FricFrac

First two orders on their way with the third and fourth to follow shortly Hopefully we can get some installation pictures up for you guys soon.

I've had a few clients asking about using a 240SX TPS with their stock 280ZX Throttle body. You can sacrifice the stock 280ZX Throttle Position Switch and use it's back plate as an adapter for the 240SX TPS. You just need to drill some holes and you're good to go. There is a small piece of plastic on the 240SX that needs to be trimmed down so the TPS will sit flush on the adapter.

It should be. I work full time and do this on the side. The response has been very positive and I'll be pretty busy getting the first orders out as promptly as possible. These are quite time consuming but I take pride in my work and I'm not willing to compromise on quality. Hopefully we'll have some before and after pictures in a few weeks once I get the first sets out.

Body filler bites best with a mechanical bond. Rough up the metal with 40 grit and that seems to give you optimal adhesion. Personally I'd go with body filler to metal with the epoxy primer as the last product before paint. That was the advice from my paint supplier and it seems to work.

I've designed and built several Mega Squirt harnesses for various Datsun projects. I'm an Electronics Engineering Technologist so I've designed these harnesses for optimal noise immunity with high grade wiring to provide you with a highly reliable backbone for your Mega Squirt EFI system. Electronic noise can cause all sorts of gremlins in your system. To eliminate these issues all harnesses are configured with a robust grounding system as well as shielded cabling for all sensors. The wiring is heat and chemical resistant to provide you with years of trouble free use. EV1 connectors for the injectors use the quick disconnect plugs for ease of installation and removal – no more fighting with wire clips. The basic harness is designed to plug into the stock sensors and injectors found on a stock L28ET engine. This includes the injectors, 82-83 dizzy with optical encoder wheel (allows the use of stock or custom encoder wheels), TPS (after market – stock is a throttle position switch – MS requires a throttle position sensor which is a potentiometer rather than a switch), CHTS, Knock sensor (wired to main connector but not hooked up – MS requires extra hardware for the knock sensor), ignition coil, IAT (after market – stock IAT is built into the AFM but should be removed due to air restriction – MS uses a MAP sensor so the AFM is not required) and WBO2 sensor and power. Connectors for the IAT, TPS and WBO2 will vary from installation to installation so the buyer can provide their own connectors for installation during the build of the harness or install them on the prepped associated cabling. Spares can be run for extra power, etc as requested. You can add a relay/fuse block assembly to the basic harness. One will provide power for an ignition enabled fuse panel which will provide fused power for the MS ECU, injectors, ignition coil, WBO2 and fuel pump as well as spares for additional power nearby the ECU. The second relay provides ECU control and powers the fuel pump. This can be configured to plug directly into the stock body wiring harness on the 280ZX and control the stock fuel pump using the stock fuel pump wiring if requested. This eliminates the optional diyautotune relay and relay harness and gives you addtional fuses for your WBO2 and igntion coil as well as a spare. The assembled relay board and relay board harness is $179. Custom assembly is $150. Optional custom cabling such as COP/CNP distributorless wiring is also available. Typically the connectors will be installed with filter caps in close proximity to the COP/CNP connector to eliminate back EMF from the coil discharge and integrated into the harness. Custom lengths and spacing for connectors can be built to the buyer’s specification. Basic harness is $550. Basic customization is also included in this price. Additional cost for extra sub harnesses such as the COP/CNP is typically about $150. I can also build and test your MS 2/3/3x ECU and load a base tune but this will be limited to my time schedule and number of custom orders. This will allow the buyer to plug in the harness and ECU and get the car up and running (provided the car is mechanically functioning correctly) with minimal fuss. A proper dyno tune is highly recommended for optimal performance. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.

If you are getting all the V6 swap for free then go for it otherwise the L28ET is way cheaper for up to 300rwhp even if you have to replace the engine.

I think the minimum is $20

Fuseable link in the wrong spot?

