greenmonster80

I tooked thru some old posts and came up short. Was hoping that someone else has gone thru this recently and can shed some light. I have a new set of 9.5JJ 14" watanabes. I am looking to get a set of BF goodrich 245/50/14 for them. Main problem is for my 12JJ rears. Currently they have 265/50/14 rubber on them and they are way too narrow. I was hoping to find something more along the lines of 295 or more to fit them. I know it is hard to find vintage tire sizes here stateside but really in a jam. Would like to find larger sizes in the BF goodrich series as they really compliment the driveability of the car without being too sticky. Thanks in advance...

Thanks for all the replies. I took the car out for another test run today. Doing the engine brake tests I found that I do not have 1st or 4th. Also reverse is not engaging. I am starting to think that the sunshell is the problem. That is if I am ready the above posts correctly. If someone could verify my thoughts or continue to point me in the right direction.

I cannot imagine spending $3,000 on a valve cover. If the head was attached to it maybe... http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n43776747

Surfing the auction pages tonight I found this. http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g46656000 For those who are hindered by the language it is an 85mm crank. A little out of my price range for a, not needed but wanted purchase. Can only imagine the torque that can be generated thru this guy. Bump that 3.1 to what 3.3 or more...

If going for the torque factor wouldn't it be better to use something longer than the L24 rod? I know it is common place but there are better options out there....

It could also be a torrington bearing. Does it increase with the engine rpm or with the gear changes? I will have to go back thru the manual to find where this torrington bearing is...The sun shell looked good. It had the casting numbers from the replacement version used later by chevy and not the earlier version that split apart at the weld. The sounds starts to dissapate with engine speed increasing. Can still here it but at lower speeds you can really notice it. Not a grinding dry sound but something is not right. I have the same transmission in my Suburban and never heard this before. I am really leaning towards the oil pump but then again drive is working so hesitant to wrench it out of there again. If I do not have 1st gear then it is definitly a sun shell right? ♥

In reverse it acts as neutral. 1st gear braking? How to make sure of that. I replaced all the seals and soft pads inside the case. There is also a rubbing sound that is going on. Almost sounds as if it is coming from the oil pump. If I were to guess the vanes inside the oil pump. I am baffled. I have done a couple of these transmissions thru the years as friends needed help and this one has got me stumped...

For a turbo motor I would use the money else where. For a N/A motor I love it.

Pretty self explainatory. Reverse not even engaging. Tore down the tranny and replaced the clutches and reverse piston seals. Still I got nothing. Sunshell looked good. Not cracked or broken. Usually that part goes bad. With the tranny on the ground apply air to the system and the reverse piston engages. Installed I got no reverse. Tranny is a stock 99 model so it is better than the earlier versions. Does anybody know what I missed. I am going to remove the valve body again to make sure nothing is clogged but forward gears are working fine. Really fustrated at this point. $400 dollars in parts and 2 weeks of wrenching and still no reverse.

Here is a similar setup. Pics show that it can be done with a traditional tripple intake manifold. http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e61149306 Pretty cool indeed

Could this whole thread be moved to the suspension, chasis area?

I was hoping that dodge put a 5.7 hemi in the R/T model. No luck still a V6. Just a tiny bit bigger than the base model.

What skyline are you putting this together for? I built a 3.1 for my KGC10 cause that was all I could fit into it at the time. I am hoping to be able to squeeze a turbine setup in there someday though. I really like the L6 with ITB's. There is a company in AUS that makes them. Forget the link but I almost bought them before I found Redline here in SoCal. F54 block with the N42 head is a good combination. You will be able to get alot from it down there where quality gas is still available.

I can confirm that statement. My toy didn't look that bad until it got sandblasted. I should have just bought the $20,000 car from the historic dealer. At least I could still be driving it and would not have cost any more money than I have already spent in restoring mine..

Suppose we could get an update as to how this is working out? This winter I hope to help a friend put his FJ into his nissan...

To be on the safe side personally I would go 88mm. Others on this board would call me chicken as there are documented motors that are boosted 3.1's. But if you are already questioning before building, go ahead and play it safe. Once committed to pistons and boring, worries will only intensify. Especially once it is on the road or dyno tuning..

TonyD, I know what you mean as too the type 2 boxes. They are thicker and just look better in my opinion. The misses always rolls her eyes when I am on yahoojp looking for the olderr stuff. This 80degree job is suppose to be kakimoto's 0-400 fighter. Worried it might be too much for the hakosuka though. But for the price I could always have it ground down to something more streetable.

I am not sure a stock KA piston would stand up too that abuse for very long.

TonyD. I remember years ago when those HKS ITB's where for sale. Forget who the seller was but he wouldn't sell them to me until he heard," No" from you. I figured fat chance that will happen, so I moved on. So far I am pleased with my set from redline. A few small hiccups along the way but nothing that would keep me from recommeding them to someone else. Curious to hear wht you think about the 80degree Kakimoto cam. Also I have a type 2 HKS surge tank in my photo gallery. Blue in color. If you are interested let me know. I didn't realize you were in need of one.

Well I took some time off to get some family stuff done. Finally got around to installing the Kameari timing kit and looking at getting a Kakimoto 80 degree camshaft. Anybody know how to convert the degree cam specs to our lift/duration method?

Here is the link for the escort pistons I used. The combo I used it described in the 3rd piston option. L14 rods with LD crank for the NA motor. Pin height is 29.5 and uses the standard 21mm pin. http://www.escort-jp.com/ I do not remember off hand what I paid for the pistons but it wasn't that bad...

Small world. I was doing the same thing today. I went to the hobby shop on base to do mine. This way I don't have a bunch of crap to clean up in my garage. Your porting on the intake side is pretty smooth looking. Nice job..

Mike rods came from a L14 motor. Pistons are from escort. not ford. Pin height I am not sure right now. Could find the page link and forward you if you are that inteested...

The link is not loading...If I can get it to cooperate I can help out on translating...Will try tomorrow

Bore it out to 88mm. You will be pleasantly surprised to see that Nissan blocks hold out much better than the SB chevy stuff your accustommed too. Also if you are able to, spend a little more money on rods. 240z rods are still short to take full advantage of te depth of a LD crank. I used 138mm rods also from a nissan motor to build my stroker.