FricFrac

... and the information about thermal conductivity is wrong. It's pretty common knowledge that aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat which is why it's often used for heat sinks in computers and other electronics. Copper is one of the best but because of cost/performance considerations we usually see aluminum for transfering heat. Aluminum is about half as thermally conductive as copper and brass is half as thermally conductive as aluminum. So for our application an aluminum rad will be much more efficient than a brass one. Ever seen a brass intercooler? http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-metals-d_858.html

Sow's Ear: Silk Purse:

Lol no iPad - Android. It's WAY easier for developers to get stuff done on the Android platform so that's the way most of this custom stuff is starting to go. Velcro is your friend

I was playing with the new Shadow Logger software for the Android to implement a HUD for the Mega Squirt 3 I'll be running in the car. Man this is slick! PDA on the dash Piece of reflective window tint and voila - HUD! Of course pictures don't do it justice so a quick and dirty video of the HUD

+1 - most ppl run the "GT35R" and have been very happy with it. 4K seems way late for this turbo so I'm assuming your running a much larger A/R As for porting the stock manifold there are a few runners which are quite restricted by "bumps" and the inlet to the turbo doesn't match in size and the corners are quite sharp. There's not a lot of work to reduce the bumps and smooth the transitions into the turbo. I think the small effort is worth it.

Matt and the crew have provided outstanding support for the MS platform. Stuff blows up but it can also be fixed. It's hard to beat the MS setup in the bang for the buck department. Keep us posted

Are you running the auto tune for the VE?

Took the engine apart so it's all sitting in bits on my buddy's garage on the bench. Took the head apart and started to give 'er some loving: The gratuitous before picture of the carbon coated chamber: After a good long cleaning: After I cleaned the combustion chamber I saw quite a bit of damage. Looks like something bounced around in all the chambers. Of course the first one I started working on was the worst and I forgot to take before pictures but you get the idea from this one: After some sweet loving she's starting to clean up. Still in the process of cleaning the chamber up but it looks like there is hope Tried to remove as little as possible but I'm not too worried about reducing the compression ratio from the small amount of material removed. Just trying to keep the chamber as clean and slick as possible to keep any hot spots to a minimum and thus prevent detonation. It will of course help with flow but reducing detonation is more important IMHO in this turbo application.

And here's my dizzy from a Z24i with the optical encoder wheel. I might be able to use the wheel as is since it has a larger slot for TDC. MS3 firmware 1.1.2 supports the Nissan CAS so we'll see if that works. If not I've got a 24-1-1 50mm optical encoder wheel we cut on the water jet that should work instead. I cut it for the L28ET but it's the same size conveniently Has the same 10 spline count as the L28ET oil pump shaft which should work in the Z22 Stock 50mm optical encoder wheel. Same size as the L28ET and VG30E dizzy. Different in that it has a larger slot for TDC whereas the L28ET are all equal size (and six instead of four slots on the second ring) The pigtail looks like it goes right into the dizzy but it's just a cover plate that holds the more common rectangular four pin connector - same as the L28ET dizzy. Nice as this makes it easier to interface to

