greenmonster80

Good news. I got a reply from Redline. Apparently they sent me the wrong mounting kit. What I should have gotten is something involving 1/2 nuts. It should be here soon. As for why did I buy TWM parts from Redline. Price is the main motivation. I was able to get everything $300 cheaper thru Redline. Plus they have been real good about working with me after I first contacted them during my stay in Iraq. I will also be purchasing their engine management system as well.

Finally got my ITB'S from Redline. A warning is due as for the instalation. First off trash the carb style fasteners. They do not fit. The body portion is thicker than the old carbing bodies. There is not enough room between the outer wall and the actual bolt holes to run the washers and nuts to hold it together. Do not fret. Wth the help of my local Lowes I was able to solve this. A bit more fustrating than simply dropping the body on the manifold and tighten 4 nuts but it works with minimal hassle. Start off buying: (12) 5/16 x 18 x 1 1/2 bolts (18) 5/16 flat washers will need to grind a flat surface on one side to fit in the hole pattern. Important to still use I would think. Didn't want the bolt cutting into either the manifold or mounting surface of the throttle body. (6) 5/16 x 18 nylon lock nuts (6) 5/16 lock washers. On the bottom mounting holes I first placed the flat washer on the hole, ground surface towards the body, followed by the lock washer. Then holding the throttle body up off the manifold I squared the flat surface of the head on the bolt against the throttle body. With the flat portion touching the body push the threaded portion into the hole until the head clears the body and is in the cutout portion of the mounting surface. Now with both lower mounting holes filled, lower the body so that it hovers the manifold. Simultaneously thread the bolts into the manifold. Careful to not get ahead of yourself here. Uneven threading results in a bind on the other bolt. Once you get them down, time to give the top mounts a go. Starting from the manifold side install a flat washer onto a bolt and thread it thru. Pass thru the gasket and into the body mounting surface. Once the bolt starts to appear toss a flat washer on it. Again ground surface towards the body so the holes line up. As you raise the bolt up carefully start threading the nut. I went hand tight until I got the other one done. Once all four were in place I went to tightening them down in a staggered pattern. I used lock waashers on the bottoms to help with vibrations loosening the fittenings. On the tops there was no room to use both lock washers and nuts so I went with the nylon nuts to try keeping them tight during vibrations. I wish I could post pics to show what I am talking about. There are pics in my gallery though. Hope this helps someone else out. When I first realized the manufactures way didn't work. (using carb style mounting). I e-mailed them pics with a question of what now? I got no response so I decided to just try something. Should work just fine I imagine. One step closer to unleashing the beast.

Well I worked up a list of everythhing I would need for a TEC 3 unit. Was going to use this to control my distributorless ignition and and engine management for the stroker turbo. Man are they proud of this piece. $3300. On top of what I paid for the ITB's comes out over $5000 for fuel and computer. Got to pull back and rethink my goals. Would like to have some money left over to put else where in the car. Anybody out there get cuts from these guys? Or another system that is as easy to reprogram as mods change? May have to stick to stroker and put off my plans for the turbine.

Brad, While I was in Iraq, I gave a shopping list to the wife and then stayed on her *** until it was finished. She got it from a friend of mine in Okinawa. She was there visiting family while I was gone. I have no need of my old unit. I believe it was a trust piece. It is in the classifieds. Not nearly as cool when compared to the tako-ashi piece. next I want to get it Jet Hot coated.

It probably will not help any but I printed out the instructions that where posted. With the help of the Little Lady I can post an English translation. Give me a couple days to get it done and figure out how to post it here.

Ok, clears it up for me. Thanks. Going to be looking for a way to lower my compression ratio. Moving to a P90 head and possible 2mm metal headgasket.

Posted some pics in my gallery.

Sorry if I came across broken and unclear. I am building a 3.1 with aluminium pistons. I remeber reading somewhere that L28's produce some pretty hot temps. So I figured with everything apart I'd have the pistons ceramic coated. When I pick them up the comment is made that these puppies are good for turbo, nitro or supercharging. I would have never thought of using aluminium pistons in a turbo motor. But if this is sound advice I will be doing it. Looking for someone who has done this or understands more about this than I do. Are aluminium pistons safe in a turbo application?

Finally got my pistons and rods balanced and fitted together. Got the tops of the pistons ceramic coated. I figured cheap insurance if nothing else. My machinists is telling me that these will now be suitable for nitros, turbo or supercharging. I know generally stock turbo pistons or forged aftermarket pistons are recommended here on this site. Is this guy setting me up for a return customer after my engine goes to crap cause I added a turbo set up? Does anyone have experience with running cast aluminium pistons in a turbo motor? To me sounds bad but this place has alot of racing history. Looking for thoughts, comments..

Picked up a new turbine exhaust manifold with external wastegate flange. it is an equal length runner unit. Much lighter than my last unit and I bet it performs even better as well. Plan to bolt up my TD-07 soon. Plan on posting some pics as soon as I am able to post attachments.