camerashy

Hello, a long time since I've written anything here but here goes - Had the long block put back together a number of years ago by a reputable builder in Toronto, ON, it had been a while since he'd worked on anything with a Nissan name on it but he's done something somewhat unforgivable in my book - he never read the cam card. This is THE go-to one man show Drag engine builder in Toronto. Long story short, despite my insistence that new lash pads were needed for the 280 8.3mm lift Tomei Procam, he assured me the existing lash pads were in good enough shape. He used the STOCK L28 lash tolerances as oppose to the ones from the cam card. He never read the guide from Braappp that I'd supplied. I stupidly assumed that he would have machined the old lash pads to fit. Nope, he just threw them back in. A huge disappointment on what was otherwise a lovely engine build done really nicely. This is the result from him running it in on a run in machine. Can the cam be salvaged or is it toast? I can't really 'feel' any damage, but on a few of the lobes it certainly looks bad. Compounding this, and very related, I had in the head Bryan (ZCCJDM's) now NLA tooling steel rocker arms. There was no real need for these, but I had them, so they went in. Could that be the source of the issue as oppose to out of spec lash pads? I do have a set of old stock rockers that I thankfully held on to that I can clean up if needed with some new lash pads. Any advise would be most welcome. Happy to order a new cam and start clean, but if there's no need to, I'd rather avoid it.

Two seater yes. JDM muffler style please.

Very nice! I wasn't suggesting that yours might be too low, just pondering aloud. I think the fact that I've got a header meant for an L20B is the root of many of my exhaust problems (I've wondered if it's an ever so slightly canted angle and if the mounting flange is positioned further away from the header flange such as to push the exhaust further down the car chassis - there just didn't seem to be enough room for the fujitsubo twin pipe without severe 'massaging' with the overall exhaust seeming to be too long for my 78 280Z. I'll get those measurements too, can see if that might be the issue. Yours looks like exactly the tight fitment I was after on an exhaust. Can you PM me pricing and shipping to Canada? Not sure whether your '17 pricelist is still current and I don't want to keep cluttering up your thread :)

Sean is it a fujitsubo gasket? Looks the same as the ones I used with the Fujitsubo twin pipe (that didn't fit my car as my car is too low!)

Sorry this took MONTHS. Jeez. Measurements on a original fujitsubo header attached. Let me know if you need anything else to compare. Mine was originally meant for an L20 (stamped as such), so I'd be interested to know if it's going to be too long or too short from the header flange to the exhaust flange. I can get those measurements too for you. Excuse all the copper gasket gunk.

Hi Sean, Glad to see how far Z story has come since the zclub.net days! I too am in the same boat with an old Trust/greddy header. Is your flange on the Street-sport header flange 'current' of the 'Needed now' one? Which is correct? I've got the header off the car, so I'll measure it up this evening for you. Ta

Sounds fantastic Chris!, is megasquirt Matt the same Matt at MT in Richmond Hill? Looking a tuner for my MSQ setup.

Marugen Shokai on mine I had some MSA ZG flares once...awful in so many ways. As you can see from pre-paint, they follow the body contours well - wheel sizes are 16x9 and 16x9.5 Watanabes running 225/50/16 and 245/50/16

PM'd you stu.

Both shaft bearings should be rebuildable if they were anything like mine (granted there are some slight differences between a 240/280 rack). I put the grease seal part number on my build thread, somewhere near the bottom of this page. http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/86608/1978-datsun-280z-gearbox-update?page=20 As for the shims, I'd suggest keeping everything and waiting until you've rebuilt it, check the preload as per the various guides/service manual, if you need the shims, you can always buy appropriate shim stock of the same thickness and trace/cut out another shim. Acklands Grainger and others suppliers carry it.

I did it with a blind puller http://retrorides.proboards.com/post/1958782

Just wanted to say how happy I have been with the harness I received from Kurk. He has been a huge help and always happy to give someone business this side of the border. He tested and repaired my MS3 unit, installed the MS3X daughter board for me, and had the main chip replaced under warranty with DIYautotune on realising that mine was hooped. The harness (along with many other cleaning up of the body harness) and using the fuse/relay block that Kurk supplied has saved me a number of headaches. I must stress that I have NEVER dealt with a vendor more willing to talk one through over multiple emails and long phone calls shooting the breeze about Datsuns on install and the best way to approach problems encountered during the course of that. It really is a credit to his personality and patience. I would highly, highly recommend this group buy. A video of the car running with LS1 truck coils, Kurks harness, 440cc Supra injectors and my very angry built (lots of Tomei, BHJ, Slover, Greddy and other juicy bits in there) L28 (I went with the 280ZXT turbo dizzy setup) can be seen at the link below. https://www.instagram.com/p/BLmJEzqDJPM/ Cheeky post of progress over the past 4 years... From this.. To this To this

PM'd you chaos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FucbvoFFy0 Great job Derek! You literally willed this thing into existence.

That makes sense Sleeper, seems to just be conflicting information depending where you go looking for it. It should be that the dizzy is spinning 2:1 the crank speed (i.e. the cam speed) that's how it's geared. cegrover - I've placed an order with the dealer for an 82-83 ZXT oil drive shaft so will get you photos/measurements when that comes in.