violacleff
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Posts posted by violacleff
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He won't even return my calls now. I cant find his name in the city he said he lived in. I do have the overnight receipt and a witness who brought me there. The thing is he told me he had already sent my money in the mail before I sent the part out so he intended on ripping me off from the get go. I'm going to keep looking for him. I'm out of work right now so I got plenty of time.
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Well thanks for the help. Actually his name is Rick Castellon. That is the name he gave me and I found his name and pic on the msa webpage. As far as time for the transaction he told me that he had dropped the money in the mail the same day that I mailed the dizzy. Then he called 3 days later and said he hadn't. When I called him back he said he would come drop it off at my house and never showed or called. I called him again and he never returned my call. That was 2 weeks ago btw and we live in the same state. Here is his pic. Seller/buyer beware
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Like I said said i'm willing to spend the time and take him to court just to make him accountable. BTW his name is Rick Castellano if anyone knows him. He told me he won modified 260z class at MSA but I can't identify him for sure on the picture. I'm going to zcar as well. Someone must know him there.
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I have the overnight reciept that I mailed it to him. He was one of the winners at MSA this year. I looked at the pic trying to identify him. I'm wondering if I should post up on zcar.com to see if anyone knows him.
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So I posted up my distributor on a few websites. I got a call a few weeks ago from a fellow socal z'er who tells me he's stranded in SD and cant get the part nowhere and would like to buy mine. I felt sorry for the guy so I agreed to overnight the part to him if he promised to drop the money order in the mail the same day. He agreed. I sent the part part to him and wait. Of coure, no check comes in the mail and he calls me a few days later to tell me that he didn't need it after all but he would drive by and give me the money anyway. Well he never showed up to give me the money nor did he mail it to me. Its only $93 but I hate being taken advantage of. Problem is I only have the guys first and last name and his cell phone number but no address for him. How would I go about taking him to small claims court?
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Youre right stony, I was wrong. I misread the info. It was a specific modification that had to be done with the rb26 whereas everthing from the z31 to the rb25 was bolt in. My mistake
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As far as wiring goes, it ought to be similar with both if you're using a stand alone right? I'm assuming noone is using stock ecu with this goal as I mentioned in the o.g. post
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I suppose you both may have missed what I was really going for in this post, but to clarify, I really don't care about "whats cooler to say I have" or "what looks cooler under the hood." I would have posted on a honda forum to find that out. Also quoc, I already mentioned the tranny in my post. As far as the oil pan goes, I took that info from stony's sticky who said quote "if you go rb25 you do not need to change the oil pan." This might be old misinformation that I have not yet caught up on. This post was merely for a hp to dollar analysis up to 450-500 rwhp. BTW, I have read all rb posts on this site.
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So I ran across this link on the web http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB9&Number=67789925 and I got to wondering, if one is shooting for 450-500 rwhp, would the uprades necessary to reach this on an rb25 exceed what it takes to get there on an rb26 after purchasing a front clip? Here's what I can come up with so far (lets assume for both these motors, motor mounts, Injectors, Stand alone ems, fuel pumps, and fmic)
RB26: Extra initial cost, Bigger turbos, extra 5 speed, z-31 oil pan, more expensive exhaust and intercooler plumbing.
RB 25: Bigger turbo, custom intake, aftermarket header, Bigger Turbo, ext wg.
Did I miss anything here (major)
Assuming the info on the site is reliable, both cars retain stock head and block. But if you want, we can do arp head studs on the rb25 just to play it safe.
For those who are more knowledgeable on the price this stuff, I'm wondering which would end up cheaper, would there be a large price gap between the two? I don't really care about future upgrage potential. Just the cost to get to where I mentioned above.
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T5 holding 450hp? Your kidding right? and who treats there tranny well with an engine that powerful? As far as the 7m goes, why does everyone mention the HG? Whats so hard about sticking in a metal one, and that problem's solved? Does anyone know what a 1jz can do on stock block? I think that would be the largest deciding factor for me if money is an issue. The 7m is def. up to the task. If the 1jz is, I think that would be the motor to go with. Again, I'd say consider which motor has the most stout tranny option as well if you plan on driving hard. This could throw another 2.5k wrench in your budget, especially if you go L.
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I have noticed that few guys making 450hp+ on an L motor have used the E88 head, including the Veil MotorsportZ who claims 500hp. Most seem to have been built by sunbelt from my observation. Is there some trick to making this head perform better that most don't know? I ask because I usually don't hear anyone suggesting the E88 head to those who are seeking big hp numbers. BTW I'm curious as to which intake and exhaust manifold you will be using.
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What is the going price for a 1jz? I'm not positive that an rb25 can do 450 reliably for that long from what i've read on stock block. How strong is the 1jz? I would personally go Rb25 because I like how that motor looks in engine bay over a 7m, and by now a lot of people have done it and documented it. Has anyone even done 1jz yet? From what I've seen though, the 7m seems to have an extremely stout bottom end stock block. Although I love the L motor, it has the weakest of manual tranny options which makes me wish I had gone Rb25. In addition, I've only heard of 3-4 people on this site who have even achieved 450whp in contrast to the many who have achieved it with the other setups. Just my .02
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I know what my next mod's gonna be!