Of course I haven't even had her towed home and I'm researching engine swaps. You know the usual KA24, SR20, VG30E and ET, etc... I'm trying to get 'er running in the drive way and I'm not having a lot of luck. I rebuilt the carb not knowing what kind of shape it's in. Getting better. Find a bunch of vacuum leaks. Replace the weak coil. I'm an Electronics Eng so I pull the stock harness out of the engine bay and give 'er a rebuild. I've got all the connectors for the 240Z, etc so I was already good to go there - add some new ground wires, etc. The whole time I'm fighting with this I'm thinking how much easier it would be if I was running Mega Squirt like I just built for the 280ZXT. That's when I start thinking about building an L16 turbo with EFI (MS3). I start researching about how to make this happen. I think it would be a fun little engine and I don't need an insane build - I've got other cars that make lots of power and the L16 turbo is kinda unique as most people don't bother. I start researching EFI manifolds and figure I'm going to have to build my own. Then I start trying to figure out how I'm going to trigger the EFI. Looking into an L28ET dizzy, etc and I find out that the Z24i has an optical dizzy. It also has a hemi head - hmmm that's perfect for a turbo build. A friend of mine tells me he has a Z22 so I do some horse trading (thanks Greg!) and now I'm going down the Z22 EFI turbo road. She burns oil so now's the time for a rebuild. The tentative plans are a full gasket set, ITM hyperutectic pistons and rings (only $50 more than rings alone - seems like a no brainer), ARP head and rod bolts (good for a boosted engine and the NAPSZ seems to have an issue with the head bolts getting loose after time), and Cleavite crank and rod bearings. Once we get her cracked open we'll see if anything else needs doing but I'm trying to keep this fairly low cost. I picked up an extra oil pan (thanks Peter!) and oil pickup (thanks Hayden!) so I don't need to rip the L16 apart to build this thing. So the challenge of this beast is to get it into EFI land. I'm already part way there researching for the L16 EFI conversion. I need an EFI manifold from an early 200SX (Z20) and an optical dizzy from the later Z24i Hardbody. DatsunMike as always has been a pile of help. Posted tons of picks and pointed me in the right direction. Found a dizzy from a Z24i (thanks Sealick!) and while I was looking at a 280ZX for a good friend of mine I look down in the dirt literally and there lies a 200SX intake plenum and runners - the last piece of the puzzle (thanks Robert!) So here's the plenum and runners before the masaging begins (minus 12lbs of pine needles) Intake runners bead blasted, ported and polished Intake plenum ported to accept a 240SX 60mm throttle body. Might be a little overkill so I may have to go to a 280ZX 48mm TB for better throttle response. We'll have to see how it works out. Intake plenum with 240SX TB and an adapter plate made of 1/2" aluminum. Two screw holes are tapped into the plate to mount the TB and the other two line up with the stock mounts. Third set of holes mounts to the stock location below the TB. Cut the water inlet/outlet off the TB to reduce plumbing. Plenum and TB test fitted. TB adapter is port matched to the plenum

Well I guess I should start a build thread. Like everyone and their dog here long time 510 fan always wanted one but being a Z car guy first and foremost the 510 kinda went to the back burner. Kept an eye out and missed a few but most of the stuff around here is rotten and goes for a fortune. Long story short a guy I knew had one about three years ago. It was a project he picked up from a kid. Put the car back together, added bubble flairs and painted it flat black. Found a rebuilt L16 and dropped it in. Shortly thereafter he found his dream car - '60's Impala which he proceeded to dump huge piles of cash into to build his dream car. I told him if he was ever going to sell the 510 to let me know. Three years later I get a message on my phone from our local classified adds which pops up any time anything Datsun is listed. 95% of the time it's either wheels that fit a Datsun, books with Datsun in a picture on the 59th page or some rotten piece of junk. Anyhow this time it turns out to be this 510 and it sure looked like the guy's car that I talked to years ago so I call the number right away. He answers the phone and I ask him if this is so and so and it turns out it's the guy. He says he just posted the ad less than five minutes ago. Anyhow I ended up buying it and so it begins.... After she arrives at home with some of her stable mates: Missing the rear cover so I covered her shame with a piece of sheet metal till I can get around to fitting something properly.

Yes you just need to take the +12V side of the injectors and add the resistors in series with each individual injector or you can get an '82-83 ECU that doesn't need resistors. The CAS signal is the same for both - in fact the '81 reluctor setup has the same pig tail plug (round four pin) as the '82-83 optical encoder wheel dizzy setup.

