FricFrac

The stock EFI system is very crude. If you want to tune your car run and aftermarket ECU. It's a very worth while investment. Playing with the AFM is akin to bubble gum and twigs tuning. Are you running an intercooler or the stock J pipe? Are you running the '81 turbo CAS or the 82-83 optical dizzy? What year ECU? Do you have the stock base for your dizzy? There are a significant number of diffferent distributor based for the L series engines.

You're not using the temp sensor for the gauge - it's not very accurate. Use the CHTS on the side of the head. It uses an EV1 style connector like the injectors. MS is more flexible than NISTUNE. I'd go MS any day on anything older than a Z32... for the Z32 and up NISTUNE is a good option since the ECU's have some brains to them. The DIY optical wheel is only needed if you are going sequential or distributorless ignition. Stock injectors are low impedance.

Found the problem. The starters have a spring on them between the top plate and bottom plate and a circlip that keeps them from coming up off the shaft under the spring pressure. I made sure to align the tooth that seats onto the inner portion of the starter but the spring was pushing the top of the starter up too much and the tooth was disengaging. I'm getting a solid idle now - thanks guys! Now to tuning

Would it have to be air before the jets? Or would it still draw air in after but go lean because it's not pulling fuel?

Why would it idle fine for a minute then climb to 3K. If there was a leak wouldn't it rise right away?

I just rebuilt my triple Mikuni PHH 44s reinstalled and set the pilot screw to it's original setting of 1.25 turns out from bottom. The butter fly valves are completely closed and it will idle around 1000 RPM(ish) then it will idle right up to 2.5 to 3K RPM after a minute or so. That's with the starters turned off. If I play with the butter fly valve opening (idle set screw) and turn in the pilot screw to about 3/4 it seems to run but its rough. I haven't balanced it out yet. I'm trying to understand what's going on so a little direction on my misunderstandings would be great. My understanding is that the pilot screw adjusts the amount of air added to the mixture. Turn it in - less air. Turn it out - more air. So the part that confuses me is if I turn it in to 3/4 and open the butter fly valves it seems to run better. I can understand that the air is metered differently through the pilot screw adjustment than the butter fly valve but that would be at various RPMs. Shouldn't it be the same at idle? I rebuilt the carbs completely but I was told not to mess with the throttle plates and shafts so I never replaced the shaft seals. I'm assuming air could be leaking past the shaft but it never did before and I would think it would have to be a significant leak to go from 1000 RPM to 3000 RPM. Thanks guys any help is always appreciated! I'm dying to get this back on the road. The plan was to have it ready at the begining of the summer but I kept doing the "while I'm at it" lol.

It's been a long time since I've played with the programable micro controllers so I've been looking for a project to get started back up. While I was rebuilding my triple Mikuni's for the 240Z an idea started. I have a MAP sensor in my Mega Squirt 3 ECU for the 280ZXT. I got six of those sensors hooked them up to an Arduino development board and an LCD display. A little programing and voila! a six port digital manometer to balance out the carbs! It's set up right now to measure kPa. I've tweeked it a bit to calibrate the sensors so they are within a single increment of each other instead of about four.

The 81 CAS and the 82-83 Dizzy have the same plug configuration. The '81 CAS is a reluctor pickup that translates the signal to a square wave. The '82-83 is an optical encoder that outputs a square wave. As far as I can tell you can use either or. If that's not the case I'd like to know what the differences are that would prohbit them from being interchangable. It's not a wiring issue - is there an ECU issue? If the two are interchangeable the '81 CAS tends to have a less than steller track record compared to the '82-83 dizzy/optical encoder. I would recomend using the '82-83 but as ppl have mentioned you need the oil pump shaft to match up. The L series turbo had a splined shaft to make timing more precise/less slop.

Just curious if you ever did try a colder plug. Plugs make a big difference in a turbo application for the L28ET. I would also put some more effort into the air flow to, through and past the intercooler and radiator. Your intercooler is a thermal capacitor and at speed you should be bringing your temps down significantly when not under boost. The Spearco probably has twice the thermal mass with it's cast end tanks as a typical ebay intercooler. You should be ahead of the curve not behind it.... ducting and placement of the intercooler is what I would investigate. You're running MS so you already have the tools to see what difference mods will make.

You have to go through it step by step. The FSM should solve 99% of the problems out there as long as you go through the whole thing and verify that it's working or not. If something fails and you skip to the next section because you think close enough or it's probalby OK you're not going to be able to fix the issues. Fix that problem then move to the next item in the chapter. It's a learning curve and it can be frustrating but there is plenty of help if you get confused and the answer is probably already typed up - a simple search usually finds what you are looking for. The connectors are a major source of electrical problems on these cars often causing intermittent issues, etc. Make sure the connection is good - all the clips to hold the connector are still there. Make sure there is no corrosion in the connector on the plug or socket and that the connector isn't cracked. Make sure as well especially by the injectors that the wire isn't hardened and cracked. Don't band aid the connectors with a connector cleaner - replace the connectors with new ones otherwise you'll see the same problem again. You can clean the sensor side up with a very fine 800 grit if they are brass terminals. If not they are plated and the plating has worn through and they will oxidize very quickly causing more intermitant problems.

Lots of guys running 17"s. Check the Rota group by thread...

Does anyone have pictures of the tonneau cover? Never seen one before.... 84987 and 84986

Post a picture of this rare relay. Make sure you get a pic with the bottom pins showing

This is possibly more hideous than the Toyota Tercel wagon... or at least the twin sister to...

Oh and if you go with the MS3/MS3X you don't need an EDIS system AND you can tune it yourself which is super important to make power

Lol more like MegaSquirt Rank Amature. Most of the time with MS it's a setting not some mechanical issue (although it can be mechanical). What is your MS setup - injectors, WB02, etc, etc. I have a good base map for a stock tune on MS3. I would recomend going to MS3 and the MS3X daughter board if you are thinking of running a distributorless ignition. PM me your e-mail and I'll send you my tune and you can check it against your setup. More details on your configuration would be helpful.

Does anyone have the specs for the "K" grind?

Congrats on getting everything together. Sometimes it takes that year to get everything in place within the budget. Sounds like you got a good deal on the motor and that's the way I'd do the build - get the turbo swap in there first. I would defniately go with a MS set up though as your next performance purchase as it will effect everthing from here on out. Take some serious though about putting that Chinese turbo in as that's a good way to finish off your engine - too many horror stories.

You know there is also a ZX hatch that doesn't have a wiper?

Lol nice response People don't even know what a stock 280ZX looks like anymore for the most part anyhow. I like it. Nice cheap mod and it looks good. Same plans for the rear?

I would think about an air-to-water intercooler. I'd put the water intercooler where you have yours right now but insulate it to prevent adding extra heat from the engine bay to the system. You can mount the radiator in front of your stock rad and the hose is easy to route.

Nice. Don't see too many wide body S130s. I'm assuming it's not the Kaminari but the IMSA kit? Just curious what the hood scoops are for? I'm assuming it's just looks since it no longer lines up with the sheet metal ducting under the hood. Is that part of the IMSA kit? Have you though about putting wider wheels on the car to bring them out to fit the wide body? I've never seen an S130 with a wide body kit that the wheels fit other than the actuall IMSA race cars.

Sounds like a bad connection.... check for corrosion on the connectors, etc, etc.... Could also be a bad connection in the gauge itself if it has a circuit board - cold solder joint, etc.

I want it.

Nice. I've been looking for a 810 but it seems they are pretty rare...