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FricFrac

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Everything posted by FricFrac

  1. Does the Haltec support the Nissan CAS with the 6-360 encoder wheel? You might need to switch over to the DIYautotune one...
  2. I supose I could copy and paste the title.... looking for an F40 wing and/or a whale tail for a 280ZX. I had a couple of sellers selling the F40 wing but they seem to have disappeared into the wood work...
  3. +1 for Borini63 - good guy to deal with, great selection of parts and very reasonable prices.
  4. I know the CA18ETs in the 200SX has the same ECU connectors as the Z31 and the 280ZX turbo if you're junk yard surfing... there may be some other Nissan's that use the ECCS style ECU connectors...
  5. Version two wasn't up to Byron's standards so he's developed a version 3. He's in the middle of a move but once he's done we'll get the third one trialed up and keep you posted on the progress. It has to be perfect
  6. KVRs for a daily driver or Porterfields for the track (band aid - you'll need to upgrade if you're really serious but Porterfields would be a good way to go for an Auto X)
  7. Looks better polished and anodized red Under the sodium vapour lamps makes the colours look funny but you get the idea. My blue toolbox is in the background - you can see how the light from the blue reflects off the polished anozided part making it look purple (red + blue)
  8. Looks better polished and anodized red Under the sodium vapour lamps makes the colours look funny but you get the idea. My blue toolbox is in the background - you can see how the light from the blue reflects off the polished anozided part making it look purple (red + blue)
  9. The TC rod also keeps the arm from rotating - ball joints on both ends removes the tension in that vector
  10. There are a few 280ZX aftermarket rad options now. MSA even carries one now.
  11. OK I've finally sourced the head bolts. My local parts place wanted 4x as much for the nuts, etc with a four to six week lead time. Ordered them from Regal at Northern Auto Parts for a fraction of what the local shop wanted and 7-10 days to get them in. Working on the turbo manifold a bit. Got a heavy blanking plate cut and had made a copper gasket and had it annealed to make it soft. I'll use these to block off the wategate flange on the turbo as I'll be using a stock T3 from a 280ZX with an internal wastegate. Got an old 280ZX turbo cast downpipe and hacked off the flange. Port matched it to the T3 outlet then tapered out for a mandrel bent 2 1/2" down pipe which I'll likely flare to 3". The turbo flange is a little rounded so it looks like there is a lip but it matches up perfectly.
  12. So apparently when I was told to use the L20b ARP set on the Z22 the person was assuming I was building a LZ. The L20B studs are WAY too long for the Z22 with the stock head and they don't make a Z22 kit (or any NAPS Z kits for that matter). I think I've found a stud that will work. ARP sells these as a individual stud - M10 x1.25 x 1.50 x 109mm PN: AM 4.300-2LB so 10 of these, 10 washers and nuts should make a Z22 ARP head bolt kit Just talking with ARP to find out if they'll make a kit of these to buy direct from them or through their suppliers so I can get this thing together! Picking away at the endless "little things" while I try to get the head studs squared away. Did some more porting and polishing on the exhaust manifold. I already matched the ports but I wanted to transistion and take some of the roughness of the casting out and round off any sharp edges going into the turbo flange. Cleaned it up and painted it satin black with some header paint to match the head.
  13. Fixed the last valve seat with the nick in it. All the valve springs and valves are re-installed. Spark plugs gaped and semi-indexed (picked the best of for the eight). Painted the head with high temp exhaust manifold paint to match the block. Ready for cam reinstall. The hot cam for the L28ET is the L28E NA cam. Hopefully the Z22 NA cam works well for a turbo application. Still undecided as to what turbo to run on this build. Probably will start with a T3 from an L28ET. I think a GT28 or GT30 would likely be a good final build turbo for this application. Big returns from a methanol injecton for the L series head and a boosted application - not so sure the hemi style head here will need the methanol as badly. Something to ponder for the future....
  14. Pretty much done with the head now. Lapped the valves in and hot tanked the head. There's one seat that has a nick in it we'll try to polish out then a quick clean and install the valves and cam. Had the old piston wrist pins pressed out and the new pistons and wrist pins installed. Sent that to the machinist which is the only machine work so far for a total of $62. Pistons are installed and started painting the block. One coat of primer over the old paint and a coat of semi gloss black engine enamel.
  15. Square head ports meet round manifold ports
  16. Ding Ding Ding! We have a winner! Well it looks like with some fairly aggressive but doable porting the KA24E manifold will work with the NAPS Z heads - woohoo! There is lots of material on the head on the sides of the port - just have to be careful on the bottom as it looks like that's where the water passages for the head reside. The log manifold is cast so there is lots of material to work with. I must say this manifold looks very nice and I suspect it will flow well. It's not optimal but with the large runners but smaller volume than a tubular manifold it should spool quickly (which means more power under the curve). The only place on the manifold that isn't smooth is the entry into the turbo flange which I'll clean up with the die grinder. I made templates for both sides and marked off where the material needs to be removed to match everything up. Looks like it was made for the Z22! I'm hoping the offset top mount will clear the strut towers. I looks like it should be fine but I won't know until we get there.
  17. After spending a few days researching I think I might have a solution to my turbo manifold question - as in what am I going to run for a turbo manifold. Someone mentioned that the KA24E exhaust layout was the same as the NAPS Z head. From what I can tell it looks like it will work but there isn't any way to tell without seeing it up against the head. I don't have access to a manifold and I hate to order parts without knowing for sure but I found one for a good price and if it doesn't work there are a ton of S13 guys around who would probably buy it. The exhaust outlet on the Z22 is oval(ish) whereas the manifold for the KA is round so I'll have to do some port matching one way or another which I would have done anyhow.The other question since I had the option was log or tubular manifold. After much deliberation I went with the log manifold as it will spool faster because of the lower total volume inside the log manifold. There is also less thermal loss in the log manifold compared to the tubular which also helps spool more quickly. While spooling doesn't give you more power it does give you more power under the curve. The log manifold is top mount and it's offset towards the front of the car which should keep out of the way of the strut towers.
  18. Parts back from powder coating L16b oil pan for the conversion. Valve cover is bright red - for some reason it's bright orange in these pictures
  19. Woohoo! Parts! ITM hypereutectic pistons, bearings, gasket set, Melling M111 high volume oil pump, chain guides, ARP head and rod bolts, etc
  20. Z24i optical dizzy with a modified L28ET oil pump spindle - voila!
  21. Didn't get a spindle with my Z24i dizzy so I had one "made up" from an L28ET (which is too long) with the optical dizzy (eg not an '81 with the CAS). Sleaved for a nice compression fit. The original stock dizzy spindle beside the modified one.
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