v80z

I was getting worried I was the only one because there were not more posts on this. Thanks for the input.

I wanted to take a poll. How many of you found yourself beating the firewall with a 5 lb maul to make room for the distributor cap. Oh yeah I already mounted the transmission.

After fooling with the fuel last time and after the garage had aired out some I realized the benefits of a good ground to the engine. I am wiring now. I had continuity from the neg bat terminal to the engine and thought that the mounts were good enough grounds. Anyway I have been bumping the motor with the starter to get #1 at TDC for Dizzy install. It has been rolling with alot of effort. I am using a battery charger in conjunction with the battery for starting. Thought the battery maybe weak. After a thorough charge the motor still turns slowly with the starter motor. I was rolling it for the dizzy install. I hit the starter and a spark jump from the driver's side engine compartment. I quickly shut things down. I inspected that side and did not see any wires in the vicinity. As I was probing I found the dipstick welded to the brake line!!!! HMMMM Ya think this engine needs a better ground to the chassis? Well got an old battery cable and grounded from the head to the body. Engine turns much faster now under the starter's power. This whole hybrid path is a good learning experience.

On disassembly I found some varnishing but not alot. What I did find was one of the metering rods had a retaining clip that was unclipped. Hopefully with the carb cleaner I blew through all the jets and the assembly it will make a differrence. Still waiting on a gasket kit from summit for the holley red fuel Pump. then will test again.

Sorry I pulled them. No big deal. Slide hammer assist.

It is just a Holley Red pump 5 psi running through AN6 steel braid. Carb pump no regulator necessary. I took the carb apart today and cleaned jets and checked the float operation. I am waiting on a gasket for my holley pump from summit. Once that comes in I will test again and post results. Thanks

Thanks for opening this thread. I put Mike Kelly's name down here for 2 reasons. First of all Mike Basically gave this carb to me so no complaints here. 2nd I put his name on to draw attention. Thanks Mike!!! Edelbrock 1411 performer. Vac 2ndary electric choke 750 cfm for dual plane Anyway. I finally got the fuel system hooked up and cut the power on. shut it back off to tighten some fittings. Then cut it back on. It seemed that the floats never cut off the fuel to the bowls and it was pouring out the primaries. This carb, I assume has been sitting for a while and needs a cleaninf. If it were a weber side draft It woul take me all if 20 minutes to resolve the issue. But being as this is the first 4 barrel I have ever laid into I though I would broach the subject with the group. 1. Where can I find a good manual for this carb 2. taking this apart looks caomplicaterd. On the weber I could lift the top plate, change and clean the jets, pull and clean the accelerator pump. pull aND CLEAN THE FLOATS. To what level of disassembly do I need to go to do this. Anyway I was hoping that some one with some experience would rea this and say: " Well all you have to do is >>>>>>>>>>>>>" Any way thanks

I am facing the same issue. My last car had a painless 8 circuit. Seemed to work well. This car had a custom switch set with fuses that was grafted into the stock harness. Well I have since removed all the stock harness. I left the plugs on all the lights. Then I hung the harness from the highest tree and stripped the lighting circuits out of it. I am shopping for a painless set now. I will run light a couple aux circuits and whatever is needed for the engine. I thought about using the custom panel but it is not very clean. The painless is all fused and solid. Wiring for me will be the next challenge.

Does anyone ever use this CHAT. I log on and check if anyone is up for chatting about rides but noone is ever on.

Has this car always done this. Is it a new car to you? Has the rear end been welded?

IF I only hAD THAT MUCHCONFIDENCE. i CANT EVEN DO THAT ON A CLOSED COURSE WITH PLENTY OF RUN OFF. bUT A HILL CLIMB! hOODY hooooo!!!!

thanks jt1 600 cfm for a 350 at 6000 rpm may be cutting it close even at 100% VE. He initially told me it was a 750 which peaked my interest. OH BTW I consider carbs PFM.

