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John C

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Everything posted by John C

  1. My frame rail width in my 240 was just under 25 inches.I'd order the 24x19. John C
  2. That's smoking man!Any more problems with the tech inspectors? John C
  3. Nion, If you are running a GM HEI distributer you could replace it with a smaller diamater MSD distributer later on when funds permit.Or you could slide the engine ahead only 1/4 of an inch and make sure you distributer is installed correctly, then when timing adjustment is made it would only need to be turned a small amount. John C
  4. Let me know how you guys make out with your conversions, I know they will be more than sufficient but.... I realy need a stub shaft that will pass my track's tech inspection.Thats why I must have an NHRA approved stub shaft. (Those guys are really tough on my car) I think it's because it makes the "race only" cars look bad compared to my little street legal Z. John C
  5. We need to design some NHRA legal stub axles to fit the 240 260 and 280.We seem to have the center section and half shafts more than covered with the r200,r230 setup. I read an article about Jim Biondo using 31 spline C3 Corvette stub shafts.Does anyone have any links to sites? Specifications?Or any other ideas? I don't want to stick a solid axle in just yet. Thanks John C
  6. Thanks guys, I have a turbo 400 now and was wondering if there was much sense changing it.Its been in the car without a problem for two years and wanted something that would rob less hp.I don't want to change it if I can't pick up at least 2 tenths. John C
  7. Does anyone have any numbers or know of any sites that can give me some info on the hp it takes to run each of these tranies? Thanks. John C
  8. On paper 535 rwhp, 642 at the flywheel.This is based on a 10.35 et with 125 shot of nos and a 3000lb car. John C
  9. BLKMGK, Those pic's of the half shaft loops were from my car.It runs low 10's and still has the stock 240 half shafts,u joints and stub shafts which I've run for the last 3 years.The only problem I had was the split pin in the rear end breaking . John C
  10. I know for sure that the 5.0 mustangs have a 4.25 bolt pattern.I think it's a 4.5 backspacing. John C
  11. I have found the stock half shafts rear end and stubs have held up very well to repeated 10 second passes ,must be my steeper 3:90 gears. The largest tires I have found to work on my car are M/T 26x10.50 15 et streets. (actualy measure 26x8.5 on stock rims ) The track I race at is constantly giving me a hard time on the speeds my car is running, and I think they won't stop until it has a solid rear and a full cage. PS. What gears, and rpms are you running off the end of the 1/4. And are you launching on the juice? John C
  12. I built a little aluminum mini home over my cell and it passed tech last weekend without a problem.I also have a gell cell in a plastic battery box that passed tech. John C
  13. I have someone bump the starter over a few times while I hold down on the distributer until it droops in place.(Just my two cents worth.) John C
  14. I'm runing the same MSD parts on my engine up to 7000 rpm and have had very good luck.I'd check your valve springs, they may be weak.
  15. Mike, Could you post or email me some Canadian prices on all the parts needed for the coil over conversion?Thanks. John C
  16. I am also interested in a Canadian distributer for a set of coil overs,mounts and stuts. John C
  17. Scottie, I am running 2 small NHRA legal loops that I built with 1 inch of clearance around the drive shaft due to the small trans tunnel. BLKMGK has some pics of half shaft loops I emailed him and maybe can post them since I don't know how. John c
  18. Andrew, Insert a large pry bar between the dif case and your flange, give it a quick snap sideways.This should disengage the snap ring that holds the flange into the side gear. John C
  19. You know what they say Andrew ,If you want something done you have to do it yourself. John C
  20. Andrew, I'm glad to hear it's something simple.How long before your up and running?
  21. Andrew, Your loose converter bolts will definitely give you a rattle and it could be hard on your pump,bushing and seal. Also check the flywheel around the crank bolts for cracks.Another place you can leak fluid from is the gasket between the pump and trans case.As for your converter I know they will rattle some when shaken,but take it to a good trans shop and have them check it and your pump . John C P.S. Remove your trans pan and check for debris.A small amount is normal.
  22. Andrew, Aren't you running a 700 trans? I had the pump let go on mine also.Found out I broke the stator in the converter and a piece found it's way into the pump, which then pumped all kinds of crap through the trans.Now all I need to repair it is a new 3200 converter,front pump,seal kit and a few clutches.I hope yours isn't that bad. John
  23. I think around 25 to 30lbs heavier for the cast heads.The 350 turbo I think is around 30lbs lighter,never weighed them on a scale though. John C
  24. Less than two months left Andrew, you better hurry up.All I have to do is drop my car off the stands and drag it to the strip. I can't wait!Giddy up! John C
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