Two80z4me

Update to whom this may concern: I got a new AFM courtesy of flatty up there, helped a little, had the same problem come up again and again. Got new spark plugs, ran great below 3k, smooth good power, as soon as you hit 3k or kept going on up, the power was absolutely gone, so much that you can barely get it past 4k when driving it. A week later, same problem comes back sounds like this http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x131/nwkled06/?action=view&current=MVI_1113.flv I changed the timing and did all the idle adjusting, then it ran great again, with the same power drop, which could be due to the timing being off still, but then I go to drive it the next day and its back to sounding like it does in the video? Help!!! This is my DD and I need to running reliably again. my 2cents would be the fuel pump, but I need help with this.

I know, I recall seeing the sticky devoted to sizing and its area, ex: dual 3" is less than 4" etc..

haha, well my unemployment doesnt help my situation... however, if you know how to work the Rich Highschool Kids, you can make some money. I buy cars off craigslist and fix them and then sell them with sound systems, and build fiberglass sub enclosures and bla bla bla. thats the only way I could have my car still functional. back to the topic at hand, if I was to take an edumacated guess at the "ultimate" exhaust, I would have to say a dual 2.5" and do the criss cross technique, and alot of resonators like ferrari...

y'all are gonna slap me with the wrath of experience on this one ,but being a broke highschool kid I'm doing this to save myself money, heres what Im doing next week... A 6-1 2.5" collector to a 3" all the way back, no muffler, that way when I get all of my turbo parts in the next month or so I dont have to get a whole new exhaust...

check the simplest things first, go get a new set of plugs, could be fouled, I had the same problem, and checked everything.

well in montana, no sane person would do 75, on my way to seattle I was doing 100 the whole way, no shimmies, just plain and easy crusing. the most ive done stock was 120, I could've kept going but the road didnt provide for it. I dont have an airdam, I didnt get the "lifted" feeling you mention of... I also dont have a front bumper, maybe thats part of it? The only real mod I had at the time was the flat top p79 head. nothing else... stock cadillac suspension, springs, tight bushings though.

I can relate to the cold, no heater, -25 doing 75 on the highway with the window down acting as my defroster haha

i never knew your car was a G-nose :) were you under intense accel or does it just have that rake in the suspension?

Do the Interior lights work? and do the side marker lights work? if they dont turn on with the brake lights, its the little tab at the end of the shaft for you headlight tab. and then its a little tab in there that might be broke, or the metal isnt touching.

chrome is like alcohol, in moderation its good fun, in excess it usually turns out horrid, but on rare occasions, its even better... just keep that in mind lol looks like you guys are getting right along.

ahhh, with 16x8's I had to roll my fenders a little bit.

you may get mad at this but I have a Set of Tokico HP Blue springs that have the top coil cut off, which takes away the "Progressive" top coil, so it rides the same stiffness all the time, it drops the car 2" and rides nice even on Montana roads, about 1k miles on them.

thats all I needed to know.

In an N/A Application, what difference do they really make? Ive heard negative things about them being applied to a Turbo motor, but I've also heard good things about them in a N/A motor. Please, Experienced people, chime in.

nice you did the same thing in the front as I did lol, and what did you use to take off the valence over the rear bumper? just a hammer

haha if the joy riders tried to steal my car and drive it and fill it with gas, they would quickly find out that filling it is more complicated than they think! and would have got gasoline all over them and got the owners of the place mad, who would ask for all of the license and reg and then they would find out its stolen! (happened to me when I first got my car, I spilled gas on myself and told the owners to clean up the ground, then they asked me for all the proof because I was 16 with a very clean z car) Anywayzs, I would seriously consider getting into it with the damn forklift guys, thats such bullshat

if the other guy falls through on the fan clutch Ill PM you.

Pm'D

Title says it all, Need A Operation Starter/Solenoid, Fan clutch for the main cooling fan (Mine was seized and is causing my car to run funny in this weather), And finally the fan "rabbit cage" that goes on the end of the blower motor. These parts need to fit a 1978 280z EFI 280z. Pm me with more info, Thanks. Sean

do you have a link to the install thread for that, I cant find it.

its the mechanical clutch for the fan, which usually changes depending on what the car tells it, but my clutch is broke, and its stuck on the highest setting, so whenever you touch the gas it gets really loud. and when its 0 degrees outside, it doesn't help the car to heat up very much

ya, if my fan clutch wasn't stuck on High, it would be very loud from the front.

id finger print the car, easiest way, and I dont think they were professional enough to wear gloves, atleast they saved your paint job aswell.

yup, we need the plugs for things like this : Id take bugs and heat over snow anyday, not so hot on the hurricanes however.

Beautiful car JHM!!!! On the other hand, my car is filthy from being garaged. But I'll play along here, I have my set-up that was quite nice looking until rich witch mcgee decided to roll into my car with her big diesel, bent my cover piece, and scratched the paint, and forced me to ziptie it on. You guys also might enjoy my blacked out turn signals (yes they are still visible) And I'll throw in a photo of my intake hiding behind the grill. You be the judge, just ignore the dirt, and the block heater, it gets below 0 here and we need it. -sean