Two80z4me

how can you afford to do this all in HS even though my mother is my main supporter for my auto-x and part addiction, and I make money on the side lol. I still can barely keep that damned l28 running.

no I get it, I meant avatar lol

So, I put in the E12-80 and I wired it in using the existing wiring harness to the new E12. I traded it out because my 280z dizzy had alot of shaft play in all directions, and I had an E12 that was clean and had no shaft play. I installed it, put the 280z rotor/cap onto it and used the existing green/red wire from the 280z harness into it as well. My question is, what does the green wire do?(hopefully goes to the tach?) and the red im guessing is power? I know there is a different way to do it, using this wire set up from the coil . http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/e1280x.jpg which leads to my next Question, does anyone have any photos of this set up? I tried sending a wire from my coil on the positive side to the positive on the dizzy, and same with the ground. All I got was just it trying to start, but there was nothing, it would turn and everything, but wouldn't start. The car was running previous to pulling the distributor and installing this one. I need to know which wire is the tach sensor, and which is the 12v+ like in the photo so I can get this thing running again

So, I put in the E12-80 and I wired it in using the existing wiring harness to the new E12. I traded it out because my 280z dizzy had alot of shaft play in all directions, and I had an E12 that was clean and had no shaft play. I installed it, put the 280z rotor/cap onto it and used the existing green/red wire from the 280z harness into it as well. My question is, what does the green wire do?(hopefully goes to the tach?) and the red im guessing is power? I know there is a different way to do it, using this wire set up from the coil . http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/e1280x.jpg which leads to my next Question, does anyone have any photos of this set up? I tried sending a wire from my coil on the positive side to the positive on the dizzy, and same with the ground. All I got was just it trying to start, but there was nothing, it would turn and everything, but wouldn't start. The car was running previous to pulling the distributor and installing this one. I need to know which wire is the tach sensor, and which is the 12v+ like in the photo so I can get this thing running again

good, now update your sig.

Ok, update. I did the fusible link swap and put seafoam in, it ran great for a day and a half. but then I drove it to school the next morning, and it was stumbling but halfway to school it stuttered and went back to normal. I went to lunch and AGAIN!!! it started badly idled funny and drove odd, but on the way back from lunch, it ran just fine?! Now the hole way home it ran inbetween, it wasn't super bad and choppy ,but it was still stuttering on acceleration and idle, it never stutters on decelleration? I tried using the EFI bible and testing connectors, everything is reading full.

do you even have to take off any fuel lines to lower the tank and get the last bolt?

Finished up my fuse box swap, made a considerable difference. Much smoother, so then I went and filled my tank full of premium like always, and introduced Seafoam to the mix (only the gas) , and just as everyone described it ran smooth and new feeling, had much more "pep" also. now I just need to dial in my timing to get the full effect.

thats a very clever idea. I've always wondered why people haven't done that more often. In my opinion, a 240z front bumper and a shaved rear end with a spoiler looks very clean, if done right. my front end is so haggard right now, can't wait to get a front air dam and re-enforce it so it doesnt fold under the car on my airforce runs.

unless you do some spacing, fender rolling, and a coilover set up that would allow for more room inside the wheel well. No they wouldn't fit a stock 240z.

doesn't surprise me on that car.

Im only put it through the gas when I fill up next to clean the fuel lines and hopefully injectors out. Its always had a slight hicup in one of the injectors, I did the fusible link swap and that seems to of cured the majority of my problems. but im still using the seafoam.

If you want to complete the "look" I have a perfectly good flat black welded fully steel frame mount grill guard for a 2008 tundra haha just messing around, It looks unique, in a good way.

what is your number, ill call you and explain it.

here what is your number, I had the same problem and I cant explain it on here without sounding like dumbledorf. If your still Up I can help you, I had the identical problem.

I HAVE to get 215/60/14's for my car in the near future, these tires are worn out and I have suspension to install thats going to take my car down another 2" or so.

yeah, I can only find 205 60 14's. even though the PO of my car has it set up for 215 70 14, its the most awkward size tire to find for anything, holy crap.

Leave the rear interior, the noise without it is hideous. Im not sure what you mean by surge, do you have a video? is it like this : http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x131/nwkled06/?action=view&current=MVI_1113.flv&newest=1 Replace your fusible links with the maxi fuse box setup, my car ran with a surge, basically a small misfire and its getting annoying Ive done everything. but im seafoaming it and replacing the fuses later this week. lol I tried to do the rust fix thing, I ended up just leaving bondo half done on my car because it snowed and I didnt have it all the way dry, so one of these days ill grind it all off and tape the car off, bondo over it again and primer it right.

You guys have no IDEA how excited I am that I opened this thread!!!! My car has been running like it has a minor misfire and stuttering and wont let me rev past 4k like it doesnt have the power. I replaced the plugs, it ran good for a day and promptly went bad again. A month later, I changed the timing and the idle speed and what not, it Ran great again! Low and behold it ran like it is missing again the next day lol. I replaced the fuel filter, it was pretty filled with dirty gas. Im doing the Fusible link swap to a maxi fuse box, and doing the seafoam, ill do both seperatly to post accurate results, but this stuff seriously sounds like magic in a can! Wish me luck.

As Long as there is VW guys, there will be tires for 13" rims

definately good to see, I think the market is realizing that they have followings from the past, not just 240sx's and civics and occasionally the bimmer guy that ventures out past the BBS wheel selection

I put a new filter in and it flows better, but still runs bad. now its down to the Dizzy and the Fuel Pump, I need to get a ZXT dizzy anyway for megasquirt so I'll pick one up and a walbro 255 fuel pump.

people who live in condo's.

how fat are those monsters in the rear??? and how in the world do they clear the body lol, im guessing alot of wheel well work?

well it stopped doing the tach problem, so thats out of the problem. its just the fuel pump, i'll do it tommorow, get on AIM around 5 your time tommorow or I'll call you. the EFI fuel bile, well lets just say there is a link directly on my desktop lol