greenmonster80

I have yet to purchase my own but if I remember correctly it comes as a two piece. Tensioner and a lower sprocket that takes the place of the stock oil tensioner. Chain and adjustable cam sprockets are extra...

From what I have read the stock upper manifold flows about as well as one could need. Just doesn't look as bad ass as forward facing plenum's. I want to motor to still appear as a moderate Rb20. The turbine set up will give it away a bit. However no one will be able to see it as a stroker with cams and injectors. A good tune will really make this a low budget, reliable powerhouse.

Kameari timing set is the only one that comes to mind. I will be purchasing some for myself and other board members during my trip this month. Around $500 for the complete set though. Expensive but very nice. To bad no USA company has something similar. My motor would be ready to run if I had one already..

Well decided against using junkyard parts for the cams. Looking to install some HKS or Tomei might as well get the adjustable sprockets as well. Also I recently purchased a used HKS cast amnifold with a T04 turbine and HKS wastegate. I will have the turbine rebuilt just because it is a used item and better safe then sorry. Manifold has a small crack easy to repair. Got them for under $300. Pretty happy with that. Motor is completely assembled. Looks like I will need a water pump, oil pump, bearings and gaskets and replace 2 water lines that have been cut. Going to dive in the junkyard for a cefiro turbo boot and cross over pipe. This will let me add an atmospheric blowoff valve instead of the recirculating skyline version. Plus it will get rid of some vaccum lines as well. Here is the link for the turbine set up if anyone is interested. Gotta love yahoo Japan... http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r28771458

Ok so the Rb26 cams bolt in but I have learned a few more mods are required to make this work. Instead I am thinking of installing the Rb20de cams. If I remember correctly they are just a bit bigger versus the turbo models. Adjust the timing and I should be good. I have almost completed re-assy of the motor to make sure I am not missing anything. I have a pretty good list so far that I will knock out during my upcoming visit to Okinawa. Anybody know someone who has tried the Rb20de cams? Curious to hear if they are worth the trouble. Boosted Rb20's are fun to begin with so I am not looking to spend alot for aftermarket cams. Just something a little bit more with low hassle. The Rb20de cams are easy to get.

A friend of mine installed one on his car when he was rebuilding the motor. Seems happy with it. His is not a daily driver though. One thing is it is noticeably larger than the stock pump so if you do not already have an electric fan that may be another cost..

Been looking at some sites our Aussie members post. Crow cams offers a 518/282 cam power band between 3500 and 7000. Looks interesting and the other being Tighe Cams with an offering of 514 / 304...Any thoughts or comments on these....Maybe regrind my cam to some of these specs?

Big end power is what I want...Nothing like revvs flowing free but how much is too much. My drive to work is only 15 miles round trip. MPG and freeway friendly is not a concern. Reliablity and longevity are more of a concern..Schneider's site is down and I will have to recheck Isky site...Isky jumps from 495 to 530. So I will start looking for something around 500-510 lift.....

.560/.560. Duration(In/Ex): 300/300. Characteristics: Excellent road race power, 4000-8500 RPM. Is the stage 5...I am running a LD crank. Granted the whole rotating assy was balanced with a BHJ damper and lightweight flywheel..8500 rpm's...How concerned do I need to be at the dreaded snapping crankshaft...Going to be more of a street car than a track racer....

I side with Olie...Falcon...If you are not dead set on another z....Want something cool, low price and easy to drive...Thats a falcon...My younger brother got a 61 2 dr for under $1000. Pretty good shape. Alot of the mustang drivetrain still works as well. Some Aussie members might be able to help with the better head from down there. Triple carb setup. Pretty pricey here if you can find one.

Ok so I went back and re-read ZBARON's n/a 3.1L Head & Camshaft no short cuts thread. I really appreciate the replies in there from Dave240Z, Dan Baldwin and Jmortensen. I have also read posts from Brian510 and Zeiss150. I am pretty sold on the MSA stage 4 cam. 495/290. Other combinations I have read about range from 500/290 from Sunbelt thru 487/276 from Robello. The MSA is smack in the middle so I figure a good starting point. Anybody had one and are willing to share thoughts? Naviathan...Why are you running a stage 2 cam? You signature implies a pretty mean motor...

