Namor

I've got one and assuming I can find a box to put it in, should be able to ship it fairly cheap. I'll get you pictures of it tonight if you want.

I can't see your pictures, but what ended up working for me was soaking the strut housing in pb blaster for 3-4 days. I don't mean spraying it on or pouring some in the hole a couple times a day, I mean buy a gallon and fill a paint tray with it and completely submerge the area containing the spindle pin. This was after trying at great length on my own. I had been turned down by 1 shop and had another unsuccessfully try to heat it and press it (oxy/acetylene torch and at least a 20 ton press.) It still took a little pounding to get it out, but I could see movement after each hit. If you could fill a bucket with pb blaster to submerge it, you could feasibly do it while still on the car I think.

Finally got around to installing this spacer and a new clutch/flywheel. It works beautifully and for anyone who has wondered, it required no grinding of the bellhousing for a T5.

I have the radio from my 280z which I tested out of curiosity and surprisingly it works very well. I don't plan on using it, so I figured I'd see what it is worth to someone who wants a period correct radio. Only downside is that it is missing the knobs.

They are grounded through the beam selector stalk. Each time you click it, it swaps between grounding the high and low beams. If you just direct grounded the low beams, they would come on when you turn your headlights on and stay on when you turn on your highbeams. As for keeping amperage down in the steering column, it didn't accomplish that at all because all of the power goes through the steering column. I have a warped column cover because of it.

I'd have to check the 71 wiring to see if it is the same as mine, but here is how the headlights in a 77 work. Each headlight has 3 wires. +12v, a highbeam ground, and a low beam ground. Turning the switch to turn the headlights on, connects power to the fusebox which then sends (+) power via separate fuses to each headlight. The highbeam stalk changes which beam is grounded. Both high and low are not grounded at the same time. I imagine you could energize both at the same time, but I'm not sure that the bulbs were designed for that and they might burn out quicker due to heat.

Is this the clutch you are referring to? https://www.ebay.com/itm/XTD-STAGE-3-DUAL-FRICTION-RACING-CLUTCH-KIT-FITS-03-06-350Z-03-07-G35-jdm/192450127795?fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item2cceebe7b3:g:M9gAAOSw3ydV6grc&vxp=mtr I saw that they also have a Stage 3 that is a 6 puck, but this is the one I was leaning towards.

Both Z32 and CD009 use the same input shaft spline and can use stock L28 clutches.

It depends on how much you have to spend. The T5 is only rated to 265 lb-ft, although I believe there have been a lot of people have it hold more. The common options that I know of are T5 FS5W71C (aka KA transmission swap, also found in Non-Turbo Z31) ( http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html ) Z32 Transmission + http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/300zx-l28-transmission-adapter CD009 (Z33 Transmission) + http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/l-series-6spd-transmission-adapter-03-06-vq35de T56 ( As for the stock speedometer, I'm not sure which of these had speedo cables originally, but there are adapters now that will drive your speedometer from an electrical signal if you decide to go with a transmission that can't directly drive your speedometer. )

I have a 280z and I know there is a height issue in the difference between the radiators, but I'm not sure if there is any other difference. As for A/C, it normally runs off the middle pulley on a L28et. I had an unknown 16" fan in there before that was 3.5" thick and ran into clearance issues with the tensioner pulley when recently installing A/C. Now I have a SPAL fan that is ~2.5" thick and have ~7/8" of clearance. I have a Champion 3-row radiator that measures 2.75" at the top, but the core is inset from the edge of the end tank by about 3/8" and my fan is just flat up against the core (no shroud.) *edit* Just looked, and if you have a Champion 4-row for your 240z, you should have ~.3" less clearance than I do.

You don't have AC though, right? How thick are the altima fans at the motor? I had a fan that was 3.5" thick at the motor and had to go to a thinner one because it interfered with my AC pulley.

Do you know if there are plans to offer a gauge in larger sizes?

That looks really good. It looks like 280z dashes should be available in the summer as well.

No problem, as long as you learned something through the process.

Are the grounds on the toggle switches just to light them up? The second toggle isn't really needed. Just run those wires directly to terminal 87 on the relay. (and as you figured out, not 87A) It wouldn't hurt anything to have the second toggle though but the only benefit I could see is being able to shut the engine off while keeping the relay powered (if you have other loads also powered off this relay) The coil does need to come off before the pushbutton (so terminal 87 of relay) but the stock wiring had two wires that went to the coil/resistor. One was energized while running AND starting (so the equivalent of before the button) and the other was energized only while starting (so the equivalent of after the button.) The one I labeled "to coil" above, was the latter. The other I labeled "Transistor Ign Unit and Coil"