I assumed that there was a reason it wasn't done. Is there no issue going from the square port to the diamond shaped log manifold? I thought that abrupt transition was detrimental to flow

Tried searching and all I come up with on the P90 heads is the intake manifold port matched but the exhaust ports are square rather than port matched to the diamond (?) shaped exhaust manifold and gasket. Is there a reason why people aren't port matching the exhaust for the turbo manifolds? Is there not enough material before you hit the water runners inside the head? I'm assuming you would want to port match on the exhaust side as well but all the pics I can find are not port matched to the gasket/exhaust manifold.

Updates?

So after a year and two weeks Byron finally got the prototypes from his designer in his hand yesterday. He'll be welding them up and test fiting them hopefully tomorrow.... pics to follow

81 turbo is VR, 82-83 turbo is Hall/optical

Just an FYI the 82-83 S130 had a Bitching Betty as well as the Maxima of the era IIRC....

Is there a reason you want to use the 280ZX cleaner? It's gigantic and heavy compared to a K&N cone filter...

Gollum excellent info - not really much to add to that. Good point on the MAF as well - had quite a few friends with problems with engine swaps because of a lack of laminar air flow in the MAFs. MAP works great in my applications and it tough to get a good setup going with the MAF when you're trying to cram stuff into your engine bay with intercooler piping, etc. Proper tuning is critical. I had my first MS3 running great. The guy who bought the car added and intercooler, turned the boost up 35bs and had it tuned and gained another 50rwhp. Got rid of some hesitation as well. I calibrate all my CHTS with a thermometer, hot water and a multi meter. They are all close but each one can be different to some degree (no pun intended) so I just take the numbers down and add them to the parameters. Matt and Jerry at diyautotune.com wrote a great book with a lot of info directly related to MS http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Fuel-Injection-Systems-HP1557-ebook/dp/B003QMLC5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392653857&sr=8-1&keywords=Performance+Fuel+Injection+Systems

Resistance changing with temperature is a signal The CHTS is a critical sensor on the L-Jetronic setup. The 240SX automatic has both a switch like the 280Z/ZX TPS (throttle position SWITCH in this case) and a pigtail for the TPS (throttle position SENSOR). IIRC the three pin Bosch style connector is the switch on the automatic 240SX TPS - not sure if it's wired the same as the 280Z/ZX TPS.

Never use dielectric grease on your electrical contacts. The only place you want to use dielectric grease is on the rubber boot portion of your spark plug wires. It's an insulator and while it does keep water out it reduces the current carrying capability of your connectors. It's a really bad idea.

Check the voltage with everything in place. That way you are checking the connections as well where a lot of your electrical problems come from. Do you have a bad ground or disconnected something if it was working before?

Regulator would have been my first guess but NewZed is already on it

Here is my project I've been brewing for a LONG time finally starting to come together. Almost ready for injectors Radius for the runners Plenum body with tapered and angled neck ready for 60mm TB Tapered runners - tapers by 2.5% to increase velocity Flange ready to be machined for injectors/fuel rail. I was going to use a hacked off stock flange but I didn't like the abrupt transition.

I bought a 280ZX with a push button for the starter as well. Instead of spending $15 on a new ignition switch they mickey moused this thing together. It was more work to mickey mouse the switch in than to fix the problem in the first place. Get it back to stock as Miles said and you should be good to go.

Remember our injectors run at around 37 PSI whereas fuel injectors are rated on a pressure of 43.5 PSI. If our injectors which are rated at 279 and it's based on the stock fuel pressure they would be about 30 cc injectors. I couldn't find out if our stock injectors Are Based On Stock Fuel pressure or 43.5 PSI. Another thing to consider is if you are going to upgrade for more power you will likely need bigger injectors - no sense in buying them twice. Make sure you are getting power to your injector before you write it off. All the ECCS can tell you is if current is flowing through the injector - not if it is opening or has no power to it, bad ret urn, etc

Something wrong with the ignition switch or starter solenoid? May have just happened to fail coincidentally when you had the ECCS hooked up. The ECU doesn't control the starter.

Please tell me you're using a pencil soldering iron and not a soldering gun....