhaps relocating that lower harness below the turbo that I see? When is it planned to be "finished" by?

That's a pretty good price for the harbor freight press. I think we paid something like $140 for the one we have at the shop a few years ago. It works pretty good for the cost, might be worth picking up another for the new shop... Thanks for the info grumpyvette.

There's a place here in Sacramento called Venus that can get all kinds of engines. I've installed a few engines from them into customers cars and they seem to be a really great place and fairly priced compared to some other importers that i've seen. Alot of people use them, and as far as I know i'd say 90% of the local's use them for engines and parts needs. Website: http://www.venus-auto.com/ Once I decide on which engine I want to go with, RB25 or RB26 i'll be ordering it from them. Sadly that won't be for a while though so I won't be able to give much more personnal experiance with them than what i've already posted.

Hey, another local Z owner . As the person above wrote, you might be able to apply more coats of paint to conceal it to save some time. What I would do is wet sand the entire peice that your working on and re-spray it again and hopefully it turns out better. The problem is the paint, rustoleum and krylon are really crappy and like the person above posted spray in a circular pattern that make it hard to use. They are also very thin, as in watered down which forces you to paint it really close at times and needing to use alot of paint to cover a large surface. What color are you trying to paint it? Not to go too far off topic but where in Elk Grove are you located? I have a shop (Diesel repair) on waterman rd next to radial tire, and will soon be opening a performance shop with my father in the next few weeks nearby on Dino off of waterman rd.

I agree, that link was a huge help to me as well as I have the same odd ball shift lever as Konish and the creator of that link. Went a grabbed the 4 speed shift lever from the free L24 and 4 speed trans deal I got, cleaned it up and installed the new original plastic bushings and it dropped right in. Definatley a huge difference from the crappy odd shifter, as well as gears 1, 3 and 5 seem to be a little shorter as well. It also moved closer to me due to the angle of the lever which I actually liked as the 5 speed swap that the previous owner swapped in had moved the shifter way forward and made shifting feel strange as I had to lean forward a little to go into the 1, 3, and 5 gears. Now I did try the brass bushing install but didn't have much luck, they seem to be 1mm oversize to the stock 4 speed lever hole. I tried but not very hard to press them in with my mini vise at my house but didn't have any luck. I already had 2 new bushings that I ordered months ago to put in so I just popped them in and put it back together. Also the holes in the brass bushings seemed to be too large for the stock retaining pin. It allowed more free play than the new factory bushings did, the retaining pin I used was brand new. Not trying to discourage anybody from giving it a try, just posting my experience with it the other night. Switching to the 4 speed lever was definately a huge improvement.

That is quite different from all of the blowthrough setups i've been looking into... I would also like to know more about it, hopefully someone on here has contacts in japan . That site also has a ton of good pictures as well, some really nice Z's as well as other oldschool and newer cars. I've only made it about 1/3 of the way through all of the pictures...

The ABS plastic tubing from home depot, lowes, etc.. works really well for holding gauges in a car. Alot of the Rx-7 guys use it and make triple gauge pods with them with some bondo that sit ontop of the dash in place of the idiot light cluster. You can also cut the ABS tubing with a slight angle to it to face the gauge towards whichever direction you need it to face. I've seen some make the actual holding peice and then cut a cheese wedge off the leftover tube and glue it onto the holder to angle the gauge. It's sort of hard to describe and would take me a few hours to dig through my Gig's of pictures to find a good example, hope you can at least see what I mean by cheese wedge for the angle. ( FC3S 1986-1991/1992 Rx-7's had the idiot gauge cluster on top of the dash in the center like the Z's factory triple gauge on the dash FYI ). It doesn't look all that bad, it's hard to cleanly mount extra gauges in the Z. Nissan already used the top of the dash for a triple gauge setup...so your left with the A pillar or somewhere in the HVAC or stereo area. There are far worse setups over in the ghetto built Rx-7 world...but that's off the subject and can go on for days of discussion haha. Why not mount that giant external tachometer in place of the original tach and mount the shift light where the external tach is mounted to clean it up a little?