A fellow at work asked me if I wanted a holley carb that had been sitting for 2 years in his garage. He said take a do some research and pay me what you think it is worth. 4776-4 1668 Looks to be a holley 600 cfm double pumper. Needs rebuilding. I currently have and edlebrock performer. Think it is a 600-650 cfm??? Any way What is the difference between the 2 carbs ? At what price point is it a good deal to pick this up? Will it add anything to my setup? Thanks

Goodyear Sports Car Bias Ply or Radial SLICKS 23.5x10x16 19-21 lbs cold air pressure

I am going through the same thing. I am going the Terry Oxandale way Maxima front rotors vented 82 Maxima caliper brackets. Just orderred from Synlubes 82 toyota cressida or 85 Maxima rear caliper or 280zx calipers I got the brackets on and am going to get cailpers soon. I will update as things progress

Eric I ran LD crank 30 over f54 block p90 head with plenty of porting forged venolia dome top with full float pins 13.5:1 C.R. weber 40 with 36 Chokes stock dizzy with electonic conversion 30-32 degrees total advance cam 613 lift ~ 300 duration most topend profile from schneider nismo big header and cannon intake car weighed in at 2250 without driver. I could run to 7800 rpm in 4th gear with a 4.11 rear end = 134 mph Would not make any power below 4000 rpm but from 4k to 8k you had to be quick. Things it needed Definately EFI aftermarket Crank trigger ignition if not EFI IT needed bigger carbs say 50 mikunis. IT definately needed to breathe bigger at the high end. Dry sump oiling Of course I ran 110 - 113 Sunoco All this said it made 270 280 hp at the crank. The best back in the day were race motors setup for one race that dynoed at 312 hp. I guess what I am trying to say is that your goals for an N. A. L28 motor does not constitute a "mild setup"

Behind the distributor housing? That is the edge of the intake manifold. Do you have a picture? Thanks

Where is the best place to install the line for my mechanical oil pressure gauge? 1970 sbc 350

Cygnusx When you say early what do you mean? 79 - 81 ? I made the adapters 1" thick. I have original 77 280x companion flanges. It would not work. The cv shaft would not fit between the diff and the companion flange. Terry those pics of your zxt shafts show they are relaxed" not compressed" and a length in the 21 -22 inche range. The shaft I got from cardone was 21" fully compressed. I think the got it wrong. Does anyone have any sources for good 280zxt cv shafts?

Hey Cygnusx What cv shafts did you use with your cv shaft conversion. I had your design made. I got an 81 280zxt passenger shaft from cardone and fully compressed it was 21 inches long and would not fit between the r200 and the inside of the wheel bearing hub. I think it was made wrong. I looked a t blueovalz's pics and his shafts fully relaxed were 20 21 inches long. Any info would be most appreciated. Thanks

I am so jealous. Your description of thought is most appreciated. I am very close to my first ride and am eagerly awaiting the day. I know the feeling of" Did I check this and that?" from my racing days. It is a very very momentous and heart stressing occasion strapping in after a build, trying to go over everything you touched in your mind before hitting the ignition. But just remember Tom Cruise in Risky Business. "Sometimes you gotta say WTF". And besides WE CREATED THESE MONSTERS AND WE CAN FIX THEM IF ANYTHING GOES WRONG !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YEE HAW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Very Kewl SpdSK8r

Does anyone have any info on a cold air intake for a 4 barrel carburetor? Thanks

I orderrered new 79-81 280zxt cv shafts for my upgrade. Only the passenger side came in. I spent the weekend, and a few hours with synlube, thanks doug, testing fitment with cygnusx1's cv adapters. I could not achieve fitment. The cv shaft had the longer diff stub and it went into the passenger side. After many attempts at fitment with the adapter I finally took the adapter off and put the rear suspension in place with the cv shaft inserted into the diff. I founf out that I could not compress the cv shaft enough to line it up with the stock inner wheel hub. The cv shaft when fully compressed is about 22 inches. THAT IS ITS SHORTEST LENGTH!!. I looked at Terry OXandale photos and his shafts laying relaxed are 21-23 inches. I am trying to confirm that the replacement cv shaft that I recieved is too long. These were orderred through autzone form the reman company cardone. $79.00 plus core I also have another cv shaft it is about 18- 19" fully compressed and works well. But it is in such bad shapeI can only use it for a core. Could someone point me in the right direction? Thanks

I have inevitably bought the wrong everything. SO if anybody want some of the wrong parts I have a good inventory. I had to heat those headers and drift them with a 5 lb maul just to get the clearance for the spark plugs. Go figure. Anyway my goal is to get it on the road. Then improve it.