Check it out! Shadow Dash MS for Android devices. This is a slick piece of software that interfaces to your MS via bluetooth interface (need a serial to bluetooth module to talk to your MS). http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/shadowdashmsmenu Shadow Dash MS for Android Once again MegaSquirt tuning software stands in front of competitors. All new Shadow Dash MS provides not only mobile logging via your Android phone or tablet, but now the dashboards you have appreciated with TunerStudio have been brought to your Android phone or tablet as well. Actually TunerStudio dashboards with additional support for images in indicators and gauges. (Yes that is coming to TunerStudio too) Released for Final Round Beta Testing, Android dashboards and data logging with style. Tunerstudio Dashboard Style and flexibility Shadow Logger simplicity Runs on you Android Phone or Tablet MSL format data logging Tune save & Load with normal msq files Support for all MegaSquirt Firmwares Slide between 4 Dashboards that are open at all times Android Sensor data (GPS, Accelerometer, Magnetic, etc) HUD Mode Support for Android 2.2 and up. Watch the introduction Bluetooth to RS232 Adapter required. Get one here This may look like a TunerStudio Dashboard, but it isn't TunerStudio, this screenshot is from Android! Download Now Look close and you will notice the addition of accelerometer and speedometer data. Download Now

Has any of the old Electromotive L28 turbo stuff been reverse engineered? They were making huge HP with 1980's technology.

Thanks Tony for the info. I follow the rules for a reason but the most interesting part is knowing WHY the rules are there in the first place.

Summer love for the 240Z. Well it was suppose to be done for the spring but it was the middle of the summer before I finished the "tidy up". - Rebuilt and painted the carbs - Rebuilt the headers (yea what a mess - patched, grapes hanging inside. If I knew what a mess they were before I started I would have bought new headers. I'm glad I was able to keep them as they are the original old school headers the car had in '72.), POR 20, wrapped and sealed, added O2 bung for WB02 - Ported and polished intake runners, added bosses for individual vacuum ports for adjusting carbs, etc. - Powder coated runners, fuel rail, etc - New stainless brackets for fuel rail - New fuel line and heat shrink clamps (cool clamps just wish they didn't have white printing on them) - Modified throttle linkage with RC 1/8th scale truck parts - u-joints and adjustable rods. I have since upgraded to the 280ZX dizzy and still need to do the starter (choke) cable and stainless piping for the breather/catch can.

Better rephrase that North American blanket statement - it's zeds here in Canada as well ;P

... because it let a rank amature upgrade his 280ZX to an L28ET easy swap and easy mods with more RWHP that he'll really need and learn a ton along the way instead of getting in over his head with a swap and fabrication beyond his abilities. Fast working car vs potentially fast project taking up space, eating money and collecting dust. Besides most of my other Z's have essentially the same engine..... and possibly a 510 I'm picking up - old school firewall hack L6 My 240Z engine bay

Looking for a NAPS Z24i dizzy with the built in CAS. As far as I can tell it comes from the 1986-1990 Pathfinder or Hardbody but the one's I found didn't have the CAS. Doing a Mega Squirt NAPS Z2.2 build/conversion.... Thanks!

Good deal for a DUTSUN

The ZXR had a whale tale but they only made 1001 of those and they were NA. I don't think they were as aggressive as this one...

Mega Squirt it then you can run the proper injectors and tune it properly. You'll be able to squeeze the most HP out that way....