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oh crap mods could you move this to drivetrain, I didn't mean to post it here.
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Well my used tranny has bitten the dust just short of 200 miles on it, and it has me thinking of what my options are. I have read all of the posts on trannies, but still have some questions for my specific application.
I drive this car daily and don't expect it to ride super nice. I plan on running between 15-18 psi on the street and 21-25 at the track. I realize that drag racing will take its toll on the tranny. That being said... I have an extra 280zxna 5speed in my garage, but I'm thinking about the T-5 and the 240sx tranny swap. I'm trying to figure out which trans setup will make more sense for cost and durability factor in a high 11's car.
The 240sx tranny is cheap in jy's at about $75-100. If I learned how to swap the tranny by myself, I could save on the labor and wouldn't have to spend $1500-2k at a time on the tranny (tremek/g-force), however I don't want to do it every other week. Will this tranny even hold this kind of torque? And for how long? 5-6 months at a time would be cool with me.
The T-5 is another option. From what I read, its not good for dragging, nor is the WC. I plan on using DR's and won't be getting complete traction. Is it the lauch that kills it? I heard using an aftermarket shifter would save it from destruction due to fast shifts. Another problem is that I hear the t-5's are becoming more harder to find as opposed to the nissan tranny. Also if I went T-5 would I have to use a different clutch? I already have an ACT 6 puck and would hate to have to invest in another one to suit the T-5 which is why I'm hoping for a nissan solution.
Basically to sum it up if I'm going to be going through trannies often what would be a more cost effective solution? Should I throw my NAzx tranny in, ride on low boost and save up for a G-force? I definitely wouldn't want to buy one of those more than once a year.
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I had a similar setup with a 3.0l block with su's, and I'd have to say no. Perhaps a stroker setup or better yet a turbo (which I eventually went to) would give you what you need.
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Like Satan knocking on your door:icon54:. Actually like a fast metalic knock.
Without a wideband there isn't a sure way to know if you are lean but I know I can run down up to 14:1 and not have det and have done it quite a few times messing with the AIC.
Not trying to hijack this thread, if this is true, what purpose would an a/f gauge or egt gauge serve? I'm still pretty new to EFI tuning. I was under the impression that a wideband is more accurate for fine tuning, therefore you would not want to tune on the edge with first two. Is this correct or am I way off?
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Sorry I don't have an answer, but since this is my first turbo motor, I was curious, what does detonation sound like? Just so I can be aware
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Yeah I was hoping to chat with more of you but missed most of you probably, including you Jon, haha, I felt sorry for this guy who was trying to compete in the OEM, as I listened to this purist ripping on all the parts that weren't factory, and the the owner trying to defend factory water lines! lol
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Ok so I ran into two guys from here, Dan Juday and Owen. I was trying to see who's car I would recognize, but they honestly look different on the street then on the net. I thought it was a great show and shine after the rain stopped that is. Highlight of the day was when some kid comes up to me, looks at my motor and says "wow that setup should be good for about 240hp! (check my mod sig if you don't think thats funny) I have an NA that dynoed 193hp to the wheels with a stock block!" I just smiled at him and said "193hp with stock block huh? thats pretty impressive. I haven't dynoed yet but hopefully I can get 240 or so out of this motor." Anyways here's me with my '73
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I bought mine from roadrace engineering. They are just as good as quality as turbohoses.com. I bought my 45 deg from turbohoses. They do give you a small discount if you tell them you have a z car. Like 20% or something. They also sell them cheap on ebay. Hose tecniques is another company that makes them.
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Sounds like a good scare tactic to me.
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I have always thought that setting off a smoke pellet inside the car with all the windows closed and walk around and see where the smoke is coming out of the holes and gaslets in the car' date=' and seal them up.
Tim[/quote']
Tim my friend suggested this, and I think I'm actually going to try it. Have you seen the MSA prices for weatherstrip? I'm considering having AC installed and forgetting about chasing fumes. I do want to compete on the track but this car is my daily driver, and I can't go to work reeking with fumes. Anyone know how much power/quarter mile time this would cause me? BTW josh, I'll be at MSA. You should be able to smell me from a mile away after the 30 min trip in the car. Actually, it will be early in the morning so I should be able to keep my windows up on the way there.
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Well there you go folks. All new weatherstripping and his scar still stinks. It seems like there's no one solution. I'm going to change my weatherstripping in the tailights and hatch this week. If that doesn't work, I'm going to be pissed.
Greddy gauge problem (am I at a loss?)
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
Ok so my friend gave me a few greddy warning gauges for boost, egt, and oil/water temp. Prob is he lost the wire that hooks up to the back of the gauge and then to the module. The rest of the harness I have though. I called greddy and they don't sell the part seperately. Also I went to an electronics store to see if they sold anything that would fit and the dont. Is there anyway that I could solder straight to the gauge and the module and make it work? Or are these a total loss?