Turbostreak...Sounds good. However I only went to public schools and decided against college in favor of enlisting. But if you tell me this is going to help you make my car faster I am happy for you and hope the plenum is a simple enough fix...

Without stirring up a complete sh*t storm I am in need of some assistance. Prefferably from the 3.1 guys or simply anyone who understands cams. I am cam retarded. I have the head. Ports are huge, chanmbers have been smoothed out as well. The intake and exhaust valves are undercut and oversized as well, bigger than N42 valves. I have the following specs already from the build sheet. Valve spring Assembly installed height 1.600 seat pressure 100 open pressure 240 open height 1.100 coil bind 1.015 seal/retainer .550 There is also a note reading no more lift than .520" Granted all the above means nothing if I change it out. I am looking for a cam that really puts out some power. I have flat top pistons and a big triple set up. Headgasket I have not purchased yet so it is another variable. 91 octane is all I can find in my area. Please send something my way to help me out...Thanks

Well I have determined there is a bunch of crap on the internet concerning Hybrid RB builds. Does anybody know of and engine calculator that I could plug RB parts into to get for sure numbers. I am now looking to go no bigger than 81mm for bore size. Also got some N1 cams on the way. When I pick up the block today from being cleaned I will drop off the head to be cleaned. Next bit of business will be measuring the main bearing area on both the crank and block. Any ideas what they should be...

ChefTRD if you can find a piston to use as a reference much thanks. I have some GTR pistons somewhere. Thinking of using them as a guide only in 81mm size. CP will be where I get the pistons. Price is to good to pass up...

Ok So I worked out a deal for a fulle built N42 head. Large intake and exhaust valves, eyebrowed, ported and polished. Chambers have been worked and it comes with a build sheet to answer any questions. When I get back from my trip to Japan I will drag my car from the body shop and look out. Here comes trouble..All after proper clutch and motor break in naturally...But after that look out. This HAKOSUKA is meant to be driven...

Cylinder walls cracking are bad. I am pretty sure the bottom end will be ok it will be all GTR parts. Maybe I will look at 81m pistons instead. Speaking of pistons this is frustrating. Ausie webpages talk about the 4agze pistons being 82mm. After ChefTRD's post I look at Hatchi pages. They state pistons are 81mm. WTF..Looks like I will go CP and forget about it...

Well to get the 2.2 or 2.4 the bore must be increased to 82mm. Tomei sells the pistons...Big money though. Their website states as well if you want to go to the 2.4 the 2.6 crank and rods are necessary. Leads me to believe that the 2.4 is safe enough. Tomei is about as well respected as they come..But I understand the concern...Got the block stripped down this afternoon. Will be taking it n to be clean tomorrow...

SuperDan , The website you posted is now in my favorites. Awesome link. Thanks..

Z Cars Rule. I have never heard of the rob bolts interferring. Tuesday I should have the crank and rods in. I will attach the rb20 pistons and do a quick spin of the assy to see how much and where it hits. Good info...You are right about the Rb strength. I started looking into the Rb24 only because I have had pretty good luck so far getting what I need for reasonable prices...Let me know who you go thru for your overbore headgasket...

Curious to see if a RB25det headgasket would work on a Rb20det bored to 82mm. I am pretty sure the stock bore on the 25det in 85mm. Is 3 mm too much gap? Probably going to have to use a custom job. Anyway got the bottom end of the Rb20 dissassembled. Dan was right. The timing gear was not wanting to be removed easily. Had to drill and tap it to get a steering whell puller attached. Still was a bastard to crank off. Monday I have an appoitment at a machine shop to hot tank the block. Only going to set me back $35. So far this is going pretty smoothly...

You have the single groove as well... Awesome...I have to thank LockJaw for the BHJ. He told me about them and when I stopped at his house he was able to show it off to me. I was hooked called Dave at rebello an ordered mine with the trigger wheel attached. Good idea to take the block for crank measure but why not just unbolt the crank? Would be easier to carry for sure...

Sorry dude...Mine fit snug right out of the box. My crank had previously been polished and balanced maybe the machine shop had cleaned it up a little allowing it to fit before the rotating assy balance...