IMHO I would go with a 300RWHP build L28ET swap. That's a really fast car and one of the best bangs for the $$. If you start going beyond 400HP at the crank you need to start spending more serious money on the build. Clevite main bearings (MS1106P)- $55 Clevite rod bearings (CB966P) - $26 ITM gasket set (09-00521) - $67 ARP head bolts (202-4206) - $150ish price has gone up on this part so you might want to shop around and see if you can get a better price. I found it for $135 ARP Rod bolts (202-6003) - $50 ITM Pistons (RY6134STD for NA - RY6140STD for Turbo - part number varies based on oversize) - $32 per piston/rings/wrist pins - excellent street performance piston - hypereutectic If you want to upgrade the oil pump I recomend (based on a lot of research) the Melling M111 (as opposed to the M90) - $70 (great price at Northern Auto Parts!) Northern Auto Parts has good pricing and carries all the above but they may need to order in the ITM pistons. Clarks Discount has good pricing as well. For the head I would get it ported and polished and a valve job. Drop in an "A" grind NA cam and replace the valve springs if required. The P90A is a very good head and there isn't any real reason to go with bigger valves than you already have stock. Port the turbo manifold. The stock log is a decent performer surprisingly enough. If you can find a euro spec turbo manifold it's even better. Good luck The intake runners are ~55% the diameter of the intake valves. Hog out the intake runners as much as possible as this is one of the major restrictions on the L28E/ET setups. You can also run a 240SX throttle body which ups you to 60mm. There is lots and lots of info on the rest of the turbo build but a couple of spoon fed quickies... Intercooler - this stuff usually get's overlooked in most builds -> . A lot of people will get as big of a intercooler as they can stuff under the hood but that's typically not the best idea. Long end tanks/short runners reduce the presure drop/restriction. Increase the efficency of your turbo system is free horsepower. The heavier your intercooler (cast end tanks) typically the more thermal mass you have. That gives you the ability to remove heat for a longer period of time until you have to take the heat back out of the system. Ducting - you can greatly increase the efficiency of your intercooler by traping and directing the air through the intercooler itself. Sheet metal and electric fans can help accomplish this. Turbo - lots of options. T3/T4 is a good go-to as well as the Holset from the 90's turbo diesels. The Holset has an impressive map and works well with the L28ET. If you've got $10K for your whole build I'd spend a chunk of that on the GT35R or even the GTX35R. Borg Warner has the EFR series which looks very nice but I don't think a lot of guys have experimented with it. Again make more HP with a more efficient system and the turbo is one of those places to retain efficency. Exhaust - not much in the way of aftermarket so you'll likely have to get something fabed up. The less restriction on the outlet side of your turbo the quicker it can spool which means more HP under the curve. The stock downpipe is a huge choke and a sharp angle. Get at least a 2 1/2" mandrel bend even with the stock T3 - 3" if it works with a larger turbo setup. Wraping the manifold helps keep the heat (the same energy that drives the turbo) in the exhaust system. External wastegates and proper piping also increases efficiency especially if you are upgrading to a larger turbo. Electronically controlled wasted gates will also spool up faster as the waste gate isn't opened until required. A mechanical waste gate will start to partially open and increase the spool time on the turbo. BOV - helps protect your turbo from stoping suddenly when you close the throttle. Consider recirc on the system as it will keep the turbo spooled up and can help with performance. Go Fast Bits (GFB) makes a device called the Turbo Fuse which IMHO is a cheap insurance policy. It turns your BOV into a pop off valve which the stock system uses. ECU - an aftermarket ECU will let you tune the engine and squeeze as much potential as possible out of it. Mega Squirt is a popular bang for the buck but it requires some forthought as to how you will implement it. It's very doable and there is lots of info on the site here with regards to the Mega Squirt setup on the L28ET. A dyno tune is the way to go if it's HP your chasing. I think the MS is one of the best performance mods you can do even to a stock turbo setup and it grows with the entire system regardless of what performance mods you do. Water/Methanol - something to consider.... Spark plugs - something that is often overlooked but can help prevent knock. Stick with the NGKs (BPRE) but you can go to a colder plug with a higher performing (eg hotter combustion chamber) L28ET.... BluDestiny makes a good point about the suspension. The FIRST mod I do to an S130 is the stock springs/struts replacement. The HPK255 is a good spring/strut combo for a reasonable price. If you want a little better I'd go with the Megan Street S13 coilovers and mod them to fit the car. The rears basically bolt in (swap the top hat so it's three bolt instead of the two bolt S13). For brakes on a street car I'd just change all the pads to KVRs and replace the brake lines with SS. You can get a kit from MSA or just order in the individual lines - Earls are the ones they use in the MSA kit and IIRC Northern Auto Parts sells them at a good price.

Lol I'll trade you an NA for a turbo engine. That being said I would encourage you to keep the turbo setup. There isn't a lot more to the turbo setup compared to the NA other than an intercooler configuration but most of that is in front of the radiator. You can also go with a water/meth with the stock J-Pipe. You should be able to tune the turbo for the same fuel economy as the NA. It's the throttle position that will affect your fuel economy. With MS you should be able to get rid of a LOT of extra stuff from the engine bay.....