greenmonster80

Brian, Curious to hear who is getting the KGC10. Let me know, if the buyer is comfortable with that. As for your decision...I like the idea of a track built R32. As long as not drag racing...The RB into the KGC110 is fairly common place so it would nice without doing to much quess work. Not to mention more modern. Besides the younger crowd at the car shows would really be giddy over a 3.1 Rb...

If I could get my hands on a nice 240sx I would definitely swap it over to RHD. I like it more than LHD. But I am more than a little bias. I have had at least 1 RHD car in the garage since 1997..

There is nothing illegal or wrong with a RHD car. I got asked that all the time when I drove my car. Now there may be some backward ass state that will hassle you. I registered mine in AL and that is about as good ole boy country as you can get...

I meant I could get you an oil pan if needed. The L20 should fit the L28 just remember to have the new oil pick up spot drilled out. Easy fix at any machine shop...

If the L20A doesn't work out for some reason let me know and I can get you one. However I cannot think of why it won't. I applaud you for keeping the L gata series in the car. Turbo L6's are alot of fun and parts are easy to come across...Not to mention easy to wrench on...and wallet friendly....Do you by chance have the japanese paperwork for the car?

Just a thought but how about using the L20A crank and rods in the L28 block. Custom pistons would probably be needed. Would be able to rev higher and be unique for a turbo motor. If you think you may want to go twin turbo on the L6 let me know I have a twin manifold at my other garage. LHD cars are too difficult for the twins....

Now I am a litle confused on the wheels. When I was putting mine together the engine management system specified an electromotive style trrigger wheel. My bad if I got something wrong here. First time with the trigger wheel setup and still learning...

Went out to the garage and double checked mine. It has similar bolts except that they are flatten on the tops. Don't know if Rebello shaved them or they can be had like that. Allen heads are easy enough to remove and swap out for something with less deck height.

The pans may be interchangeable. Do not remember for sure. As for the pickups. The bottom of the L28 blocks have 2 flat spots for the oil pick up. Drill out the same spot as the L20A. This way you can use the L20a's pickup and with any luck the oil pan. Also do not forget to block off the old pick up spot with a plate. Have done this before with a hand drill but would reccommend taking it to a machine shop just in case...My project has a modified pickup as I had one laying around already. However my buddies engine required the drill out method. Drilling it out is the better way to go...

An old pic I know but mine worked out well. Single groove also from Dave. I had an eletromotive style trigger wheel attached to mine. Wonder if that be the difference? http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7872&cat=500&ppuser=9707

WOW, I am super jealous. Always wanted to go there and see things for myself. I love Japan and always thought it would be neat to compare peoples and culture since Mongolians, Japanese, Koreans and Okinawans share the same blood line...

Exactly. Part of the misinformation out there. No one ever intentionally puts it there I am sure.. but measurements are easy to double check...My motor will be short of 2.4 However it will still be nice. Not to mention pack way more punch than the RB20...

I got the insurance for the car while being work on for the "just in case" piece of mind. All the paperwork had the info for where the car was located and who was doing it. Not a fly-by-night place or some dude in his garage. High quality restore shop. Lots of business with dealerships and hot-rodders so I figured no problem and it wasn't for the first 18 months. I had renewed this policy several times as needed to maintain coverage and always filled out the duplicate paperwork they continued to send me. I hope this thread lives forever and anybody who googles GEICO reads it. They suck..

I have had geico for several years and had no complaints until now. They have insured my hakosuka sice it got here. One good reason to stick with them. However it has been undergoing a full body restore for some time (2 yrs). Today in the mail I receive a letter stating that they are revoking my policy at the expiration date because I do not have possession of the car. Mine you that when I first decided to dedicate the car to the body shop I called them to inform them about my decision. In return they sent me several forms to fill out as to who was doing the work, what kind of work, estimated cost of work and where the work was being conducted. All of which I filled out and did in honestly. This way I maintain comprehensive converage. At less than $3.00 for 6 months at a time. Better safe than sorry right? Long story short after a couple heated telephone conversations they break down and say that when I take possession of the car again they will look into renewing my policy....I feel slighted and this is bull...Anybody dealt with something similar regardless of company? Curious to hear the outcome. Safe to say that I will be moving on to another company once my other vehicle's policy comes to renewal....

I got my studs from the mom/pop auto parts store. Definitely worked out great....Highly reccommended

How about the N42 valves? They are larger than the E88 / E31 stuff...Assuming that you are still using a L24 head...

Are you going to bring the cage thru the firewall ?

The L20A was a Z engineas well. Not as plentiful in our area but the mother land was full of them. I have found nothing to tell me differ so use the standard L6 settings.

Thanks for the link will have to sit down at work and plug everything in to see where I will stand. The build will go relatively slowly as I still do not have a car to put it in yet. However I continue to find good deals on upgrade parts so I snag them when I can. This whole project is something to keep my mind busy until my body work on my other car is finished....Getting real close and the anxiety is killing me so I stew over the RB motor instead ....

So While I was on family vacation I was able to get my hands on a few parts for the motor build. Added a N1 oil pump and water pump. New bearings and seals with gaskets. HKS cast manifold with external wastegate and T04 turbine. Turbine has a polished intake housing. Further down the list is going to be the 80.5mm pistons from CP, Metal headgasket and cams. After 4 round trip tickets to Okinawa and other expenses from being there I need to recoup some money....

I agrre with TonyD. Just convert to a RHD. Have a nice setup that isn't patched together. Looks bad ass and sets the car apart even more. BTW I was at RS 2 days ago. They have really changed over the years. No sports cars what so ever....

So at the local book box I find for the first time the Lightning Magazine. They feature alot of USA cars. I mean Japanese cars in the USA. Found both issues. In one is Ron Carter's toys and Brian's Hakosuka and the other issue is Vildini's 240z. The more I see that car the more I want it...Absolutely killer. Best I have seen to date...Anyways wanted to congrat again our fellow members for making good use of the site by making cars they enjoy and others dream about...

Everything one should need to do a RHD conversion. Wonder if the wheels are watanabes or the pansports? If I had a 240z that I was doing work on I would get it to do the RHD...

Came across this site today. Pretty interesting stuff. May purchase the headgasket from them. Possibly a timing belt as well. Just thought I would put it up in case someone else is interested...https://www.rhdjapan.com

Measure it. Turbo and 2+2's should be 240mm across...