v80z

Took the car out again this evening for a little round the block now that the lights are working. Man this is a rough riding S$%. Loud ? This thing aint no street car. I thought I might put a little music in it but the only people who will be able to hear it will be outside the car. CLutch line has air in it. Melted a plug wire. Got a chirping like a wheel bearing in the rear. EWither a bearing or a brake issue, not associated with rpm,. And I will probably pass out from all the fumes. Good News The valve cover hold down bolts were bottoming out so I ground those down and my after drive oil spot has gone from grapefruit size to nickel size. Bad news Previous oil drip soaked my paper exhaust gaskets and they blew out. Gotta go get some aluminum ones. Those ought to be fun putting them on with the motor in. I found that putting those cheesy block huggers on with the motor out was as challenging as a rubik's cube for me. All of the little issues and problems makes me appreciate the time effort money blood and sweat that those who have gone before me have put in.

I run carbotech panther plus? I think. Definatley carbotech

Polish them yourself. Instead of getting bonze bushings installed I just had the bore the pin holes to .006-.008 of the pin OD. Every time I took that thing down they always looked good. I used to drill my upper oiling holes myself and peen the lower one closed as well. Then Polish them. Then I would take them to the shop and have the piston pin holes bored. I would have them balance them as well. $10-$12 /rod for boring and I think it was 1 - 2 hours labor to balance them. All in all <$150.00 for the machine shop

Is CHAT gone?

Where is the CHAT button?

And all. what is the trick to tgetting the valve covers to seal. I am having a devil of a time. Maybe the cheapos 2 pieces I bought. Anyway I am tracking an oil leak from top to bottom. I do see oil leaking from the valve covers near the rear where it pools before dropping down the recess. I bought another gasket set. also I am using the "spreaders" under the lower valve cover bolts nut not on top. Just wanted to know if there are any tricks as this is my first sbc. After I get that fixed we will see where else we are hemorhagging from. I havent ruled out the rear seal. I had to plow through this conversion but I figure that once I get it to certain point, running and streetable, it would be easier to go back and pull the motor and tranny to fix the seal if necessary. Anyway once I stop marking my territory I will feel better. thanks

I always like reading your posts and seeing your progress. I have all the videos and show my friends regular. See what a Z can do!! It is also very reassuring to watch you guys put the stress on the rear end and half shafts. Helps me to understand the engineering limits so that I am comfortable with my setup.

Above where the oil filter screws on the are 2 threaded holes in the block. One has a boss associated with it as if something mounted there. The other is in a recess the is about half as big as your fist. The bottom of the recess is the top of where the oil filter installs. I am chasing an oil leak and wonderred if anyone knew what these hole s were for. Maybe I missed plugging something. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.weinlemotorsports.com/DartProducts/SBC/SBC_LittleM_Block_Top.jpg&imgrefurl=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rebuild-Small-Block-350-400-V8-Chevrolet-Chevy-Truck_W0QQitemZ8004930907QQcategoryZ34222QQcmdZViewItem&h=566&w=900&sz=87&tbnid=K2ygOfLR-iiArM:&tbnh=91&tbnw=145&hl=en&start=2&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsbc%2B350%2Bblock%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DDVXB,DVXB:2005-50,DVXB:en%26sa%3DN The 2 holes above the oil filter boss in the picture Thanks

HAven't been to the dyno. 1970 impala 350 10.25:1 CR 300 hp stock 1.94 intake 1.6 exhausts 508 solid cam not a big bump but lots of lope cammed for high end 3000-6500 Eddy air gap intake Eddy 750 performer carb I have a crane CD system that will go in as well. I would estimate 340 -360 hp Need to get the timing and the dizzy curved right. I dont have the vacuum advance hooked up right now. I am hoping for 400-425 crank after some dyno time. r200 3.90 welded solid coilovers 4 wheel discs NExt round of mods CLUTCH. I am leaning toward Tilton lesser brand. I think it is called SONIC. DOuble disc 7.25 My inital feel is that IT has the power of my old ITS L6 but this is a bone stock motor in comparison. There is much more rotating and reciprocating mass so the spin up is noticeably slower. The L motor is much more of a zing. But the low end torque of this thing is much appreciated. I am making the power at 3000-4000rpm that the L motor made at 7000 rpm. The challenge will be to reduce the drag/mass of the rotating assembly. That is the first thing ie Flexplate and racing clutch.

Diamond Racing Steel Wheels 16x10 Kuhmo 255/50 r16 Ecstas

Yeah man Come on. I got some Z questions for ya.

http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=5648&cat=509&page=1 Well it was just up and down the cul de sac but it felt good. Definately rough. It just gets better the farther I let it wind up. There are alot of things to still do but we are titled, registerred, insured, and legal. Just gotta get the lights working and get some decent valve cover that dont leak. Thanks All.

Had a similar problem. Someone here helped me out. I had the calipers on the wrong side. A quick switch right toleft fixed it. Remember bleed screwsgo above the brake lines.

I have been trying to figure out the cheapest way to ship a Kart from Galva IL 61434 to VA. Cheapest I got is $250.00 to my door. Anyone got any ideas

Watch out for that CF clutch. I ahd a similar setup in my race car for a while. It is a street clutch. I went into turn 1 one time and forgot to blip the throttle. With my locked rear end and the 10" slicks the spring steel that the pressure plate was mounted on collapsed and shredded the inside of the bell housing. I sent it back to CF for rework. They replaced the 2 pieces of spring steel with 3 pieces on each of the 3 mounting posts. Needles to say the next Time I forgot to blip on a downshift it happened again. This is of course at about 7K rpm. After that I bout a 10,000 rpm brand 5.5" double disc mounted on an aluminum flexplate. Much better. Stood up to every error I threw at it. It was a bear to get adjusted right however it lasted.

Mike et al This is a great thread especially that applies to the eastern tracks. I have raced at VIR and SUMMit with a z. I am now in the process of building a dedicated track car V8 SBC. If anyone has any set up tips could we make a sticky? in the motorsports section or other appropriate section. also as we go to track if we could post times and challenges there i would be great as well. does it warrant its own forum? V8 S30-31 road course?

shave the head raise compression run race gas port the head and stock manifolds bigger cam

yes holley red fuel pump 5 psi.

Thanks That sounds good. I will trun the timing back and check the threads. I guess I need to make sure that it does tighten up snug. Has this ever happened to you. Wires are new It was in the same wire config as when it was running last. So it must be the timing. Any other ideas?

New some help if anyone has ever done this to see if I am going in the right direction My side drafts never leaked into my L motor. Here is a new one for me. I started and ran the new sbc 350 several times about 3 week prior. I did not put stabil in the fuel. Today after rewiring and making sure everything was clear and tight I attempted to start the engine. A mechanical clink followed by a high pitched grinding sound followed by what appeared to be a 409 bottle spraying raw fuel up out of the carb. I suspect the fuel in the carb bowls filled one of the cylinders causing a hydraulic lock? I remove all the plugs and turned it over again. Engine upper and lower seems to move with starter just fine. Still a high pitch whine. I looked below and this is what I found http://jemofvausa.no-ip.org/v80z/crack1.jpg http://jemofvausa.no-ip.org/v80z/crack2.jpg The body of the starter is cracked and there is a small crack in the bell housing of the tranny. Not so worried about either. I will leave the bell housing and replace the $30.00 starter. But I would like to know the cause. This SCB stuff is all new to me so any help would be aprreciated

Made some progress. It is still ugly. But it is mine. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=9446

I know there is no exact answer except for the dyno. I have plugged alot my my numbers into desktop dyno and have gotten some estimates but I was wondering if anyone had any opinions on this combo. Started out as a 1970 impala 350 sbc 300 hp stock. Bored 30 over Heads 1.94 intakes 1.60 exhausts Got screw ins Moroso rollers Cam 508 508 solid dont know the exact duration, at home, but is is an upper end cam Edlebrock 750 cfm with PErformer air gap BLock Huggers Estimates?